Filtrer par genre
- 146 - Episode 118: 24 Karat Weekend, Diamond Sanctions, John Kennedy
The hosts discuss a Ukrainian designer's account of war in her country, the issues with Russian diamond sanctions, and salute retiring Jewelers' Security Alliance president John Kennedy.Presenting sponsor: De Beers (institute.debeers.com)Sponsor: Nivoda (nivoda.com/jdpodcast)
Wed, 27 Mar 2024 - 22min - 145 - Episode 117: Guest Jean-Claude Biver
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) speak with Jean-Claude Biver, president of JC Biver and a living legend of the watch world. He regales the hosts on his introduction to the industry 50 years ago; his time at Audemars Piguet; how he revived the historic brand Blancpain; his time running Hublot; and how he brought pizazz to Omega with help from Cindy Crawford and James Bond. He also reflects on how all those experiences are shaping what he and his son are doing at his new venture, the luxury watch brand, JC Biver.Presenting sponsor: De Beers (institute.debeers.com)Sponsor: Nivoda (nivoda.com/jdpodcast)
Wed, 13 Mar 2024 - 24min - 144 - Episode 116: Russian Diamond Sanctions, Tucson News, and an Instagram Suspension
Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky talk about Russian diamond sanctions, news from Tucson, and a blogger’s mysterious Instagram suspension.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 28 Feb 2024 - 25min - 143 - Episode 115: Guest Vanessa Fernández
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Vanessa Fernández, designer, bench jeweler, and owner of Vanessa Fernández Studio.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 14 Feb 2024 - 29min - 142 - Episode 114: Platinum Guild Press Trip, Lab-Grown Diamond Detection, Tucson Preview
Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky talk about a Platinum Guild press trip to Miami, the increasing need for lab-grown diamond detection tools and protocol, and what’s in store at the Tucson gem shows.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 31 Jan 2024 - 22min - 141 - Episode 113: Guest Stanley Zale
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Stanley Zale, Principal Consultant at Hill & Company and grandson of Zale Corporation founder M.B. Zale.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 17 Jan 2024 - 24min - 140 - Episode 112: Predictions for 2024
Today, Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky talk about 2024 predictions, Russian diamond sanctions, and the year in the watch world.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 03 Jan 2024 - 24min - 139 - Episode 111: Guest Tom Chatham
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Tom Chatham, chairman of the board of Chatham Created Gems. Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 20 Dec 2023 - 25min - 138 - Episode 110: NYC Jewelry Week Highlights, Traceability, Holiday Predictions
Victoria Gomelsky and Rob Bates discuss highlights from an event-packed NYC Jewelry Week. These include a jewelry collective working with artisanal gold miners in Peru, a panel of Indigenous designers channeling cultural traditions into their work, and a Stephanie Gottlieb (https://stephaniegottlieb.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAsburBhCIARIsAExmsu64qoATCN9QDQ9kD7e8-J12GvI7h-C0PgvAZWMkoWFVbJ5FlF2gdwoaAo5FEALw_wcB) partnership with De Beers spotlighting diamond provenance. Rob weighs in on whether the Black Friday boom will prove a bellwether for holiday sales then turns the conversation to WWF Switzerland’s annual report on sustainability in the watch and jewelry industry.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 06 Dec 2023 - 27min - 137 - Episode 109: Guest Olga Oleksenko
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates speak with Olga Oleksenko, founder of the Strong&Precious Art Foundation, which showcases Ukrainian jewelry art and design. Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 22 Nov 2023 - 25min - 136 - Episode 108: Istanbul Jewelry, WD Diamonds, and Sustainability in the Watch Industry
Today, Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky talk about Victoria’s trip to Istanbul, WD Diamonds, and the history of sustainability in the watch industry.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com (institute.debeers.com)
Wed, 08 Nov 2023 - 29min - 135 - Episode 107: Guest Edahn Golan
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates welcome Edahn Golan, diamond industry analyst as well as owner and manager of Edahn Golan Diamond Research and Data and managing partner of Tenoris.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 25 Oct 2023 - 25min - 134 - Episode 106: Hedda Schupak, Russian Diamond Sanctions, and Grand Seiko
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates pay tribute to former JCK editor Hedda Schupak, who passed away this month. An industry icon as well as a mentor to Victoria and Rob, Hedda steered the magazine successfully through major changes in the early 2000s and played a key role in the early days of its annual Las Vegas trade show. Rob updates listeners on the latest news in Russian diamond sanctions, and Victoria shares highlights from her recent trip to Japan to visit Grand Seiko (https://www.grand-seiko.com/us-en/)’s studio in the mountain town Shizukuishi.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com (institute.debeers.com)
Wed, 11 Oct 2023 - 32min - 133 - Episode 105: Guest Monica Stephenson
Victoria Gomelsky and Rob Bates interview Monica Stephenson, founder and president of ANZA Gems.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 27 Sep 2023 - 29min - 132 - Episode 104: Rolex & Bucherer, Audemars Piguet, Rob’s New Book
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates delve into hot topics from the world of luxury watches, starting with Rolex’s recent acquisition of Bucherer and its potential implications for retailers. Next the conversation turns to Audemars Piguet’s latest AP House. Finally, Rob shares some encouraging news about a flurry of brick-and-mortar retail openings this year and dishes on the newest installment in his Diamond District mystery book series.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 13 Sep 2023 - 26min - 131 - Episode 103: Guest Lorraine West
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates interview acclaimed designer New York designer Lorraine West, whose handcrafted contemporary fine jewelry has earned the admiration of Grammy winners and Hollywood A listers—not to mention Sotheby’s and De Beers. Lorraine recounts the early days of selling her designs on the street in Soho, the bold moves that helped launch her successful career and convinced a music icon to become an early supporter, the unexpected gift she still treasures, and the art of giving back.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 30 Aug 2023 - 29min - 130 - Episode 102: Barbie, Fall Fashion, Retail Rebirth & Hip-Hop
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates dive into the hottest trends ahead, from more Barbie-fueled obsession with pink to nostalgic necklaces. (Think Rubik’s Cubes, robots, and all things ’80s.) Equally newsworthy is the luxury world’s laser focus on bigger, better brick and mortar—a high-end land grab that belies the digital-first future predicted during the pandemic. Finally, some of the world’s most elite watch brands are tuning in to hip-hop, EDM, and both genres’ massive hype-building power.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 16 Aug 2023 - 28min - 129 - Episode 101: Guest Jeffrey Post
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates sit down with Jeffrey Post, research associate and curator emeritus, to hear where his love for minerology began. Jeffrey describes a visitor’s experience to the Smithsonian’s National Museum of Natural History as well as some of the stories attached to the gems he has encountered over the course of his 32 years as its curator of gems and minerals (including a once-in-a-lifetime chance to study the famous Hope and Wittelsbach Graff diamonds side-by-side).Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com
Wed, 02 Aug 2023 - 30min - 128 - Episode 100: a Custom Design, a Jewelry Conference, and a Podcast Milestone
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates discuss Victoria’s recent custom ring experience, the State of the Art Jewelry Summit, and commemorate the 100th episode of The Jewelry District.
Tue, 18 Jul 2023 - 25min - 127 - Episode 99: Guest Jeffery Bolling
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates sit down with Jeffery Bolling of Colorado-based Jeffery B. Jewelers about his journey from serving in the U.S. Army to selling diamonds to becoming Colorado’s only African American–owned fine diamond, full-service jeweler. Jeffery plays a vital role in the diamonds-do-good story through his commitment to sourcing diamonds responsibly from companies owned by Black Africans, selling stones cut by Black African cutters, and leveraging his position and expertise to encourage greater diversity in the jewelry industry.
Wed, 05 Jul 2023 - 29min - 126 - Episode 98: JCK Las Vegas Report, Lab-Grown Reset, Tracing DiamondsWed, 21 Jun 2023 - 28min
- 125 - Episode 97: Guest Jeffery Fowler
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates sit down with Jeffery Fowler, CEO of the influential watch website Hodinkee (https://www.hodinkee.com/) to learn how the company got its unusual name and to hear about the path that led him to it. Jeff also speculates on the reason mechanical watches inspire such lasting passion (they’re science projects wrapped in history projects wrapped in art projects), offers predictions for the booming pre-owned watch market, and explains why good retailers are the best brand ambassadors.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes00:50 Victoria Visits Botswana2:28 How Hodinkee Got its Name5:29 From Harvard to Hodinkee18:54 Consumers’ Love Affair with Watches27:31 In Praise of RetailersEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine; institute.debeers.comShow RecapVictoria Visits BotswanaJust back from a week in Botswana with De Beers, Victoria shares the highlights of an incredible journey that included a visit to the De Beers (http://www.debeers.com/) sorting facility, the jaw-dropping Jwaneng diamond mine, and Chobe National Park, where elephant herds still roam the savannah. She promises to recount more about her adventures in a future podcast.How Hodinkee Got its NameVictoria introduces Hodinkee CEO Jeffery Fowler, and Rob asks him to explain how one of the most influential voices in the watch world got its unusual name. Hodinky is the Czech word for “wristwatch,” Jeff explains. When company founder Ben Clymer launched his watch blog in 2008, he chose the word because it seemed unique enough to be memorable and quirky enough to spark curiosity. Double vowels were trending in the corporate world (Google, Goop, Yahoo), so he adjusted the spelling.Since then, Hodinkee has grown into a powerhouse with its own ecommerce platform and an award-winning magazine.From Harvard to HodinkeeJeff earned an undergraduate degree at Harvard and an MBA at INSEAD in France before joining LVMH (https://www.lvmh.com/), where he began his career as an assistant retail store manager for Louis Vuitton in London. From there, he moved to Tag Heuer (https://www.tagheuer.com/), then Cartier (http://www.cartier.com/), Tesla, and Farfetch, where he stayed spent six years overseeing businesses across North and South America before joining Hodinkee in 2022. He sums his career up as “an exciting, fun, adventure-filled journey.”In late 2021, Jeff was taking a break from his career to spend time with his wife and three young sons when he got a call from a recruiter about Hodinkee. He admired Ben Clymer as a pioneer in bringing the watch world online—and doing it in an approachable way that emphasized storytelling, curiosity, and wit. But he remembered it simply as a blog. He was surprised to learn that the company had moved far beyond its original mission, becoming the world’s first online-only authorized retailer of watches in 2017 and more recently expanding to pre-owned watches.Since joining as CEO,
Wed, 07 Jun 2023 - 29min - 124 - Episode 96: Tiffany’s New Flagship, AGS Conclave and A.I., JCK Las Vegas Preview
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates recap highlights from Tiffany & Co.’s star-studded party to mark the reopening of the Fifth Avenue flagship store, where a once homey vibe has been replaced by a sleek temple to luxury. Rob shares an update from AGS Conclave along with insights about the trending topic of ChatGPT and its potential for the industry. Finally, the two compare notes on which events they’re most excited to check out at JCK Las Vegas.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes01:45: Tiffany’s Night to Remember12:53: Smart Ways to Harness A.I.21:35: All Eyes on JCK Las VegasEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine; institute.debeers.comShow RecapA night to remember marks the dawn of a new era for Tiffany & Co.The fete for Tiffany & Co.’s reopened New York City flagship on April 27th was even flashier and splashier than expected, Victoria reports. Close to 1,200 guests turned up at the Landmark, while tourists thronged Fifth Avenue to catch a glimpse of A-listers like Blake Lively, Zoë Kravitz, and Mark Wahlberg on the red carpet.After more than three years in the works, the spectacular new flagship looks nothing like the Tiffany’s store of old, Victoria says. The Landmark is filled with light wood, glass, digital screens, custom artworks, a dramatic curvilinear staircase, and, of course, beautiful jewelry. Victoria’s first stop was the seventh floor, which houses gemstone masterpieces like Bird on a Rock broaches and the Patek Philippe salon. Nearly as awe-inspiring as the gems was the sheer amount of wealth of the guests in attendance, she says.The Fifth Avenue icon was long venerated as a democratic slice of Americana, Rob notes—a place where anyone could feel at home admiring the pieces on display. He wonders if the Landmark will be as welcoming. That depends on what kind of person you are, Victoria surmises. Sleek and grand, this indisputable temple to luxury may well intimidate certain shoppers. Then again, it’s bound to be a tourist attraction—and there are affordable items to be had, she notes. (The entry price for a silver Return to Tiffany bracelet is $250.) For those confident or curious enough to be undaunted by the glamor, Victoria says it’s well worth popping up to the seventh floor to admire the art, the odes to Tiffany windows, the digital Audrey Experience with a replica of Hepburn’s black Givenchy dress from Breakfast at Tiffany’s, and original notes from the Truman Capote novella that inspired the film.Want more detail? Read Victoria’s full report (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/cocktails-at-tiffanys/) on the party.A.I. update: smart ways to harness artificial intelligenceNext, Rob shares highlights from the recent American Gem Society Conclave, where he found himself socializing without fear of COVID for the first time in several years.Despite warning signs like inflation and bank failures—and waning from the boom of 2020 and 2021—jewelry businesses are holding up well based on the buzz at Conclave, Rob says. Traceability and lab-grown diamonds were much discussed,
Tue, 23 May 2023 - 29min - 123 - Episode 95: Guest Lawrence Hess
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) catch up with Lawrence Hess, executive director of The Plumb Club (https://plumbclub.com/), as the organization finalizes plans for JCK Las Vegas. Lawrence shares his memories of growing up the son of the late great designer Jose Hess and offers a succinct history of The Plumb Club. He also gives listeners a preview of the most intriguing—and encouraging—takeaways from the club’s latest research paper and consumer survey, to be shared at the upcoming JCK show.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.com (http://institute.debeers.com/)Show Notes00:52: Tiffany & Co.’s Landmark Event03:44: Carrying on the Hess Family Legacy05:07: Remembering Jose Hess08:20: Striking Out on His Own11:08: What’s in a Name?14:42: A Brief History of The Plumb Club18:09: The Future Looks Bright20:31: Three Trends to Watch24:22: Lab Grown Diamonds in Simple Terms25:52: Aligning with RJCEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/); institute.debeers.com (http://institute.debeers.com/)Show RecapTiffany & Co.’s Landmark EventVictoria shares highlights (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/cocktails-at-tiffanys/) from the Tiffany & Co. extravaganza that marked the Fifth Avenue flagship store’s reopening as the Landmark in April. It wasn’t just the beautiful space and the star-studded guest list that impressed her, but also the obvious wealth of the clientele. One guest sported a Tiffany Blue Dial Limited Edition Patek Phillipe Nautilus watch, which sells for $3 million on the secondary market.Carrying on a Family LegacyVictoria and Rob welcome guest Lawrence Hess, executive director of The Plumb Club (https://plumbclub.com/). Victoria notes that the New York City–based group is one of the industry’s most esteemed organizations, boasting a membership of distinguished manufacturers. Calling in from his office in Englewood, NJ, Lawrence says he is gearing up for JCK Las Vegas, where 50 Plumb Club members will exhibit in the group’s 75,000-square-foot pavilion.Lawrence is the son of iconic jewelry designer Jose Hess (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/jose-hess-pioneer-has-died/). Victoria asks Lawrence to share his memories of being raised in the business, thanks not just to Jose but also to stepmom Magdalena “Maggie” Hess, a designer in her own right.Jose instilled a deep love of the industry and its people in his children. “The two most important things to him were family and jewelry,” says Lawrence, who tagged along to work with his dad when he didn’t have school. He recalls his dad’s years as president of The Plumb Club, when early plans for the pavilion covered their dining room table while Jose fine-tuned them.Rob notes that Jose was renowned for his catchphrases, most famously strong like a bull. “That was his answer to everything, whether things were good or bad,” Lawrence remembers. Many of the designer’s observations are memorialized in The Beauty in All, a book Jose and Maggie co-wrote.Striking Out on His OwnAnother Jose Hess motto was that nothing should be handed to you.
Wed, 10 May 2023 - 28min - 122 - Episode 94: Tiffany’s Reopening, Watches and Wonders, Signet’s Investor Day
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates discuss the much-anticipated reopening of Tiffany & Co.’s iconic Fifth Avenue store, now called The Landmark. Victoria also reports on her recent trip to Geneva for Watches and Wonders, where traffic was brisk, the mood was upbeat, and Rolex wowed the crowds with unexpected splashes of color and whimsy. Rob updates listeners on what’s new at Signet Jewelers after attending a recent Investors’ Day at the New York Stock Exchange.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes00:49: Tiffany & Co. Reimagines its Famous Flagship05:30: Rob Heads to AGS Conclave to Gauge the State of the Industry07:10: Rolex Brightens a Busy Watches and Wonders Exhibition15:18: What’s New at Signet Jewelers Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine; institute.debeers.com Show Recap Tiffany Offers a Sneak Peek at its Reimagined FlagshipVictoria seldom flies across the country to attend a party, but she’s making an exception for the much-anticipated reopening of Tiffany & Co.’s Fifth Avenue flagship store on May 27th. After a three-year closure and a complete makeover, what will The Landmark—as it’s now called—look like? Rob remembers visiting the iconic store as a JCK mystery and being surprised to find it warmly welcoming. It was almost homey in those days, he says. Victoria predicts the new iteration will be decidedly sleeker and more luxe since the brand’s target demographic is now considerably more affluent. “There’s a parallel story about the importance of brick-and-mortar,” Victoria observes. When she interviewed Tiffany CEO Anthony Ledru recently, he called The Landmark “the heart and soul of Tiffany.” The company is putting a major focus on its physical stores, expanding and renovating flagships in Seoul, Sao Paolo, and other parts of the world, she adds. When the pandemic reached its zenith, it looked like the future might be entirely virtual and digital, but “that’s not the case at all,” Victoria says. “The importance of brick and mortar is more apparent than ever.” Rob to Moderate Conclave PanelVictoria’s not the only one with travel plans. In early May Rob will head to Louisville, Kentucky, for the American Gem Society’s Conclave event, where he’ll moderate an expert panel on how the industry is faring in 2023 and gauge the outlook for the future. Victoria is eager to hear his takeaways. She predicts JCK’s audience will be too. “It’s been a confusing year, with the lingering specter of recession,” she points out. “People are waiting for some guidance.” Rolex Brightens a Busy Watches and WondersThe conversation shifts to Victoria’s recent trip to Switzerland for Watches and Wonders in Geneva. This year’s bustling conference was a far cry from the quiet show of 2022,
Tue, 25 Apr 2023 - 24min - 121 - Episode 93: Guests Feriel Zerouki and Mahiar Borhanjoo
You'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with two guests who are a married couple: Feriel Zerouki, Senior Vice President of Corporate Affairs at De Beers Group, and Mahiar Borhanjoo, CEO of UNI Diamonds.
Wed, 12 Apr 2023 - 28min - 120 - Episode 92: 24 Karat Weekend, Russian Diamonds, and Lab-Grown Diamond Quality
You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the 24 Karat Weekend, including the Gem Awards, updates about crime stats at the Jewelers’ Security Alliance lunch, and some news that broke at the Jewelers’ Vigilance Committee luncheon. This leads to a discussion of a potential increase in restrictions on Russian diamond imports and the complexities of this issue. Victoria asks Rob about his take on falling lab-grown diamond prices. She also shares some insights learned from a presentation about differences in lab-grown diamond quality and how those quality issues occur. Finally, the hosts touch on recent events with banks and their impact on the industry.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes01:45 24 Karat Weekend05:00 Updates on U.S. sanctions on Russian diamonds13:00 Lab-grown diamond prices15:00 Lab-grown diamond quality variance23:00 Silicon Valley BankEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine; institute.debeers.comShow Recap24 Karat WeekendRob attended the 24 Karat Gem Awards, while Victoria sadly had to stay home. It was a beautiful event, which included a lovely tribute to Steven Kaiser. JCK writer Amy Elliott (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/amy-elliott/) was up for a media award. Victoria and Rob give a big shout out to Amy, who is a critical member of the JCK edit team and express their pride at her nomination. And they congratulate Michelle Graff, who won this year’s media award.Rob also attended the Jewelers’ Security Alliance (JSA) lunch, where it was reported that last year was the worst for crime that they have seen in a very long time. On the lighter side of things, Rob enjoyed Joe Piscopo’s performance at the 24 Karat Dinner (lots of Sinatra).At the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC) luncheon, Jeffrey Fisher was presented the Stanley Schechter Award in a warm, emotional ceremony. The speaker at the luncheon was James O’Brien, U.S. sanctions coordinator. He made a bit of news in his speech. He gave an effective, folksy speech about the U.S. efforts to put sanctions on Russia. He’s now involved in one of the largest sanctions packages in U.S. history.Stricter Russian Diamond Sanctions on the Horizon The office of U.S. Sanctions wants to put further restrictions on Russian diamonds to close the “substantial transformations” loophole, which allows Russian diamonds that are cut and polished elsewhere to come into the U.S. While they may not eliminate the legal doctrine of substantial transformations, they may put further restrictions on Russian diamonds including requiring sellers to make a declaration that the diamonds they are are selling are not from Russia. This would be a big change in the market.In a brief interview following O’Brien’s speech, Rob asked what happens if people don’t have the proper information about Russian origin. O’Brien said that you can get into a lot of trouble if you aren’t honest with customs. There are still questions about many of the details, including what the size cut-off would be for these sanctions, and what type of proof would be required.
Tue, 28 Mar 2023 - 26min - 119 - Episode 91: Guest Tom NolanWed, 15 Mar 2023 - 29min
- 118 - Episode 90: Gem Shows, Diamond Supplier News, and Chat GPT
You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about what was hot at the Tucson gem shows, and the insights Victoria gleaned as she followed several designers on their searches through the shows. Rob discusses some ongoing diamond supply news, including the ongoing negotiations between De Beers and Botswana, and the possibility of changes to sanctions on Russian diamonds. They also discuss Chat GPT, which people in the jewelry industry—including Rob himself—have started to experiment with.Show Notes02:25 Thoughts on Tucson gem shows12:35 Diamond market news20:40 Testing out Chat GPTEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometShow RecapGem Shows Shine Through Cloudy EconomyVictoria notes that those shows depend so much on how the fourth quarter went for retailers: if the holiday went well, and if they needed to restock for their upcoming collections. Many current economic uncertainties also affected this: Everything from the specter of recession, to inflation, to the war in Ukraine. Despite all the looming questions, Victoria reported that Tucson was a great set of shows.At the high end, despite price increase of 20-30% across the board, demand was still very steady. Victoria spoke with many people who reported having record shows. Dealers explained this was, in part, a reflection of gems’ longtime reputation as a reliable way to store wealth. During times of economic uncertainty, the wealthy may opt to buy gems as a hedge against inflation. And when the economy is booming, people are in good moods, and the up goes the demand for colorful jewels—but for a very different reason. So, there are diverse economic circumstances when gems can fare very well.What Designers Looked ForVictoria observed that there were many of designers at the show this year. Teams from many of the French houses (Louis Vuitton, Boucheron, Tiffany & Co., and Cartier, to name a few) and countless independent designers, including Stephen Webster, Lauren Harwell Godfrey, Lauren Kessler, Katherine Jetter, and Robert Turner, whom Victoria roamed some of the shows with. And they were all looking for different things.Stephen Webster was a unique designer to follow, since he was equally invested in finding rough stones. She describes the different shows they attended to find these. She describes him spraying a rough Peruvian pink opal with water to get a sense of the color. Because you can’t see into these stones, all you have to go off of is the outside. It’s only after cutting into the stone that you know what you’re working with. Victoria quotes Stephen’s colorful way of describing that process: “Sometimes you get what we call ‘angel’s skin’ and other times you get ‘angel’s toenail.’”Most designers start with the stones and build their collections around that. And everyone had their own unique things they were drawn to. Robert Turner loves zircons, tsavorite, and stones in brilliant colors. Katherine Jetter is an opal specialist, so she was looking for those along with Mahenge spinels, which come in very vibrant hot pinks, and were very popular with many designers. Victoria enjoyed being a fly on the wall following these designers on their treasure hunts.Victoria spoke to Dave Bindra, who—when interviewed in an
Wed, 01 Mar 2023 - 24min - 117 - Episode 89: Guest Malyia McNaughton
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Malyia McNaughton, founder of Made by Malyia. The self-taught jewelry designer and Black in Jewelry Coalition board member is proof that trusting your gut can be the key to creative success. When Malyia couldn’t find the jewelry she wanted, she designed her own—and wore it. Demand for her designs inspired her to launch her brand and has made her a rising star whose looks have been worn by Lizzo and other celebrities.Sponsored by De Beers: diamondeducation.debeers.com (http://diamondeducation.debeers.com)Show Notes1:53 From body chain to brand launch5:09 Expanding organically8:04 Turning obstacles into opportunities10:53 Finding creative inspiration13:57 High-profile partnerships17:58 In the spotlight on SNL20:51 The Black in Jewelry Coalition: making a difference23:52 Tips for aspiring designersEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (jckonline.com); @jckmagazine (instagram.com/jckmagazine); madebymalyia.com (https://madebymalyia.com/); diamondeducation.debeers.com (http://diamondeducation.debeers.com) [Use promo code JCKPRO_15 at checkout for 15% off workshops.]Show RecapFrom body chain to brand launchVictoria introduces Brooklyn-based designer Malyia McNaughton, founder of Made by Malyia, and asks how she started creating jewelry. The daughter of Jamaican immigrants was born in the Bronx, raised in Florida, and attended Florida State University, where she studied fashion merchandising and product development. After graduating, she moved back to New York to pursue a career in fashion, starting in sales and product development for Nicole Miller and eventually designing for another fashion brand.In 2014, Malyia had tickets to a music festival in Philadelphia. She wanted to make a statement by wearing a body chain but couldn’t find the right piece. Undeterred, she sourced materials and designed her own. Little did she dream she was making her first item of jewelry. “I got stopped by so many people asking me where I’d gotten it,” Malyia recalls. “After the fifth or sixth person, my friends said, ‘You might be onto something.’ We went to lunch, and they helped me come up with the name Made by Malyia.’ It was one of those Oprah aha moments.”Expanding organicallyAfter months of trial and error, Malyia developed a body chain she felt was ready to put on Etsy. To her delight, orders poured in. Still, she viewed Made by Malyia as a creative outlet, not a business. Gradually she added products based on buyers’ feedback. When a client asked if she could make a temporary nose ring, Malyia branched into nonpermanent nose and body jewelry.
Tue, 14 Feb 2023 - 26min - 116 - Episode 88: VicenzaOro Recap, Sarine Acquiring GCAL, and Noncompetes
Join JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates for a roundup of buzzworthy industry updates. Victoria reports on the recent VicenzaOro fair, where the halls were crowded, the mood upbeat, and the looks big and bold. She updates listeners on a rare timepiece collection from the archives of Jaeger-LeCoultre. It’s the first significant effort by a Swiss watchmaker to sell vintage pieces and may herald a burgeoning trend. Rob analyzes what Israeli equipment maker Sarine’s purchase of the family-owned lab GCAL means for the future of diamond grading—and artificial intelligence’s growing role in it. Finally, the two discuss the Federal Trade Commission’s proposed ban on noncompete clauses.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes2:22 A lively January VicenzaOro fair7:21 Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils first vintage watch collection12:22 What Sarine’s purchase of GCAL means for the future of diamond grading18:09 The FTC’s move to ban noncompete clausesEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine; institute.debeers.comShow RecapViva VicenzaOroJust back from Italy’s January VicenzaOro goldsmith and jewelry fair, Victoria says she was delighted to find the show packed and the mood optimistic. She had expected inflation, the war in Ukraine, and fear of recession to trigger cautiousness and a comedown from the boom the industry has enjoyed since the pandemic started. However, this was the best-attended VicenzaOro ever in terms of both exhibitors and attendees. Victoria spent most of her time in the crowded hall where Roberto Coin, Damiani, Fope, and other luxury brands that export to the United States were exhibiting. Also bustling was the adjacent T.Gold show, featuring jewelry machinery and technology for everything from engraving to laser welding.Victoria is still amassing information on the show’s top sellers, but one trend is certain: Big, bold pieces are replacing the small, delicate ones favored during quarantine. Understated jewelry suited people well when they were working from home, she says, but now subtle looks (such as stacking multiple delicate bracelets on the wrist) are making way for powerful statement pieces—especially cuffs and collar necklaces.Jaeger-LeCoultre Unveils Vintage CollectionVictoria’s recent European trip included a visit to Geneva to learn about Jaeger-LeCoultre’s first-ever vintage watch collection. She explains that the Swiss company is known as the watchmaker’s watchmaker. The brand has made all of its timepieces in its own workshops in the Vallée de Joux since its foundation in 1833, and Jaeger-LeCoultre calibers and movements have powered many other brands’ watches over the years. Now Jaeger-LeCoultre has mined its own rich history to create The Collectibles,
Tue, 31 Jan 2023 - 23min - 115 - Episode 87: Guest Dave BindraTue, 17 Jan 2023 - 27min
- 114 - Episode 86: 2023 Predictions
You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates look ahead into 2023. The hosts, noting that it's folly to predict more than one year ahead, make some educated predictions for the year including: the end of the pandemic, which might bring an end to some new customs while others continue to be new norms; a shakedown in the lab-grown sphere resulting in many leaving the space as prices fall below profitable levels; growing demands for transparency of sustainability claims, including both consumer demand and legislative standards; and an increased presence of AI in the different aspects of the jewelry business.Sponsored by De Beers: institute.debeers.comShow Notes02:45 Looking ahead into 202307:30 Lab-grown diamond shakeout10:20 New transparency laws20:00 How AI is changing the industryEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (jckonline.com); @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/); institute.debeers.com (http://institute.debeers.com/)Show RecapLooking Ahead (But Not Too Far)The pace of change is so quick, and unexpected events—like the pandemic—make looking further than one year into the future a fool’s errand, so Rob and Victoria focus on the year at hand. Victoria found a list of predictions for 2023, one of which these is the end of the pandemic, which experts estimate will happen sometime in 2023.Some trends brought on by the pandemic are likely to remain—such as how it pushed businesses to take a digital-first approach—but others—like masks and distancing—may fade away. Jewelry companies seem much healthier now. They have a reserve of cash and goodwill, better consumer data, etc. Despite global economic factors like inflation, there is optimism.Lab-Grown Diamond ShowdownRob predicts that there will be a shakeout in the lab-grown diamond sector this year. Prices are falling, and not everyone can make the business profitable that way. Days of large margins are petering out, though demand is still strong. Rob foresees that lot of people will leave this market. The natural diamond industry is also dealing with challenges, falling prices. Lab prices are falling because they too are priced based on Rapaport, so when natural diamond prices fall, lab-grown prices follow suit. It has become a race to the bottom, and the rapid growth in this category is about to experience some upheaval.Demands for Transparency in Sustainability ClaimsGreenwashing was put to the test in 2022. People want proof you’re doing what you say. This will continue in 2023. Victoria spoke to a few researchers in this field. One was a Harvard student with a focus on sustainability science. She spent time and research poking holes in those sustainability claims different companies make. JCK published a story on how to create a sustainability report last year. This kind of transparency of reporting will soon become law. It has passed in the EU already. This will apply for public as well as private companies. These laws apply to larger companies that do business in Europe too.For a long time, the wide world of luxury brands got away with being very opaque. There was a mystique around how they did business. Gen Z will ensure that words and trust are not enough.
Tue, 03 Jan 2023 - 27min - 113 - Episode 85: Holiday Predictions, Rolex Goes Certified Preowned, Colored Diamonds
You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk holiday predictions, the theme of which is cautious optimism. They discuss inflation and its affect (or lack thereof) on spending on jewelry, depending on strata. (The wealth divide is also the dividing line for this consideration.) The hosts also talk about Rolex’s recent announcement that they are entering the preowned watch space, and the questions this brings up about the secondhand marketplace. They also note a slowing down in the colored diamond market.Show Notes01:30 Educated guesses about the holiday season03:40 Inflation concerns09:15 Rolex launches certified pre-owned program19:30 Colored diamond category slows downEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine, jckonline.comShow RecapModerate Hopes for the HolidaysAs they look ahead and talk about the holidays. When Victoria spoke to Abe Sherman at Buyers Intelligence Group (BIG) who said, “I’ll tell you in ten days.” For jewelers, things don’t come into focus until the very last moment. They suspect this holiday won’t be as strong as last year. Most of those who Rob has spoken to think that even if it is a few points lower than last year, they could still characterize this year’s holiday sales as a success.When Signet announced their results, Gina Drosos gave the reasoning that last year, many did their shopping early because of supply chain worries. This year, that doesn’t seem to be the case. October had been down, but things are picking up closer to the holiday. The last two years are such a high base. People don’t necessarily expect those levels to continue, but still hope for a successful year.Effects of InflationThough inflation has calmed, it is still higher than we are accustomed to. This affects how the middle class spends on jewelry. Whether it gives the wealthy pause about how they spend, Victoria is not sure. Increasingly, those markets are bifurcated: the upper class does not have to make adjustments to their spending the way the middle and lower-income shoppers do when economic concerns come up.The pattern of the last several years has been gains on the higher end and not as much on the lower and middle. During the pandemic, there were gains across the board. Now, we’re going back to the pre-pandemic pattern. Signet has noted that the gains they are seeing are at the high end, or “accessible luxury.”Something jewelers learned during the pandemic was to up their digital game. Rob has noticed a lot of jewelers putting out interesting content on TikTok. This is the way of the future when it comes to reaching buyers. Jewelers have also used YouTube to tell their store’s story in an appealing way. Rob comments on the organic nature of TikTok. It feels personal. There’s a strange charm to it being just one person with their phone.Rolex Enters the Pre-Owned SpaceOn December 1st, Rolex announced they were formally entering the preowned space. It is launching a program in Europe through Bucherer. Time will tell when it will come to the US. Bucherer is a Swiss retailer that has a presence in the US already through Tourneau, and are established in the secondhand space.A few big questions are, who is setting the pricing,
Tue, 20 Dec 2022 - 28min - 112 - Episode 84: Guest Marion FaselTue, 06 Dec 2022 - 28min
- 111 - Episode 83: Jacob & Co.’s Godfather Watch, Luxury Brands Gain Clout, Translating Gen Z
JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) discuss Victoria’s recent trip to Sicily to see Jacob & Co.’s new Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary watch commemorating the classic film. Next, Victoria and Rob explore the growing power of brand names in high jewelry, a trend fueling forays into real estate and hospitality. Victoria breaks down how changing legislation may pave the way to more transparency on sourcing and the supply chain. Finally, Rob shares what recent research by The Women’s Jewelry Association and Citizen Watch America revealed about Gen Z—and finds out how well he and Victoria speak Gen Z’s language with a quiz on current slang.Show Notes:02:15 Victoria recaps her trip to Sicily to see Jacob & Co.’s Godfather watch10:40 Rob and Victoria discuss the growing power of high jewelry brand names16:35 Victoria speculates on the current state and likely future of transparency in the industry17:50 Rob reports on a recent WJA event sponsored by Citizen Watch focusing on Gen ZEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine, JCK’s e-newsletterShow RecapJacob & Co. Godfather Watch Honors Hollywood HistoryVictoria describes her visit to Taormina, Sicily, to see Jacob & Co.’s new Opera Godfather 50th Anniversary watch, a limited-series $500,000 collectible timepiece that plays the theme from the Oscar-winning film and features 13 iconic scenes from the movie engraved on the case using laser technology. Highlights of the trip included Godfather trivia and tales recounted by actor Gianni Russo, who played Carlo Rizzi, as well as visits to locations from the film. For Victoria, the experience held special meaning because The Godfather was her father’s favorite movie.The Growing Power of High Jewelry Brand NamesRob notes that Jacob & Co. is working with a developer in Dubai to create an ultra-luxe residential tower, with designs inspired by the company’s jewelry. Victoria says this reflects the increasing power of brand names in a market that now comprises 25-30% branded jewelry. Her recent conversations with CEOs from Bulgari, Pomelatto, and Tiffany & Co. suggest that branded jewelers are optimistic about the future, expanding factories and brick-and-mortar stores that elevate the retail experience, such as the soon-to-open Tiffany flagship store. They are also banking on the trust their names inspire to explore other spheres. Bulgari, for example, is expanding its hospitality footprint with a resort in the Maldives. High jewelry brands see growth potential around the world and in smaller-tier U.S. cities with high concentrations of wealth, like Aspen and Boston, where A. Lange & Söhne recently opened a boutique. This supports the theory that the rich are getting richer, Victoria observes. The Truth About Transparency and Changes on the HorizonVictoria observes that it’s rare for companies to share real, on-the-record answers to questions about corporate responsibility. She recently wrote a story about transparency in the watch trade for which she called 12 high-end watch makers, including Cartier, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Rolex.
Tue, 22 Nov 2022 - 26min - 110 - Episode 82: Guest Paul SchneiderTue, 08 Nov 2022 - 26min
- 109 - Episode 81: Conversations in Park City, De Beers Leadership, New Patek Philippe
You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about Conversations in Park City, a new De Beers CEO, and a new spin on a classic Patek Philippe watch. Victoria recaps her time in Park City, where she contemplated the present and future of retail with experts curated by PSFK. Rob reports on the change in leadership at De Beers, where Bruce Cleaver has stepped down and become co-chairman, and Al Cook will step into his shoes as CEO. Victoria covers the latest iteration of a popular Nautilus and what it means for the direction of the Patek Philippe brand.Show Notes01:00 Victoria interviewed the president of Bulgari who was in the Maldives.04:30 A recap of Conversations in Park City09:00 A change in leadership at De Beers19:55 New Patek Philippe watchEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: @jckmagazine, jckonline.com Show RecapHospitality Meets JewelryVictoria got up early to speak to the president of Bvlgari, Daniel Paltridge, who was in the Maldives at the time. They talk about the Bvlgari hotel and how expensive it is—€2,500 per night! Rob wonders what guests might get in addition to the room for that price. (Likely not jewelry.) There are other examples of brands that cross over from fashion to hospitality—Armani, Shinola, etc. The hope is that you can capture an audience in one and then target them in the other side of the business.Conversations with Friends—in Park CityVictoria recently traveled to Park City, UT, to Conversations in Park City, the leadership summit hosted by Jewelers Mutual. The brainchild of Mark Smelzer, head of content for Jewelers Mutual (and JCK’s former publisher). He had a vision to pull together the crème de la crème of the industry and bringing them all to a leadership retreat. Everyone met at the St. Regis in Deer Valley, with their loved ones in tow. Victoria brought her family and enjoyed the wonderful weather.But the main focus was the content. Mark pulled in one of the leading thinkers on retail strategy and futurism, PSFK. Jeff Weiner of PSFK brought in some experts that they’ve used for their presentations—on the omnichannel experience, “phigital” retail, and other things retailers need to be prepared for. It was both present- and future-focused, informing retailers about shifts in the consumer atmosphere. Though Victoria tends to tune out when people talk about NFTs, she found this coverage easier to digest. It was a beautiful setting for some great conversations. Overall, the event was brief and meaningful. She hopes there will be another one next year.A Change in Leadership for De BeersRob reports that Bruce Cleaver is stepping down as CEO of De Beers and handing over the reins to Al Cook—an industry outsider who worked for an energy company. His predecessor, Philippe Mellier, was also an outsider. He got great results for the bottom line of the company, but injured some relationships with clients who felt he drove prices too high. Bruce repaired that relationship, and is well-respected. Though it’s not clear why he is leaving this position, he will still be involved as co-chairman. It’s a job where you’re never bored because there are so many aspects to it.Victoria wonders about the selection process.
Tue, 25 Oct 2022 - 26min - 108 - Episode 80: Guests Jules Kim and Vikki TobakTue, 11 Oct 2022 - 28min
- 107 - Episode 79: Facets 2022 and a Cartier Press TripTue, 27 Sep 2022 - 25min
- 106 - Episode 78: Guest Eric KuTue, 13 Sep 2022 - 30min
- 105 - Episode 77: Signet Acquires Blue Nile, Fall Fashion Trends
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) discuss Signet's acquisition of Blue Nile, what it means for the brand and how they might evolve as a result. Victoria reports on her research into fall's biggest fashion trends, which include animal motifs and a resurgence of the power-dressing era of the 80s and 90s. Show Notes03:00 Signet is acquiring Blue Nile12:00 Victoria reports on the latest in fall fashion19:00 80s and 90s jewelry styles are on trendEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (jckonline.com), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapSignet to Acquire Blue NileBig news in the dog days of August: Signet is acquiring Blue Nile. This is part of Signet's pattern: they keep acquiring the competition. One of the things current management is focused on is growing market shares. And this is the easiest way to accomplish that. However, there are high customer acquisition costs that have to be paid to Google and Facebook. Google, Facebook and other companies like them have gotten so large, it places a burden on other competition because of the high expensive to advertise online. Rob sees this as a troubling sign on a higher level.The deal will likely contribute to the long-term sustainability of Blue Nile's brand. But people worry how many businesses are all consolidated under one large umbrella. Victoria wonders how Blue Nile might evolve under Signet. It's not clear where the brand will fit among the other jewelry brands under Signet now.Victoria recalls the interesting things that Blue Nile has done in recent years: Their 10 by 10 collaboration with De Beers and designers of color, for example. They want to be a brand that speaks to people, not "the Amazon of jewelry."Themes in Fall FashionVictoria has been doing research into the latest fall fashion trends and reporting on them in the JCK Special Report newsletters. Here are a few themes she's been noticing, to help inform what jewelers may want to stock. A surprising but endearing trend gaining steam is animal-inspired jewelry. Though this has been going on for thousands of years, there are times when the motif gains steam. Victoria spoke to an expert on this category: Marion Fasel, jewelry historian and founder and editorial director of The Adventurine (https://theadventurine.com/). She worked on the Beautiful Creatures (https://www.amnh.org/exhibitions/beautiful-creatures) exhibit at The American Museum of Natural History. The two animals that come up over and over again, according to Fasel? Snakes and butterflies.Snakes have a beautiful shape that lend themselves to jewelry, which can symbolize wisdom and eternal love. The butterfly has emerged in many jewelry collections this year. Symbolizing rebirth and transformation, it's particularly resonant to people right now as we begin to emerge from the pandemic. Victoria describes some collections she's seen that feature interesting creatures as pendants. In the vintage space, sales of animal-inspired pieces are soaring, as well. The zodiac trend also contributes to the popularity of the animal theme, since many of the symbols of the zodiac are animals as well.80s Jewelry Makes a ComebackThough it might be surprising, jewelry from as recent as the 90s can now technically be considered vintage. And,
Tue, 30 Aug 2022 - 25min - 104 - Episode 76: Mark Smelzer
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/)...
Tue, 16 Aug 2022 - 28min - 103 - Episode 75: Secondhand Watches, Showtime’s Diamond Documentary
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about secondhand watch prices, the cost of entering the jewelry business, and an early look at a diamond documentary.Show Notes00:30 Victoria talks about the secondhand watch industry and its fluctuating prices.13:24 Victoria questions the economic barriers to getting into the diamond industry.17:53 Rob reviews the new diamond documentary Nothing Lasts Forever.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapSecondhand WatchesVictoria comments that it’s a little bit slow in the jewelry industry in July, but it’s a nice break from the busy earlier months. She then dives into the secondhand watch market and the online auction market. The companies she spoke to have seen great success, and there’s been growth in both sales and new buyers. People are flocking to online auctions because of the pandemic, and prices are fluctuating at the moment, so market value isn’t exactly clear. Auctions help determine that market value. Rob asks how the most well-known brands have reacted to this. Victoria said they were definitely watching and hugely discouraged it.The Cost of Entering the Jewelry BusinessVictoria says it’s very expensive to enter the jewelry industry unless you already have family ties or come from a great deal of wealth. To amass the materials and create a jewelry line is an incredible task, and an expensive one at that. There are PR, trade shows, photography, and more that all cost money to get your brand out there. This isn’t to take away from the quality of jewelers’ design capabilities, but it's important to note that all aspects of this business take tremendous amounts of capital. Emili Vesilind wrote about how to get your business started in this JCK Pro article (https://www.jckonline.com/article-long/real-costs-breaking-into-jewelry/). She posits that it takes a bare minimum of $37,000 to start a jewelry business, which doesn’t encourage diversity in the jewelry industry.Nothing Lasts ForeverRob wrote a review (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/showtime-diamond-nothing-lasts/) about the new documentary about lab-grown diamonds, Nothing Lasts Forever, airing this fall on Showtime. Rob says it was a beautifully shot film and describes it as an odd experience and hard for him to be objective about, as he knows so many people in the movie. He believes most people will be unhappy with this film, and that it was slanted against the natural diamond industry. Nothing Lasts Forever is scheduled to stream on Showtime in September.
Wed, 03 Aug 2022 - 25min - 102 - Episode 74: Mithun Sacheti
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with Mithun Sacheti, CEO of CaratLane.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest Mithun Sacheti, CEO of CaratLane.07:17 Mithun compares CaratLane to Blue Nile.10:15 Victoria asks about his early business.14:42 Mithun describes his most recent experience at the JCK show.16:09 Mithun talks about Tanishq purchasing majority share of CaratLane.21:00 Rob asks about CaratLane’s brick-and-mortar stores.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/), CaratLane.com (https://www.caratlane.com/)Show RecapIntroducing Mithun SachetiMithun Sacheti is the CEO of CaratLane, which is often described as the Indian version of Blue Nile. He spoke to JCK from the southeastern coast of India. His mother and father were in the jewelry business, and Mithun describes it as a “generational business,” which is how he got into it himself. Mithun studied at GIA and worked briefly in San Diego. When he returned to India, he opened his own jewelry store.Blue Nile InspirationMithun compares the Indian jewelry business model to the business in the United States. Mithun says he learned from Blue Nile that you have to find the easiest place to enter the industry. In India, while diamonds are fine to sell, its real strong point is selling jewelry as opposed to loose diamonds and engagement rings. In the early days, Mithun describes a hostility similar to what Blue Nile faced in its early days.Building the BusinessVictoria asks how Mithun coaxed people to buy originally, and he said initially consumers were resistant. CaratLane built a try-at-home model in an attempt to get people to buy their diamonds, which ended up being successful. Mithun doesn’t think this model would necessarily work in America.The JCK ShowMithun was just at the most recent JCK show—the first one he attended was back in 1998. Victoria asks for his take on this year’s JCK show, and Mithun said it was all about making connections.TanishqIn 2016, Tanishq purchased a majority share in CaratLane. Tanishq is the largest jewelry company in India and has been around for 25 years now, with a market capitalization close to $1 billion. Mithun says Tanishq has been a great partner, and CaratLane has been able to grow on a much faster scale thanks to its involvement. Victoria asked what other kinds of things CaratLane has tried as a company, and Mithun describes a virtual try-on, different from augmented reality, that didn’t pan out. One thing that worked very well was building an omnichannel network.Brick-and-MortarRob asks why CaratLane believed it needed a brick-and-mortar store when it was successful online. Mithun believes there is a need for tactile jewelry shopping, even though consumers find jewelry online.(Photo courtesy of Mithun Sacheti)
Tue, 19 Jul 2022 - 27min - 101 - Episode 73: George Holmes, LVMH and Lusix, and Russian Diamonds
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) discuss former JCK editor-in-chief George Holmes’ legacy, LVMH's investment in Lusix, and Russian diamonds and Ukrainian jewelers.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob remember former JCK editor-in-chief George Holmes13:51 Victoria reports on the state of the industry17:15 Rob reports on LVMH’s investment in Lusix20:03 Victoria and Rob talk about Russian diamonds and Ukrainian jewelersEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapRemembering George HolmesGeorge Holmes, JCK’s former editor-in-chief of 22 years, died last month (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/jck-editor-george-holmes-dies/). Victoria describes his as a legendary editor. Rob talks about his time working with him and says he was gracious and intelligent with unyielding editorial integrity. Victoria and Rob share an audio clip from an earlier podcast (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/podcast-jewelry-district-ep-4/) of Joe Thompson speaking about George Holmes.State of the IndustryVictoria discusses a Jewelers Board of Trade webinar with its president, Erich Jacobs. He showed graphs on consumer sentiment, confidence, unemployment rates, and more. Erich says unemployment is linked to consumer satisfaction—if unemployment is low, generally consumer confidence is high. Now, we’re seeing a break from this. We have record low unemployment and low consumer confidence. Victoria says retailers may feel a little pinch in their bottom line, as consumers aren’t using credit cards as much.LVMH and Lab-Grown DiamondsRob comments on the lab-grown space and LVMH Luxury Holdings' investment in Lusix, an Israeli lab-grown diamond company. LVMH is not being shy about its investment—but this investment raises questions. Rob believes LVMH wants Lusix to scale with more persistent production. Victoria asks if the luxury sector is finally ready to accept lab-grown diamonds, and Rob isn’t sure.Russian DiamondsVictoria asks what’s happening in the world of Russian diamonds, and Rob says there are rumors in the industry about banks in Europe not wanting to fund Russian diamond shipments. Rob says the big companies have figured out a way to get diamonds back on the market after a slow run for Russian diamonds. On the flip side, Victoria has spoken to many Ukrainian jewelers, and her takeaway was their commitment to improving the industry and getting attention for Ukrainian jewelers in the market.
Tue, 05 Jul 2022 - 25min - 100 - Episode 72: JCK Show Takeaways and Interviews
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) share their post–JCK show takeaways and the interviews they conducted live on the JCK show floor.Show Notes00:30 Rob and Victoria share their takeaways from the JCK show09:30 Victoria interviews Jewelers Mutual Group’s chief content executive, Mark Smelzer11:00 Victoria interviews Stuller CEO Matt Stuller13:40 Rob interviews Craig Underwood of Underwoods Fine Jewelers17:00 Rob interviews Feriel Zerouki of De Beers20:18 Rob interviews Steve Coe, CEO of Lightbox Jewelry25:40 Victoria interviews Yuliya Kusher, CEO of Meylor Global29:26 Victoria interviews Manos Phoundoulakis of EZEC31:23 Rob interviews Jeff Corey, former owner of Day’s Jewelers, now currently the vice president of marketingEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapJCK Show TakeawaysVictoria and Rob comment on how amazing the JCK show was this year. Rob says the mood and attendance were really strong and how the jewelry industry has been on a high the past two years. Some people even told Rob it was their best show ever. Others came to the show for the first time—a great reminder of why we have in-person shows. There was some awareness of inflation at the show. Victoria also mentions orange emerging as a hot color in jewelry.Mark SmelzerVictoria interviews Jewelers Mutual Group’s chief content executive, Mark Smelzer. Mark used to be the publisher of JCK, and Victoria asks what it's like to be on the other side of the JCK show experience. Mark comments on the overall energy at the show, and that it’s great to see sales happening at every booth.Matt StullerMatt Stuller, CEO of Stuller, is excited to be at the show. Victoria comments on how busy the Stuller booth is. Victoria asks about its innovations this year. Victoria loves its permanent bracelet stand. Victoria asks how business has been so far this year, and Matt says business has been very strong. Everyone is cautiously optimistic.Craig UnderwoodRob mentions how Craig Underwood of Underwoods Fine Jewelers has just won the Robert M. Shipley Award, and Craig says they’re still on the high from receiving that award. Rob asks what they’re seeing at the show so far, and Craig says he’s loving the energy. Rob asks if Craig thinks this is going to be a great holiday, and Craig says yes—he’s cautiously optimistic.Feriel ZeroukiFeriel Zerouki, who won the Diamonds Do Good Next Gen Award at the show, is the senior vice president of corporate affairs for De Beers. Rob asks about Feriel’s involvement with the Responsible Jewellery Council, and Feriel says despite some problems recently, there’s also been great progress. Rob asks about the JCK show, and Feriel says it’s going well.Steve CoeRob asks Steve Coe, the CEO of Lightbox Jewelry, how things have progressed with Lightbox, which created shock waves in the industry when it first released its lab-grown jewelry line. Steve says 25% of their buyers are repeat customers. Rob notes how Lightbox expects to be using 100% renewable energy by the end of 2022, and Steve says it is making great progress on that.
Wed, 22 Jun 2022 - 35min - 99 - Episode 71: Steven Kaiser, Recycled Gold, And JCK Las Vegas
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) discuss Steven Kaiser’s passing, the Oak collection watch event at London’s Design Museum, De Beers' blockchain platform, recycled gold, and the JCK Las Vegas show.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob give their condolences to the family of Steven Kaiser.05:25 Victoria recounts her visit to London’s Design Museum to see the Oak collection.13:40 Rob explains De Beers' blockchain technology.16:22 Rob is concerned with recycled gold and what the term actually means.21:09 Victoria and Rob are excited for JCK Las Vegas!Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapSteven KaiserVictoria and Rob give their condolences to the family of Steven Kaiser. The industry titan passed away (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/steven-kaiser-connector-dies/) a week before recording this podcast. He was feted at 24 Karat Weekend in March. He was a "connecter" and, as Rob reports, very good at smoothing things over. The jewelry industry mourns his passing, and he will be deeply missed at JCK Las Vegas this week.The Oak CollectionVictoria was one of 65 journalists invited to London in late May to attend an event at the Design Museum. There, she saw the Oak (one-of-a-kind) collection. The Oak's owner, Patrick Getreide, has been collecting watches for 40 years. He has more than 600 of them (heavy on Patek Phillipe and Rolex), and 130 of them were on display for just one week. Victoria said the event felt like the gilded age of watches. Rob briefly mentions the Apple Watch and its effect on the watch industry.De Beers' BlockchainRob talks about De Beers and its blockchain technology (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/de-beers-all-diamonds-trackable/). Basically, Rob says, it’s a way to track diamonds through the chain in a trade-facing, rather than consumer-facing, manner. De Beers says it can trace all of its diamonds of 1 carat and above and believes it can scale this technology. Rob says this technology has been a long time coming, and De Beers has the most ambitious technology out of everyone trying their hand at it.What Is Recycled Gold?Rob recently wrote a story (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/just-what-is-recycled-gold/) on recycled gold, and Victoria asks what prompted him to write it. Rob says he was recently part of a webinar about recycled gold, and it made him consider what recycled gold really is. As it turns out, there are many definitions if recycled gold—including the one the Federal Trade Commission uses: something that would otherwise go in the trash. The problem is, gold isn’t thrown out. Rob talks about why labeling anything as recycled gold is a problem and why the industry should start being clearer on what recycled gold really is.JCK Las VegasVictoria and Rob’s schedules are packed for JCK Las Vegas (http://lasvegas.jckonline.com). All of the events are back on, there’s tons of excitement, and Victoria is hoping for some good weather (not too hot!). From what Victoria understands, there is a great need to restock, which will make for a great show. JCK will be giving talks from the JCK stage and various educational classrooms.
Tue, 07 Jun 2022 - 24min - 98 - Episode 70: Guest Sarin Bachmann On JCK Las Vegas
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with Sarin Bachmann, group vice president of RX Jewelry Group at Reed Exhibitions. They'll be discussing JCK Las Vegas 2022 and all that you can expect at the 30th anniversary of the show, which runs June 10–13.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob welcome their guest Sarin Bachmann, group vice president of RX Group at Reed Exhibitions.5:33 Sarin explains the layout of this year's show.10:35 Rob asks about the education and entertainment lineup at the show.16:32 Rob asks Sarin what she does to get ready for the show.23:55 Sarin gives hot tips for your time at the show.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapIntroducing Sarin BachmannVictoria and Rob welcome their guest Sarin Bachmann, group vice president of Reed Jewelry Group. She’s here to talk about the JCK show. The Luxury show opens June 8, and JCK Las Vegas kicks off on June 10. Sarin then tells how she got into the jewelry industry. She started off by working as a consultant, and one of her clients was Reed Exhibitions. She ended up leaving to work for Reed. She loves the jewelry industry, and knew she eventually wanted to run the jewelry shows. She particularly loves the passion in this industry.The JCK Show LayoutVictoria briefly asks about Yancy Weinrich, Sarin's predecessor as head of the Reed Jewelry Group. Yancy recently left RX, and now is a president of another trade show company. Sarin then pivots to talking about this year’s show. She says the layout is going to be similar to how things were in 2019 (i.e., having Luxury back on level 2). Sarin is excited for international visitors to be back at the show. New this year will be a pavilion called The Shops for gifts for retailers to fill out their stores. JCK swag will be available there as well.Education and EntertainmentRob asks about the education and entertainment lineup, and Sarin gives the full rundown, including sessions on sustainability, trends, digital marketing, NFTs, and much more. All programs will be back, including a visit from the cast of the musical Hamilton in a private performance with an after-party to follow. Victoria asks what Sarin is looking most forward to, and she says she’s looking forward to all the photo and video opportunities on the floor. She’s also looking forward to the show’s 30th-anniversary celebration happening on Saturday.Getting Ready for the ShowRob asks what Sarin does to get ready for the show—Sarin says packing! She’s out there for 10 or 11 nights, and the act of packing gets her excited for the show. Sarin says she’s not nervous, but there’s always some anxiety leading up to the show, especially for her own speech. She also says she never gets tired in Vegas, she’s always excited and ready to go to the show. Victoria plugs the newest issue of JCK, which includes a guide to new Vegas attractions. Victoria and Sarin both mention where they think you can get the best lunch in town.Hot TipsRob asks Sarin what her average JCK show day is like. Sarin says she saves checking out jewelry for the last day. Rob asks what she'd advise to those on the fence about coming to the JCK show,
Tue, 24 May 2022 - 26min - 97 - Episode 69: Watches and Wonders, AGS, and Russian Diamonds
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about Watches and Wonders Geneva, the AGS Conclave, and Russian diamonds.Show Notes00:30 Victoria recaps her experience as a guest of Breitling ahead of Watches and Wonders.11:00 Victoria fills us in on her experience at Watches and Wonders.17:09 Rob was at the AGS Conclave and tells us how that went.21:49 Victoria and Rob express excitement for JCK Las Vegas; Rob talks about Russian diamonds.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapBreitling MarketingVictoria went to Watches and Wonders Geneva, where she was a guest of Breitling. Known for its aviation watches, the company invited journalists and watch experts to Zurich ahead of Watches and Wonders to celebrate the 70th anniversary of its Navitimer, introduced in 1952. George Kern, CEO of Breitling, came down to give a speech and boarded the same plane as Victoria, and everyone flew to Geneva. On the plane, all of the new watches were passed around.Watches and WondersVictoria says Watches and Wonders was a good show with a lot of excitement and optimism. She also noticed a lot of travel-themed watches. Rob asks if there was a lot of talk about smartwatches, and Victoria says no. She believes that smartwatches may have ignited a larger interest in watches in general even when they’re not present themselves. She also mentions a new mechanical watch she picked up at the show, and one brand, TAG Heuer, that’s using lab-grown diamonds in its watches.AGS ConclaveRob was just at the AGS Conclave in Oklahoma City. Victoria asks if lab-grown was a big theme there, and Rob says it was a theme, but not a major one. A lot of the discussion around lab-grown diamonds was about making sure you’re not accidentally buying a lab-grown when you believe you’re buying natural. A big topic at AGS was Russian diamonds and the reputational issues around buying and selling them. Rob says the mood at AGS was a good, and this event was one of its most highly attended Conclaves. There were sessions on sustainability and the verbiage around sustainability as well as origin and tracing.Russian DiamondsVictoria mentions anticipation for JCK Las Vegas. Rob and Victoria are both looking forward to the event and want to meet with people in person rather than virtually. To end the podcast, Victoria asks Rob about Russian diamonds. The U.S. sanctions have been a big hit to Alrosa, which is one- third owned by the Russian government. There aren’t many newly mined diamonds on the market. A lot of people are paying attention to traceability and sourcing.
Tue, 10 May 2022 - 27min - 96 - Episode 68: Guest Ziad Ahmed
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with Ziad Ahmed, CEO of JUV Consulting, a New York City–based firm that advises companies on how to market to Gen Z.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest Ziad Ahmed, CEO of JUV Consulting06:02 Rob asks what characteristics define Gen Z14:30 Victoria asks about non-digital experiences and purpose-led brands, while Rob asks about how Gen Zers feel about marketing18:45 Rob asks how Gen Z views the luxury category21:27 Victoria asks how Gen Zers are now buying jewelryEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.jckonline.com/), JUV Consulting (https://www.juvconsulting.com/)Show RecapIntroducing Ziad AhmedVictoria and Rob introduce their guest Ziad Ahmed, CEO of JUV Consulting, a New York City–based firm that advises companies on how to market to Gen Z. Gen Z is defined as people who were born between 1997 and 2012. Ziad was born and raised in Princeton, N.J., in an American-Muslim household. In eighth grade, he started a nonprofit, a by-teens, for-teens organization that make community and schools more operative and inclusive. In high school, he started JUV Consulting, as he believed diverse young people should have a seat at the table.What Makes Gen-Z Rob asks what Ziad relies on for the information he’s tapped into on Gen Z, and Ziad reports that it’s a mix of survey data, in-depth research, and more. Victoria asks what kind of clients JUV works with, and Ziad says it ranges from Fortune 500s to startups to local campaigns to nonprofits. Ziad shares some of the clients that he’s been proud to work with. Rob asks the key characteristics that define Gen Z, and Ziad says Gen Z has grown up in the digital age, with social media as a language that they’re fluent in that allows them to find community. Victoria asks which platforms are essential, and Ziad thinks TikTok is the platform of the moment where celebrities are made overnight.Gen Z and Digital Experiences, Sustainability, and MarketingVictoria is interested in Ziad’s non-digital experiences, and Ziad explains how non-digital and digital experiences are blended. She then asks how Gen Z views the marketplace and how they want to shop, and if purpose-led brands are important to Gen Zers. Ziad says the American market has the capital to spend a little extra on purpose-led brands. Ziad believes we will continue to raise the bar on what sustainability looks like. Rob asks what turns Gen Zers off or what comes across as tone-deaf, and Ziad says that most marketing is cringe-inducing, and that’s why JUV consulting exists.How Gen Z Views LuxuryRob asks about luxury and how Ziad’s generation tends to look at luxury, and Ziad says luxury is in for a rude awakening as a lot of it is antithetical to Gen Z’s values. There are issues around inclusivity, income inequality, and gluttony and excess that are being scrutinized by this generation. Gen Z is concerned with what companies are paying their employees, how stable the supply chain is, and what kind of craftsmanship went into the making of the piece. Gen Z, Ziad says, is concerned with its image, and, like a brand, is trying to create who they are and show what they represent through their purchasing habits.
Tue, 26 Apr 2022 - 27min - 95 - Episode 67: Origin Stories
In This EpisodeWe’ve collected the origin stories of some past guests—including that of host and news director Rob Bates—so you can hear the different ways in which people got their start in the industry. You'll hear from Alexander Lacik, Sean Kell, Alexis Padis, Gina Drosos, and Alan Revere.Show Notes00:30 Introducing this week’s podcast02:57 Alexander Lacik, CEO of Pandora06:14 Sean Kell, CEO of Blue Nile09:48 Alexis Padis, president of Padis Jewelry 13:50 Gina Drosos, CEO of Signet Jewelers17:44 Alan Revere, founder of the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts22:40 Rob Bates, news director of JCKEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) and Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/)Producer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine, (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Pandora Group (http://www.pandoragroup.com), Blue Nile (https://www.bluenile.com/), Padis Jewelers (https://www.padisgems.com/), Signet Jewelers (https://signetjewelers.com/), Alan Revere (http://www.revereacademy.com/), Rob Bates Author (https://robbatesauthor.com/) Show Recap(https://www.jckonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/02/Alexander-Lacik.jpg)Alexander LacikBefore becoming CEO of Pandora, Alexander worked with a range of brands including Pringles, Vicks, Always, Olay, Pantene, Lysol, Woolite, Head & Shoulders, and more. After moving back to Sweden with his kids, he ended up working with Britax for a while before Pandora knocked on his door. He was excited to work with Pandora because it was a big Scandinavian international brand. Rob asks what the commonalities are between these successful brands.(https://www.jckonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Sean-Kell.jpg)Sean KellSean Kell, CEO of Blue Nile, came from a family who loved jewelry. He started as an engineer, then went into sales before going to business school to study marketing. He also worked at Starbucks, Expedia, and A Place for Mom before finally ending up in the jewelry industry. What attracted him to the industry in the first place: its size, and how it’s difficult for consumers to figure it out—he wants to change the industry to be a little more convenient for shoppers. Blue Nile originally operated solely on the web, but it has since opened brick-and-mortar stores to meet customers where they want to be met.(https://www.jckonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/09/Alexis-Padis.jpg)Alexis PadisAlexis Padis is president of Padis Jewelry in San Francisco. She’s one of four kids, and she’s the only one who ended up joining the family business after spending time in an entirely different industry. She tells the story of how after selling an engagement ring to one couple she decided to make the industry here career. She also explains how her parents got into the industry. Her dad dropped out of medical school to become a jeweler, and met his Alexis’ mom in the industry.(https://www.jckonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/Gina-Drosos.jpg)Gina DrososGina Drosos, CEO of Signet Jewelers, says she’s always wanted to work in an industry where she feels as though the product makes a difference in people’s lives.
Tue, 12 Apr 2022 - 25min - 94 - Episode 66: Guest Beth Gerstein
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with Beth Gerstein, cofounder and CEO of Brilliant Earth.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest Beth Gerstein, cofounder and CEO of Brilliant Earth08:30 Beth explains the importance of sustainability to the consumer14:11 Brilliant Earth offers both lab-grown and natural diamonds—Beth explains the difference19:10 Beth talks about Brilliant Earth’s Fairmined collection23:16 Rob and Victoria wrap up the podcast with discussion of international plans, marketing to Gen Z versus millennials, Russian diamonds, and brick-and-mortar stores and online salesEpisode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: brilliantearth.com (https://www.brilliantearth.com/), jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (http://instagram.com/jckmagazine)Show RecapIntroducing Beth GersteinVictoria and Rob introduce their guest Beth Gerstein, cofounder and CEO of Brilliant Earth in San Francisco. Victoria mentions that Brilliant Earth is really leading the charge on sustainability and ethical sourcing. As always, the JCK editors dive into Beth’s background and how she got into the jewelry industry. Beth grew up in Maryland, and both of her parents worked in government. She studied biomedical engineering and did work launching satellites, but Beth eventually realized her heart was in business and switched industries entirely.The Importance of SustainabilityBeth explains how she developed Brilliant Earth on a set of values revolving around sustainability and ethical sourcing. With diamonds being such an emotional purchase, she believed people would want to know about the sourcing of their stones. She says Brilliant Earth's customers don’t want to compromise on quality, design, or experience—but transparency is extremely important. The company recently released its sustainability report, and she wants the industry to continue to do this difficult work. Beth also confirms that it’s been six months since Brilliant Earth went public. She says it helps them to set clear objectives and have financial discipline.Lab-Grown DiamondsVictoria and Rob have questions for Beth about lab-grown versus mined diamonds, and Beth says that there’s space for both—it opens the market more. Brilliant Earth started offering lab-grown 10 years ago and sees continued success with their sale. As a retailer, she says it's Brilliant Earth's responsibility to be open about its sources for both conflict-free and lab-grown diamonds. Beth says typically the younger shopper tends to gravitate more toward lab-grown diamonds. Victoria asks about a lack of transparency when it comes to lab-grown diamond sourcing.Brilliant Earth’s Fairmined CollectionVictoria asks Beth about Brilliant Earth's new Fairmined gold (https://www.brilliantearth.com/eco-friendly-jewelry/fairmined/) collection, and Beth says she developed the collection with its customers in mind. She’s happy to be able to support artisanal and small-scale miners who are getting a fair price for their gold. She believes Fairmined gold will only grow in popularity. Victoria also asks if Beth goes to shows like JCK—and Beth has met many great suppliers since the first show. Rob asks what the most important thing about building a brand is,
Tue, 29 Mar 2022 - 28min - 93 - Episode 65: Diamonds and the Russian Invasion of Ukraine
In This Episode You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about the industry-related effects of the Russian invasion of Ukraine and some news from the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA). Note: This episode was recorded a few days before President Biden announced the U.S. ban on imports of Russian diamonds.Show Notes00:00 Victoria and Rob send well wishes to the people of Ukraine affected by the Russian invasion.04:34 Rob discusses the partly Russian government–owned Alrosa.09:51 Victoria predicts the demand of Russian diamonds in years to come.12:40 Much like diamonds, the question of gold sourcing remains as important as ever.19:00 Rob reports on AGTA and Doug Hucker’s departure.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (http://instagram.com/jckmagazine)Show RecapWishing Well to UkraineIn light of the Russian invasion of Ukraine, Rob and Victoria wish the best for the people of Ukraine. Victoria mentions that she was born in St. Petersburg (Leningrad at the time) and emigrated as part of the Jewish exodus from the Soviet Union in the late '70s. She fears for the repercussions of the sanctions of the Russian people for years to come, but her heart goes out first and foremost to the people of Ukraine.Alrosa and Russian ControlThe conversation pivots to discussion of Alrosa, the biggest diamond producer by volume, responsible for 30% of the world’s diamonds. It's one-third owned by the Russian government, one-third owned by the local Siberian province, and one-third publicly traded. By most standards, Alrosa takes social responsibility and social benefit seriously, meeting all of the current standards in the industry. The fact that Alrosa is directly tied to the Russian government poses a problem for it. Russian diamonds are going to be impacted greatly, Rob predicts. At the end of the day, who ultimately owns and benefits from a company is extremely important.Russian Diamond Demand Victoria brings up a statement made by Martin Rapaport on Russian diamond prices, in which he was clear that he didn’t believe prices would suffer because of the invasion, but because of the resulting inflation of things like gas, which influences consumer demand. Rob and Victoria both believe that the perception of Russian diamonds will be affected for years to come, as people will choose diamonds from other countries over diamonds from Russia.Russian Gold and Lab-Grown Diamonds Victoria wonders about Russian gold—and if Russia will be using gold to fund their regime, a thorny question that is yet to be answered. Who jewelers get their gold from is another question for jewelers to consider as sourcing, vendors, and who owns those vendors remains as important as ever. Rob predicts a bill will be enacted banning the purchase of Russian gold. Victoria predicts a lift in American-mined and -sourced gold because of this. Rob also brings up lab-grown diamonds. Victoria mentions a company in Barcelona, Spain, that markets itself as “mining-free diamonds.” Rob thinks this label is a bit disingenuous since you need mined products to create lab-grown ones.AGTA and Doug HuckerAt the end of the podcast, Victoria pivots to some non-Russian news. Rob wrote a
Tue, 15 Mar 2022 - 23min - 92 - Episode 64: Guest Holly Wesche
You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with Holly Wesche, owner of Wesche Jewelers about everything from rocket launches to lessons learned in the past two years.Show Notes01:20 The JCK editors introduce Holly Wesche, owner of Wesche Jewelers.03:50 Holly describes how she got started in the jewelry industry.07:10 Holly remarks on the tremendous success Wesche Jewelers has seen in the past two years.09:00 The group discusses the paradigm shift that has occurred in the past two years in retail.17:20 How have store events changed at Wesche Jewelers?19:30 Victoria asks what product trends Holly has seen.21:00 Rob asks Holly about the benefits of her involvement in associations.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapIntroducing Holly WescheRob and Victoria introduce their guest, Holly Wesche, owner of Wesche Jewelers. She is based in Melbourne, Fla., on "the space coast," near Cape Canaveral. They move on from rocket launches to how Holly's career launched. Holly describes how, despite her family's business, she fell into jewelry retail by chance. Growing up, she had not considered entering the industry. When Holly was in school studying journalism, she started a part-time job at a jewelry counter to make a little money. That's when she was "bit by the jewelry bug." When Holly got serious about her new career path, her dad had a heart-to-heart with her about taking up the family trade. He warned her to know how difficult it is to own one's own business, but he knew she would be successful.Wesche Jewelers' Success Amid The PandemicWesche Jewelers has had a strong few years recently. In 2021, they were up 48%—and that was after a very successful year. Wesche has experienced double-digit growth over the past two years, which surprised Holly and has caused her to feel gratitude. During the quarantine period, Wesche Jewelers was closed for six weeks. While the store was closed, Holly looked at the store's budget and mapped out worst-case scenarios. However, once the store reopened, business immediately began to boom. At first, she thought it was the boomerang effect and waited for the bubble to burst, but it never did.Dealing With a Paradigm Shift in RetailHolly describes how things shifted for Wesche during the pandemic and how her team was able to adapt. They were already doing curbside pickup and virtual sales, but these used to be the exception instead of the rule. Her team was well-equipped to take those skills and put them into their everyday business practice. Another example is online payments. Wesche had been looking into the Podium payment platform before the pandemic, but COVID accelerated their adoption of it. The company also improved e-commerce on its website. One of the big lessons Holly learned from this experience is always to look forward and not wait for a disaster to force her to think outside the box.Setting IntentionsThe pandemic forced retailers to improve e-commerce and adapt to meet customers where they are. Holly describes the different ways Wesche has adapted to become more intentional about the digital side of its business. She asserts that the in-person and digital experience are very intertwined,
Tue, 01 Mar 2022 - 25min - 91 - Episode 63: Tucson Gem Shows, Kering, and Small Diamonds
You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about the Tucson gem shows, Kering's sale of two watch brands, small diamonds, and Rob’s new book.Show Notes00:30 Victoria talks about her time at the Tucson gem shows.09:19 Rob shares his thoughts on the sanctions on Burmese gems.14:26 Victoria and Rob discuss luxury conglomerates such as Kering.21:23 Rob recently wrote a story on how hot small diamonds are becoming. He also shares information on his new book, Murder Is Not A Girl’s Best Friend. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine, (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)robbatesauthor.com (http://robbatesauthor.com/)Show RecapArizona’s Tucson Gem ShowsVictoria just came back from the Tucson gem shows, which typically have a huge international presence, but this year drew more of an American audience. She says the dealers had really great shows, with growing interest in rare and unusual stones. One of the most expensive gems at the show was an 80.26 ct. Burmese royal blue sapphire, with a retail value north of $10 million. Victoria says the fact that this gem was displayed at the show is proof of the strength of the marketplace. People are willing to buy high-priced gems. However, Victoria says mining is still feeling the effects of the pandemic.Gem SanctionsRight before Tucson, Rob says the U.S. government put out a business advisory (https://home.treasury.gov/system/files/126/20220126_burma_advisory.pdf) warning dealers to make sure they are not sourcing gems from Myanmar (also known as Burma) because of the sanctions against the major gem miners there. Victoria wonders how these kinds of bans are enforced, and Rob says he doesn’t believe they are. If the government really wanted to enforce them, it would have to be clearer in what they actually want people to do.KeringKering is a conglomerate of luxury brands (Gucci chief among them), and it's just recently sold two watch brands, Girard-Perregaux and Ulysse Nardin. Victoria says Kering also has been really progressive in its sustainability efforts, and has been a real leader in that space. She talks about how watch brands generally have not been part of big conglomerates, and perhaps we are starting to see a return to that.Small Diamonds and Rob’s New BookRob just wrote a piece (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/small-diamonds-are-now-big/) about small diamonds and says they’re hot with prices going up. Interestingly, there also is a similar shortage on the lab-grown diamond side. Pivoting at the end of the podcast, Victoria joyously announces that Rob just had his second book published! The book, Murder Is Not A Girl’s Best Friend, is a sequel to his first, A Murder Is Forever.
Tue, 15 Feb 2022 - 25min - 90 - Episode 62: Guest Emily Stoehrer
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with Emily Stoehrer, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.Show Notes00:30 The JCK editors introduce Emily Stoehrer, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston.10:18 Emily explains how she brings the jewelry collections together.17:11 Victoria asks if there are any gaps in the collections at the Museum of Fine Arts.19:30 Emily discusses founder Susan Kaplan, designer Wallace Chan, and the intersection of jewelry and technology.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazineShow RecapIntroducing Emily StohrerRob and Victoria introduce their guest, Emily Stoehrer, the Rita J. Kaplan and Susan B. Kaplan Curator of Jewelry at the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston. She’s the country’s only dedicated jewelry curator. Emily has an undergraduate degree in psychology and originally planned to go into law but ended up going to FIT to study textiles and fashion. She then went back to Boston to work at the Museum of Fine Arts as an intern. She also began work on a Ph.D., which enabled her to study jewelry theory and material culture. She now serves as a curator in the museum to a global jewelry collection that spans 6,000 years and has 22,000 objects. As a fashion historian, she’s interested in the ways jewelry and fashion intersect.How The Collections Are CreatedVictoria asks Emily where the pieces in the collection come from, how they vet them, and how they put it all together. Emily says the majority of pieces in the museum come in as gifts, but they also purchase works of art. As far as the jewelry collection goes, those pieces are mostly from excavation in the Nile Valley in Egypt and Sudan. Only 1%–3% of the collection goes on view. With new technology, they can update the descriptions of the jewelry, as their stories are always evolving. Victoria asks what a few of Emily’s favorite pieces are.Gaps in the CollectionVictoria wonders if there are any gaps in the collection, and Emily says over the past few years she’s been looking to add pieces created by women jewelers, and going forward she’s looking to add pieces by artists of color. She’s recently added a piece by Winifred Mason, a teacher of Art Smith and one of the most well-known artists in the studio jewelry movement. Her work will be shown in an upcoming jazz exhibition at the museum. Rob asks how hard it is to get people to come into the jewelry wing, and Emily says combining different displays and grouping pieces together from fashion and jewelry brings more attention to the jewelry.Susan Kaplan, Wallace Chan, and Tech in JewelrySusan Kaplan endowed the jewelry gallery but recognized that someone would need to be on staff to know all about that jewelry. Rob asks if Emily thinks jewelry is underappreciated as a historical category—Emily says yes. Emily speaks of her contribution to Wallace Chan’s new book on his butterfly collection. She hopes to add a piece of his to the museum's collection. Victoria asks if AI will make its way into the collections at some point, and Emily believes eventually it will, but she’s not especially interested in the intersection of jewelry and technology yet, as it’s just getting started.
Tue, 01 Feb 2022 - 28min - 89 - Episode 61: Holiday Sales, Ben Bridge, Pandora, Robbins Brothers, and Tucson
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about Ben Bridge and Pandora, the Tucson shows, and predictions for 2022.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob talk about how 2021 was a good year for the jewelry industry.09:15 Seattle-based Ben Bridge is divesting from Pandora, and Rob explains what that means for the franchise.13:16 Rob and Victoria discuss where the ownership of Robbins Brothers, another West Coast company, lies.17:16 Victoria is excited to go to the Tucson gem shows.21:35 Victoria recounts her article interviewing 22 people’s predictions on the jewelry and watch industry in 2022.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (http://instagram.com/jckmagazine)Show RecapSparkling SalesAfter talking about how the pandemic is going, Victoria mentions a 2021 “December to Remember” email she got from Abe Sherman, CEO of the Buyers Intelligence Group, reviewing just how good jewelry sales were across the industry. Rob and Victoria marvel over how successful the jewelry industry has been and how the jewelry market is potentially bigger than anyone expected. The question remains: How do we make this last?Ben Bridge and PandoraRob talks about Ben Bridge’s decision (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/ben-bridge-37-pandora-stores/) to sell its 37 Pandora franchise stores back to Pandora. These 37 stores comprise most of the Pandora stores on the West Coast. Pandora has gone back and forth between wanting to control its own stores and letting other brands control its sales. Rob then explores how he thinks Ben Bridge might grow in the future.Robbins BrothersRob briefly talks about another West Coast jeweler, Robbins Brothers, a 15-store chain owned by private equity, which has put together a new management-led buyout. (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/robbins-brothers-new-owners/)The Tucson Gem ShowsVictoria is going to Tucson for the gem shows! Centurion is opening at a new location this month. She spoke to (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/centurion-at-arizona-biltmore/) Howard Hauben, the organizer of Centurion, and he says they’re moving full steam ahead. The Tucson shows are as well. Victoria notes there will be supply constraints and prices rising on quality goods. The pearl market is also constrained due to the lack of harvest. A piece of advice? If you like something, buy it. Prices are expected to rise, so you’re going to want to grab what you can while you can.2022 PredictionsRob is hopeful that in March we’ll be able to have a nice 24 Karat Weekend. Victoria notes the Gem Awards have a really great roster as well. Thinking about this year and what to expect, Victoria recalls her article (https://www.jckonline.com/article-long/2022-jewelry-industry-predictions/) interviewing 22 people across the jewelry industry answering the question: “What is your boldest prediction for the jewelry and watch industry in 2022?” She says their answers were mostly positive, but there was a belief that people would be judged by their actions, meaning that you can no longer just boast about your values. You now must show how your business is aligning with them.
Wed, 19 Jan 2022 - 25min - 88 - Episode 60: Guest Alexis Padis
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with Alexis Padis, president of San Francisco–based Padis Jewelry (https://www.padisgems.com/).Show Notes00:30 Alexis tells the story of how she got into the industry.08:25 Victoria asks Alexis what the best and worst parts are about working in a family business.10:44 Alexis talks about the effect the pandemic has had on Padis.15:21 Alexis expresses worry over the next generation of jewelers.22:56 Victoria asks about sustainability in her store; Rob asks about Forevermark.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: Padis Jewelry (http://www.padisgems.com/), jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapIntroducing Alexis PadisVictoria and Rob's guest today is Alexis Padis, president of Padis Jewelry. Alexis is one of four kids, and she's the only one who ended up joining the family business after spending time in an entirely different industry. She tells the story of how after selling an engagement ring to one couple she decided she had to get into the jewelry industry herself. She explains how her parents got into the industry as well. Her dad dropped out of medical school to become a jeweler. While selling puka shells, he met Alexis' mom on the job when he started to buy clasps wholesale and she was the distributor.The Best and Worst of a Generational BusinessVictoria asks Alexis what the best and worst parts are about working in a family business. Alexis says the best and worst parts are the same: getting to know her parents as people. While some may put their parents on a pedestal when only seeing them at family gatherings, Alexis sees her parents all the time and has gotten to know them not only as generous, wonderful, and energetic people—but also as savvy business operators. She enjoys knowing her parents on this new level but needs to separate family from business. Alexis runs the front of the house and makes sure every location feels equal and has what it needs.The Effects of the PandemicAlexis became president in March 2019, and Victoria asks how she navigated that experience. Alexis explains how once 2020 came along, California was shut down, and retailers couldn't open their stores, so they ended up doing a pop-up store. She says 2020 and 2021 were successful business years, but when things were shutting down, it was quite the whirlwind. She learned to meet the consumers where they were with an omnichannel approach.Where Are The Future Bench Jewelers?Alexis expresses why she thinks it’s important for those already in the industry to mentor younger generations just entering the jewelry industry. She expresses concern about the loss of bench jewelers. Alexis has incredible retail experience on the sales floor but doesn’t have the bench skills that her father has. She fears there might not be a future generation of artisanal jewelry-makers if places like the Revere Academy continue to close. Alexis also talks about the opening of her Napa, Calif., store during the pandemic.Sustainability And De BeersVictoria asks Alexis, given that she is in San Francisco, one of the most progressive cities in the country, how many eco-conscious shoppers she has.
Tue, 04 Jan 2022 - 27h 26min - 87 - Episode 59: 2022 Predictions And Resolutions
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates make predictions for 2022 and some New Year's resolutions.Show Notes00:30 Rob a...
Wed, 22 Dec 2021 - 26min - 86 - Episode 58: A Look Back At 2021
In This EpisodeJCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) look back and reflect on the past year.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob remember their colleague Donna Borrelli, who died last month.05:44 Rob follows the trends on bridal and watches.10:00 Jewelry is art, Baselworld isn't happening, and some IPOs are booming.17:13 Victoria talks about Patek Phillippe and Tiffany & Co.'s long history.22:17 Rob and Victoria discuss the jewelry industry outside of the United States.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapIn MemoriamVictoria and Rob remember their colleague, Donna Borrelli, who was the associate publisher of JCK for 17 years and passed away due to complications from COVID-19. Rob also looks back on the other greats of the jewelry industry who have passed away this year.What's HotAll in all, the jewelry industry has performed remarkably well throughout the pandemic. Rob notes many predict a wedding boom in 2022—and that means a boost to engagement and wedding ring sales. Victoria mentions that watches are also a hot commodity, and diamonds are accruing value. Rob backs up Victoria’s claim on watches by saying that Gen Z and younger populations are getting into timepieces, which is helping the industry flourish.Jewelry as Art, Baselworld, and Noteworthy IPOs Victoria’s newest piece (https://www.nytimes.com/2021/12/06/fashion/art-jewelry-sienna-patti-louisa-guinness.html) in The New York Times is about jewelry as art. She asks which kinds of jewelry are art and which kinds are not. Rob brings up Baselworld, which, after so much back and forth is still not going to happen in 2022. There have also been several IPOs this year—most notable in the jewelry industry, Brilliant Earth. Rob says Brilliant Earth was ahead of its time in promoting traceable diamonds.Patek Phillipe and Tiffany & Co.Victoria also broke some news in The New York Times about LVMH’s newest acquisition, Tiffany & Co. The acquisition was finalized in January, and there have been a ton of interesting things coming out of Tiffany since then. Victoria spoke (https://www.nytimes.com/2021/12/06/fashion/watches-patek-philippe-nautilus-tiffany.html) of the limited-edition timepiece created by Patek Phillippe and Tiffany. Victoria talks about the companies’ long history together, and she predicts this will be an incredibly sought-after watch.The Jewelry Industry AbroadLuxury brands are responding to Chinese consumers where they want to be met. Consumers in China are hyper-focused on digital, and Victoria has done a lot of thinking about how luxury brands dealing with Chinese consumers can trickle down to American consumption. Victoria and Rob also talk about the end of the war in Afghanistan and what effect that has had on the jewelry industry. To wrap up the podcast, Rob and Victoria cover the aftereffects of 2020’s racial efforts to shine a light on Black jewelers. One of the most important sales was Sotheby’s Brilliant & Black, which featured 21 of the world's leading Black jewelry designers.
Tue, 07 Dec 2021 - 27min - 85 - Episode 57: Guest Scott Lachut
In This Episode You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with Scott Lachut, partner and president of research and strategy at PSFK.Show Notes00:30 Rob and Victoria introduce their guest, Scott Lachut, partner and president of research and strategy at PSFK.06:40 Scott explains what PSFK does best.11:37 Rob asks if physical retail will remain post-pandemic.14:33 Scott gives advice for preparing for the digital future.19:58 The metaverse and how it will intersect with the role of luxury.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (http://jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapIntroducing Scott LachutRob and Victoria introduce Scott Lachut, partner and president of research and strategy at PSFK. Founded in 2006, the company is concerned with the future of retail, from content to digitalization to omnichannel. Scott is a futurist and trend consultant. In his early career, he ran a moving company, worked in kitchens, and as a writer before he arrived at PSFK. Rob asks what kind of information Scott takes in, and he says he looks at micro trends with a 1–5-year horizon.Retail Focused Scott’s focus is on retail, customer experience, and brand experience. PSFK comes out with a prospective on the future of retail every year. They use these reports for some of their conferences, one of which was recently on predictions of what retail will look like in 20 years’ time. Victoria asks what some of the highlights of this conference were. Scott speaks of the “meta mall,” the “omni consumer,” the “creator economy,” and the “on-demand brand,” all of which he explains.Where Does Physical Retail Stand? Rob asks with all the changes from COVID-19 on consumers’ shopping experience if Scott thinks retail will go back to normal once the pandemic is over. Scott says he’s very much in favor of physical retail and that he doesn’t think that retail is going away, but bad physical retail will. He also believes that the convenience of shopping online will stay. People also turn to digital when they want to do research on a product before buying. What digital doesn’t excel at yet is the emotional and social connection that physical retail provides.How Retailers Can Prepare for the Digital FutureVictoria asks how Scott might advise jewelry retailers to prepare for the digital future. Scott says retailers need to embrace the change, since moving digital is inevitable. It’s all about trying to figure out where your audience is. For example, Scott says you’re now able to reach very niche audiences through smaller platforms such as Discord and Reddit. You must experiment and be OK with failing and trying again. The one important thing that retailers need to adopt is text and chat, as people still need some way to communicate and develop relationships. Scott thinks the beauty industry is one sector doing exceptionally well in adopting technology. He also discusses membership-based retail.The MetaverseVictoria brings up the metaverse and asks Scott if we should all be jumping on the digital train and how the metaverse will intersect with luxury. Scott says that Morgan Stanley reports that the metaverse has the potential to become a $50 billion industry. Scott believes that virtual worlds with avatars in the metaverse will be places to socialize, work, and shop, but that it won’t replace living, breathing human interactions.
Tue, 23 Nov 2021 - 25min - 84 - Episode 56: Sustainability and Holiday Marketing
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about sustainability in the industry, holiday predictions, and a new De Beers ad campaign.Show Notes00:30 As the 2021 United Nations Climate Change Conference continues, Rob and Victoria discuss sustainability.07:40 Victoria relays key points from her conversation with an industrial ecologist on sustainability practices.13:35 According to the industrial ecologist, recycled materials aren’t always the answer.19:50 Rob talks about the the National Retail Federation’s holiday season predictions.22:50 De Beers has a new holiday marketing campaign.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapPurpose-Led vs. Money-LedVictoria and Rob discuss Halloween and all of its disposable decorations as a segue into their conversation about sustainability in the jewelry industry. Sustainability is rightfully on everyone’s mind as UN leaders meet in Glasgow, Scotland, for their Climate Change Conference. Rob says so many brands are now saying they’re purpose-led rather than money-led. Sustainability of jewelry is now one of those things that is nearly as important as design and price these days. How sustainable someone is has also become a sort of status symbol.The Biggest Environmental SuckVictoria mentions Cartier and Kering, who have teamed up in partnership with the Responsible Jewellery Council, announcing their watch and jewelry initiative to be sustainable by 2030. She also discusses research she did asking people in the watch industry how they’re being more sustainable—with answers from changing their packaging to moving away from relying on animal agriculture for their watch bands. However, you’ll also hear about her conversation with an industrial ecologist, and he gave a completely different answer on the worst, most unsustainable practice.Why Recycling Isn’t Always The AnswerSustainability is one of those things that should be frightening to everyone since it will affect everyone for decades to come. Victoria mentions the circular economy and to explain its complexity brings up that there’s a kind of recycled steel that some in the jewelry industry wanted to use just because of its recycled nature. The industrial ecologist she spoke to says that if people are using this special steel to make jewelry when they can just use regular steel, they’re actually taking this valuable resource away from places where it would bring more benefit. Rob says at the end of the day, the real solution is to buy less stuff—an impossible task in a materialistic world.Predications for the Holiday SeasonVictoria and Rob pivot to discussing the upcoming holiday season. The National Retail Federation predicts that retail sales will increase from 8.5% to 10.5% over last year. They question what might be causing this predicted boom in sales. Rob thinks people aren’t spending as much on clothes because people aren’t going out as much, and they aren’t traveling as much as we thought they would be at this point either. Rob says he believes this holiday will be another one focused on sentimental themes.De Beers And Their 2021 Holiday CampaignThe new De Beers holiday campaign is built around the phrase “I do,
Wed, 10 Nov 2021 - 25min - 83 - Episode 55: Guest Gina Drosos
In This Episode You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with Gina Drosos, CEO of Signet Jewelers.Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Gina Drosos, CEO of Signet Jewelers.11:30 Gina tells a story about her appreciation of sentimental jewelry while growing up.14:15 Gina explains how she sees the culture of the jewelry industry.17:14 Rob asks Gina about her average day, and Gina tells Rob what she loves doing most.21:02 Rob and Gina talk about what they expect 2021 holiday sales to look like.25:08 Gina discusses Signet's acquisition of Diamonds Direct and her thoughts on lab-grown diamonds.Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: Signet Jewelers (https://www.signetjewelers.com/our-home/default.aspx), jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/)Show RecapIntroducing Gina Drosos Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Gina Drosos, CEO of Signet Jewelers. She’s calling in from about an hour and a half outside of Atlanta, from Lake Oconee. Gina joined the Signet board in 2012, and she’s been CEO since August 2017. She says she’s always wanted to work in an industry where she feels as though the product makes a difference in people’s lives. She also explains how she likes “transformation opportunities,” and what she means by that. She also talks about her experience working in other companies before she landed at Signet. One of those companies she's particularly proud of is Olay.The Road to SignetVictoria asks Gina what led her to Signet Jewelers. Gina says that while working at Procter & Gamble, she was looking for an opportunity to serve on an outside board, and she ended up finding Signet. Rob asks if Gina had an affinity for jewelry growing up, and she says she would always play in her mother’s jewelry box. While her mother didn't have a large collection, all of her pieces were meaningful. On Gina's 18th birthday, her parents bought her her very first piece of fine jewelry, a diamond cocktail ring from Friedman’s.Our Industry CultureVictoria asks Gina how her experiences outside the jewelry industry compare to those she’s had inside. Gina says the culture of the jewelry industry is unrivaled. She says that there’s a family feel all the way through the supply chain, a connectedness that she’s never felt before. Second, she says that the supply chain is different and the industry is intellectually complicated. Third, Gina says, the industry is very fragmented, as there’s room for independent jewelers. Even with Signet being as large as it is, it still only has a 7% market share. Jewelry is a massive industry, with room to grow.What Gina Loves MostRob asks Gina what her average day looks like. While the “average day” has changed quite a bit over the last two years, Gina says her best days are when she’s out in the stores. She enjoys seeing Signet's mission of inspiring love come to fruition in the lives of its customers. She also says she loves being in the distribution center. Seeing product being made, product coming in from different countries, checking its quality,
Wed, 27 Oct 2021 - 37min - 82 - Episode 54: Watch Sustainability, the HardRock Summit, and the Pandora Papers
In This Episode You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director
Wed, 13 Oct 2021 - 24min - 81 - Episode 53: Guest Sean Kell
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director
Tue, 28 Sep 2021 - 28min - 80 - Episode 52: Thoughts From The JCK
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director
Thu, 09 Sep 2021 - 453100h 29min - 79 - Episode 51: Guest Kate Youngstrom and the JCK Show
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) ...
Tue, 17 Aug 2021 - 24min - 78 - Episode 50: JCK Las Vegas, Tiffany, and Rolex
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about the new Tiffany campaign, Rolex, and diamond tracking systems. Show Notes00:51 The JCK Show is coming up, and Rob and Victoria excitedly wonder how it will go.05:36 Rob talks about how Tiffany & Co.’s new campaign is ruffling some feathers.11:50 Rolex has increased market share over the course of the pandemic, and the JCK editors talk about the brand.17:46 Alrosa came out with nanotechnology to track its diamonds. Rob explores the technology's applications. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: JCK Show, (https://lasvegas.jckonline.com/en-us.html) jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap The JCK Show Victoria and Rob talk a little bit about the JCK Show coming up later this month. They both have been making appointments, and Rob will be on a panel. Victoria thinks this will be a very different Vegas than what we’re used to, but she says it’ll be a very special one as we all come back together for the first time. Not Your Mother's Tiffany Rob recently wrote about Tiffany & Co.’s new campaign, which has been a bit controversial. Some are attributing the company’s new campaign slogan, “Not Your Mother’s Tiffany," to 29-year-old Alexandre Arnault, who oversees the brand’s communications. He’s the son of Bernard Arnault, LMVH chairman. Rob says Alexandre is trying to “hip up” the brand—but wonders if the new campaign is too cheeky. Some mothers are offended by the campaign, as it dates the Tiffany they know. Victoria brings up the Mercedes Benz campaign featuring Janis Joplin that isolated its core consumer but ended up working well for the brand. Rolex, Unsurprisingly, Stays on the Rise Victoria pivots to talking about the watch industry, specifically Rolex. The brand has gained market share over the course of the pandemic. Victoria spoke to a fellow editor in the watch space, who said that other watch companies looking to gain market share shouldn’t compare themselves to Rolex: “We all live on planet watchmaking, but they’re on planet Rolex.” Victoria brings up the brand since Tourneau has recently opened up an adjoining Tudor–Rolex boutique in New York City's Meatpacking District. New Diamond Tracking Technology Rob talks about tracking diamonds through the supply chain. Alrosa just came out with a system that uses nanotechnology, a part of the gems' molecular structure, to track its diamonds. Rob mentions that some people are concerned about hacking and security. However, this technology should be able to bring more transparency to the industry when it comes to origin, traceability, and trackability. But Alrosa’s tracking technology doesn’t just have to be about tracking where diamonds came from. It may also be useful for those wanting to track their diamonds if they happen to be stolen, so there are plenty of uses for this tech.
Tue, 03 Aug 2021 - 23min - 77 - Episode 49: Guest Alan Revere
In This Episode You’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with Alan Revere, award-winning jewelry designer, author, and founder of the now-closed Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts. Show Notes00:50 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Alan Revere.07:16 Alan got his start with jewelry in Germany, and he explains what he did once he got back to the United States.11:00 Alan tells the JCK editors what the jewelry industry was like back in the ’60s and ’70s.13:04 Alan discloses which jewelers have stuck out to him.15:47 The Revere Academy closed in 2017, and Alan explains his feelings on that time.18:58 Now retired, Alan lets listeners know what he's up to these days. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jcklasvegas.com (https://lasvegas.jckonline.com/), jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing Alan RevereVictoria and Rob briefly mention this year’s new issue of JCK magazine, which is all about JCK Las Vegas, now taking place in late August. They then introduce their guest, Alan Revere. He is the past president of the American Jewelry Design Council, founder of the Contemporary Design Group, and founder of the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts in San Francisco. He’s now retired in Lucas Valley, in Marin, Calif., living in a midcentury modern home. He grew up in Great Neck, N.Y., but trained in Germany. Here he tells the story of how he got involved in the jewelry industry. How Alan Got His StartAlan tells us he dropped a potential career in law for the arts in the ’70s. Victoria asks about what happened when he came back from Germany in 1974 and landed on the West Coast. Alan says he got a job as a bench jeweler in Oakland, Calif.. It was there that he learned how to do repairs, resize rings, fulfill custom orders, and the like. At the California College of the Arts, Alan taught a small class—which eventually led to him teaching from his studio, and then his home. In 1979, he established the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts. Industry Changes in the ’60s and ’70s Rob says we think a lot about how the ’60s and ’70s were a big time for change in arts and design, and asks Alan what school of design he belonged to. Alan says in the ’60s, contemporary jewelry started to come of age, but no one was selling under their own name. By the ’70s, that had all begun to change, when a range of trends began to bloom and jewelers started their own name brands. At that time, Alan says people had more money than they knew what to do with, so it was a better time for buying jewelry. Who Stands OutVictoria asks Alan if he taught CAD at the Revere Academy, and he explains that he did, but seldom. For him, creating jewelry is best when done with your hands. He’s a craftsman who wants to touch the materials—but he recognizes how useful today's technology is. Changing subjects, Victoria asks which of Alan's students have really stood out. Alan says James Binnion, a metaler; Mary-Lee Rae an enamelist; and Dana Bronfman, a newcomer to the space. He also mentions Kirk Bloodsworth, the first convicted inmate to be released because of DNA evidence, who then released a line of jewelry for others who have been exonerated. Though Alan says there is no other academy like his as none are all-encompassing as his was, there are a few he likes.
Tue, 20 Jul 2021 - 24min - 76 - Episode 48: Watches of Switzerland, Alex and Ani, and Marketing Innovations
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about Watches of Switzerland, Alex and Ani, and marketing innovations. Show Notes00:55 Victoria talks about her trip to New York to see Watches of Switzerland's new campaign.07:02 The jewelry industry is doing well.09:25 Rob explains how Alex and Ani declined into bankruptcy.16:49 Victoria discusses her article for The New York Times in which she talks with top minds in marketing.20:14 The president of research and strategy at the New York–based company PSFK told Victoria about developing technology called "digital twins." Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: Zing by Jewelers Mutual (https://zing.jewelersmutual.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIreWth9nO8QIV-25vBB2MxAJ7EAAYASAAEgIHffD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds), jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap New York Is Back! Plus Watches of Switzerland Shows Off Victoria and Rob kick off the podcast by talking about Victoria’s recent trip to New York, her first visit to the city since the pandemic started. She was in New York for a press trip, sponsored by Watches of Switzerland to celebrate its newest campaign: Anytime, Anywhere. The brand showed off its watches in a spectacular video created by a creative director hired specifically for the job. Watches of Switzerland will have an Airstream parked in the Hamptons in New York through August to show off its watches. Victoria and Rob also briefly talk about how New York has changed since the beginning of the pandemic and where peoples’ dispensable income is going. A Thriving Industry Rob says lab-grown and natural diamonds are doing well. The fear was that these two industries would cannibalize each other, but so far that hasn’t happened. Retail sales are up, and people are ready for the pandemic to be over. Victoria pivots to mention a company called Threads Styling, a chat-based platform with an Instagram account. If consumers like what they see, they can start a chat via WhatsApp with a personal shopper and talk about the pieces they're interested in. Now, the company has its own shop on Instagram. Rob mentions Signet is also doing well. Alex and Ani and Bankruptcy Victoria gives a quick counter to all the optimism we’ve heard so far of booming retail sales: Alex and Ani has gone bankrupt. Rob explains the brand was once one of the biggest in the industry, valued at over a billion dollars. However, last month it filed for Chapter 11. Alex and Ani's interim CEO has said the company faced three main problems: macro trends driving customers away from brick-and-mortar retail, explosive growth in the early 2010s that resulted in operational challenges, and significant turnover in management. Rob also explains the company’s link to a spiritual healer and the ways in which its mobile app used customer data. What's Next for Watches Victoria held a trio of interviews for an article called “What’s Next for Watches (https://www.nytimes.com/2021/06/18/fashion/watches-future-predictions.html)” which ran in The New York Times on June 19—asking her interviewees what's coming in the watch industry and retail at large. The first person she spoke to is an expert on consumer psyche, who held conversations with consumers on what they need to feel good about purchasing something.
Tue, 06 Jul 2021 - 24min - 75 - Episode 47: Guest Casey Melvin
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with guest Casey Melvin, cofounder and co-CEO of the Future of Jewelry. She'll be describing what the company she and her sister started offers and how it's different from traditional jewelers. Show Notes00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Casey Melvin.07:08 Casey describes the Future of Jewelry platform.10:20 Casey talks about how she differentiates her company from those of traditional jewelers and describes her consumer.13:05 Victoria asks if the Future of Jewelry has had any investors, and Casey describes the types of rings consumers can create on the company's website in greater detail.20:30 Rob asks Casey what the future of her company looks like. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Riley McKascleProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: thefutureofjewelry.com (https://thefutureofjewelry.com/), jckonline.com (http://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing Casey Melvin Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Casey Melvin, cofounder and co-CEO of the Future of Jewelry. Casey entered the jewelry industry in 2016. Before that, she was in law school. It was during law school that she studied abroad in the United Kingdom with her sister. One weekend in Spain, they were looking for a piece of jewelry to mark their trip to the country. She found a signet ring that she loved and wanted to surprise her sister with one—but the rings were either extremely expensive, or extremely cheap. From there, they both got into 3D printing for their own brand of customizable signet rings. The Future of Jewelry Platform Casey tells the JCK editors a little bit about the platform the Future of Jewelry uses that allows buyers to design their own ring on its website. You don’t have to be a designer in order to create your signet ring. You can choose the band, engraving, and kind of metal, all of which helps you make a ring that's completely unique and personalized. If you have access to a 3D printer, you can also buy a design file of the ring you design and 3D-print the piece yourself. (https://www.jckonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/TheJewelryDistrict-SigentRing-175x300.png) How the Company Stands Out Victoria asks how Casey’s platform fits in to the world of more traditional jewelry. She believes that her company stands out as it democratizes jewelry at a lower price point. She wants her consumer to be a part of the design process. She says she imagines the Future of Jewelry buyer to be in their 20s or 30s, someone with a bit of disposable income, who wants a piece that stands the test of time. Casey says the company has attracted a lot of customers by word of mouth, and she wants to create direct relationships with her customers. The Ring and Company Inventory Victoria asks Casey if the company had any investors, and Casey answers that it's just been her and her two sisters (though she's received some advice from Mark Cuban; he told her to keep the company in the family, advice that she took to heart). As for the ring itself, you can engrave it with a monogram, roman numerals, icons, dates, geographical locations, and more. Victoria asks if this kind of personalization is coming soon to other companies—Casey doesn’t think so.
Tue, 22 Jun 2021 - 25min - 74 - Episode 46: India, Kay + Zales, and De Beers Forevermark
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about how COVID-19 is affecting India, the Kay + Zales combo stores, and the De Beers Forevermark rebranding. Show Notes 00:30 While New York City and Los Angeles are doing okay in terms of COVID-19, the situation in India is looking bleak.06:27 Rob discusses what stock prices are looking like in India despite the pandemic.12:36 Kay and Zales have come together to form Kay + Zales. Rob and Victoria offer their thoughts.18:32 Forevermark rebranded recently. Why? And what does Gen Z think? Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Riley McCaskillProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Stuggles In India Victoria and Rob talk about how things seem to be going back to normal in Los Angeles and New York City, as people start leaving their homes more after being inside for so much of 2020. Unfortunately, the same can’t be said for India, where 132,788 new cases of COVID-19 were reported on June 1. Victoria recently reached out to Tarang Arora, who is part of the family that owns Amrapali. He’s involved in an initiative called Find a Bed, which helps place people in hospitals in India. Where Are India's Stock Numbers? Rob looks at India from an industry perspective and reports that its stock levels in jewelry were very high before the country was hit so hard by COVID-19. In fact, its stock numbers were higher in March 2021 than they were in March 2020, before the country experienced a spike in COVID-19 cases. Victoria wonders whether India is now experiencing the same things the United States did in 2020 as far as buying and selling—such as people being home more often and buying jewelry to pass the time. Rob also relays an interesting news story about fraudulent letters and bank loans from one Indian company. Combining Forces: Kay + Zales Victoria asks Rob to explain a story (https://www.jckonline.com/editorial-article/signet-kay-zales-combo-stores/) he wrote recently about a Kay and Zales combo-store concept, Kay + Zales. Since malls haven’t been getting the same traction they once did, the two competitors (both owned by Signet) decided to combine forces and share the same store space. Will this idea be successful? Time will tell. You’ll also hear from who Rob calls his “JCK spy." They visited the store to see what the commotion was about, and he relays his informant's thoughts. Victoria applauds the stores' innovation and willingness to try something different. What's in a Name? Recently, Forevermark rebranded itself as De Beers Forevermark. The reasoning behind this move, Rob explains, is that LVMH once had rights to use the De Beers name commercially, but once De Beers bought the company out, De Beers wanted to consolidate its brands under the same name. We have yet to see if the De Beers name will make any difference to the Forevermark brand. Victoria wonders what members of Gen Z know of the brand name De Beers, if they know it at all.
Tue, 08 Jun 2021 - 24min - 73 - Episode 24: Guests Sarin Bachmann and Kate YoungstromMon, 03 Aug 2020 - 24min
- 72 - Episode 23: Guest Oliver Smith
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview Oliver Smith, owner of Oliver Smith Jeweler in Scottsdale, Ariz. He discusses the changes he’s made to his online presence that have helped his business during COVID-19. You'll also hear that how he recently opened up a new store in Aspen, Colo. Show Notes00:30 Introducing Oliver Smith, owner of Oliver Smith Jeweler06:58 Victoria asks about watches; Rob asks about jewelry11:30 Victoria asks about the Zoom auctions that Oliver has been running15:35 Oliver discusses the chat function he’s implemented on his website17:47 Oliver talks about opening up a new store during COVID-19 Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Katey Clifford and Kathy PasseroPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing Oliver SmithOliver Smith is the owner of Oliver Smith Jeweler based in Scottsdale, Ariz. He’s been in the jewelry business since 1981 and talks about his experience, from his start outside of Philadelphia to California, to opening his store in Arizona. Oliver opened up a second location in Aspen, Colo., over the July 4th weekend. He covers what’s going on in Arizona due to COVID and how they’ve been running their store despite the back and forth on reopenings in the state. Watches, Jewelry and "Cars and Cigars"Victoria asks Oliver about his start in watches, the survival of the Swiss watch, and its impact on his business. Oliver expresses his love for the aesthetics of the jewelry industry and how it keeps him going. He recounts a heartwarming story about the origins of “Cars and Cigars,” which originally started as one client coming to pick up jewelry one Sunday before Christmas, and has evolved into a shopping event where his clients come around on the last Sunday before every Christmas to shop, talk cars, and of course, have a cigar. Making the Most of Zoom AuctionsOliver explains how he uses Zoom to interact with his clients and sell jewelry. In order to keep his business booming during this time, he sends out an auction invite to all of his clients, and they join him for a live auction over Zoom. He’s been using this platform to sell jewelry that he wasn’t selling otherwise, and now this has become a regular way for him to sell jewelry. You’ll also hear him give advice about how he does it and what he’d do differently in doing it again. Keeping Your Clients EngagedPodium offers a chat function that retailers can add to their website so clients can ask questions and get fast answers even when you aren’t in-store. Oliver explains how he has implemented this function on his site and uses one of his employees, Ryan, to man the chat. This allows him to complete transactions with people he never would have been able to otherwise. Opening a New StoreDespite the difficult times most everyone has been facing during the pandemic, Oliver continued on with his plans to open up a second location.
Mon, 13 Jul 2020 - 24min - 71 - The Jewelry District, Episode 22: The Industry Copes With COVID-19
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) discussing this summer’s retail landscape as some states ease their COVID-19 restrictions. Show Notes00:50 Rob discusses statistics on the retail landscape.05:47 With an increase of COVID cases in some states, Rob wonders how long places can stay open.08:38 Victoria discusses some recent digital innovations in the watch industry.13:33 Rob and Victoria hope businesses maintain online aspects post–COVID-1917:05 Rob and Victoria wrap up by discussing some business's resistance to moving online. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Katey Clifford and Kathy PasseroPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Retail Sales on the RiseRob talks about retail sales going up—the biggest one-month rebound in history. Forty million people lost their jobs—but personal income is up because of things like the stimulus check, unemployment, etc. What will happen when government-finance purchasing power ends? Wealthy consumer spending has gone down. More than 20% of luxury jewelry revenue comes from travel. Opening Up AmericaRob talks about how differently openings across America are happening. With an increase in COVID-19 cases, how long will reopenings last? Victoria emphasizes the importance of having an online presence and working e-commerce. Rob and Victoria discuss the importance of customers wearing masks. Digital InnovationVictoria talks about growing digital innovations. While some watch sites have launched e-commerce lately, there has been resistance to do so in the luxury market. Buyers still want to hold onto that touch-and-feel experience that you simply cannot get online. Victoria also mentions one of the recent innovations in the watch world—an augmented reality filter allowing for holographic viewing of a watch on your wrist. Victoria tells a story about a Zoom happy hour with clients. A New NormalVictoria hopes to maintain some of these online aspects once we all go back to normal. Nonetheless, people still love hearing from another person when they’re making large purchases, so a combination of an online and in-person presence works best. Resistance to ChangeThere is still resistance from businesses with regard to moving online. Victoria and Rob talk about Patek Philippe selling online for the first time ever—which they soon stopped in April, just a month after starting. While wrapping up, Rob expresses that he is hopeful for the future—as independent retailers are the backbone of communities across America and JCK.
Mon, 29 Jun 2020 - 20min - 70 - The Jewelry District, Episode 21: Guest David Kellie
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview guest David Kellie, chief executive officer of the Natural Diamond Council (previously the Diamond Producers Association). David discusses the company's rebranding, his thoughts on the lab-grown diamond industry, and diversity in the industry. Show Notes00:52 Rob and Victoria introduce David Kellie, CEO of the Natural Diamond Council05:54 David discusses the rebranding of Diamond Producers Association to the Natural Diamond Council10:27 Victoria asks about stores reopening, and Rob asks about weddings, engagements, and lab-grown diamonds14:43 Rob asks about opportunities in the diamond industry, and Victoria asks about the Jeweler Support Network18:08 Rob asks about the logistics of Natural Diamond Council’s upcoming campaigns20:58 Victoria asks about the Natural Diamond Council's new website, and Rob asks about diversity in the industry Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Katey Clifford and Kathy PasseroPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing David KellieRob and Victoria introduce their guest David Kellie, CEO of the Natural Diamond Council. David was previously with Watches of Switzerland Group and helped with its marketing and communications. Before that he was with the Ralph Lauren Corp. for 15 years, which helped him transition to his career in the luxury sector. Rob asks David about the difference in how outsiders see the diamond industry versus how it is on the inside. David says he wants to downgrade the challenges in the diamond industry—and that there are great opportunities ahead. Rebranding to Natural Diamond CouncilDavid tells Rob that the Natural Diamond Council will do its best to fill the void in marketing and advertising that has existed for the past 10 years. Victoria asks about the company name change, and David says with an audience that consists mostly of millennials who get all of their information online, more time and money needs to be invested there. David says he wants to build strong digital platforms around the world. Engagements, Weddings, and Lab-Grown DiamondsDespite all of the store closings in the last few months due to COVID-19, David feels consumers will return to stores once they feel safe to do so. Rob asks about engagements and weddings, and David explains how he feels about the rest of this year. When Rob asks about lab-grown diamonds, David says lab-growns will have a place in the market in the future, but it will remain small compared to natural diamonds. He’s ready to promote anything that is exciting in the industry. Millennial AudiencesRob asks David where big opportunities are, and what we are underserving as an industry. David says everyone has not been the best at digital—which effects the millennial audience. David believes that it will be all about connections, relationships, friendships, and celebration coming out of this pandemic, as well as reminding consumers about diamonds in the context of all of those occasions.
Mon, 15 Jun 2020 - 23min - 69 - The Jewelry District, Episode 20: Guest Kate Peterson
In this EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview guest Kate Peterson, president and CEO of Performance Concepts. They'll discuss stores reopening around the country, changes in consumer behavior, and educational resources to help your business come out of this crisis prepared. Show Notes00:25 Introduction of Kate Peterson, president and CEO of Performance Concepts.03:08 Rob asks Kate what she’s hearing about reopenings around the country.09:10 Kate explains what companies have to do when reopening.14:20 Kate discusses employee-employer relations.17:40 Kate explains the best way for people to educate themselves during this time. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Katey Clifford and Kathy PasseroPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing Kate PetersonKate Peterson is president and CEO of Performance Concepts and is based in an old stomping ground of Victoria’s—Montgomery Village, Md. The state of Maryland has begun to reopen, but the area immediately surrounding Washington, D.C., is still closed. Kate started out in the jewelry industry working in a store at just 16. She was director of training at the original Kay Jewelers in Alexandria, Va., and training director of Sterling, as well as vice president of training for Littman Jewelers. This was all before she decided to branch off on her own with a business partner in the late 1990s to create Performance Concepts. Now they work with trade organizations; design training programs for retailers; and work with retailers directly to provide training services, organizational design, management development, and general consulting. Changing Consumer BehaviorRob asks Kate what they’re hearing as far as reopening and sales, and Kate says she sees no real consistency across the country. She is, however, seeing some pent-up demand as stores reopen—but that seems to fizzle out after a week. Those who are most successful are those who have put time in over the last two months figuring out what they had to do differently. You’ll hear Kate talk about the biggest changes in consumer behavior and how to prepare for dealing with those changes. Handling the ReopeningRob asks Kate how most people are handling the reopenings, and Kate emphasizes that no matter what companies do they must be consistent. Companies must take a stand on their procedures and stick to them—for instance, if they're requiring people wear a mask. Another helpful hint is to tell people what you can do, not what you can’t—and to think of ways you can present yourself positively to your customers. Employee-Employer RelationsThere are restrictions across the country about how many people are allowed to be in a store at one time—and that includes yourself, your employees, and customers. With such limitations, it’s possible not all of your employees can return to business as usual. Kate suggests if you’re paying your employee to stay at home, you can tell them to volunteer their time toward their community,
Wed, 03 Jun 2020 - 23min - 68 - The Jewelry District, Episode 19: Guest Bruce Cleaver
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) conduct their first intercontinental podcast as they interview Bruce Cleaver, chief executive officer of the De Beers Group. You’ll hear them discuss what's going on in the diamond industry, including production, supply and demand, and sustainability. Show Notes00:30 Introduction of Bruce Cleaver, CEO of the De Beers Group03:55 Rob asks how the diamond industry is doing in the face of COVID-1909:54 Rob asks what we can expect regarding production this year, and Bruce recaps the enormous relief efforts De Beers has provided to countries of mining communities15:41 Rob asks about supply and demand19:17 Vic asks about Lightbox and how stores in the United States can begin to reopen22:51 Rob asks about new sustainability projects such as Tracr and reducing carbon footprint Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Katey Clifford and Kathy PasseroPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Bruce Cleaver, CEO of the De Beers GroupBruce Cleaver has been with De Beers since 2005. He has been a board director since 2008 and CEO since 2016. He was born in South Africa, but now lives just outside of London, making him the first intercontinental guest The Jewelry District has seen, as Rob and Victoria chat from the United States. Bruce explains his background and how he came into the diamond mining industry. Diamond Sales During COVID-19Rob asks if diamonds are being sold despite the global affects COVID-19 has had on all industries—and Bruce says yes. China has bounced back well, and sales are improving. The rest of the world hasn’t seen as high of a demand, however. You’ll also hear Rob ask about how business is doing on a wholesale level rather than just retail. The diamond industry is a global, interconnected one, and where there is demand, De Beers is determined to service it. Diamond Production and COVID-19 ReliefYou’ll hear Rob ask what we can expect regarding production this year. Bruce says that all of the mines are in slightly different places, and the company wants to start things back up when the time comes in the safest way possible. In better news—De Beers has made significant contribution to COVID-19 relief across South Africa and Canada. It's working to keep mines open and working with governments to step up health care, set countries up with top of the line testing, and other health supplies such as thermometers and food donations. It has also donated $200,000 through UN Women for gender-based violence relief. Supply and DemandYou’ll hear Bruce talk about supply and demand in the diamond industry, including how last year we saw production peak, so we’re likely to see less production toward the end of the crisis than there was before it began. De Beers spent $170 million in advertising last year, and it's committed to driving demand. Coming Out of the Crisis and Lab-Grown DiamondsVictoria asks Bruce about Lightbox and the demand for lab-grown diamonds,
Mon, 18 May 2020 - 27min - 67 - The Jewelry District, Episode 18: Guest Rhett OuttenMon, 04 May 2020 - 22min
- 66 - The Jewelry District, Episode 17: Guest Abe Sherman
In this EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview Abe Sherman, founder and CEO of the Buyers Intelligence Group. You’ll hear Abe talk about why it is so important for jewelry retailers to carefully manage their inventory and balance sheets during the COVID-19 crisis. Show Notes 00:30 Introduction of Abe Sherman3:24 Rob asks Abe if there is anything he knows now that he wishes he knew earlier7:44 Victoria asks how our current situation is impacted by the COVID-19 crisis12:28 Rob asks about operational cost cuts, Victoria asks about what Abe says to suppliers, Rob asks about reserve funds21:03 They discuss what will happen post-COVID-19, what jewelry will be popular, how to best advertise, and getting your online presence in order Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Katey Clifford and Kathy PasseroPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Abe Sherman, Founder and CEO of Buyers Intelligence GroupAbe started working for his father at their family jewelry store in 1968, when he was just 10 years old. Over his years in the jewelry industry, he has become quite the expert. His company, Buyers Intelligence Group, started as a buying group, and now they do financial and inventory benchmarking. Abe explains that his company helps jewelers take the numbers from the income statement of their balance sheet and explains how to use those numbers to help their businesses. The Jewelry Business Is Tough. The Family Jewelry Business Is TougherRob asks Abe if there’s anything that he knows now that he wishes he knew when he was first starting out. Abe gives a bit of background on his family business. Inventory planning, inventory management, marketing, and positioning were all things they didn’t completely understand back in the '60s and '70s, but are more important now than ever—especially with the internet connecting us all globally. Additionally, Abe argues the jewelry industry operates different than any other—and this added complication is something he helps companies to work through. Looking Ahead to a Post-COVID-19 WorldVictoria asks Abe how our current situation is impacted by the pandemic. Abe says that going forward, cash flow is going to be a challenge. Jewelry doesn’t have an expiration date like other industries, like food or car industries—so jewelers tend to hold on to their inventory. Abe stresses and explains how re-merchandising can be the answer to some problems people are having with getting older and nonperforming inventory out the door—and how this could help get cash back into the pockets of jewelers. What to Do on the Operational Side?Everyone is trying to figure out how to get out on the other side of this crisis in the best position they can. Abe suggests starting by visiting your CPA to study your reports line by line for every expense that comes into the company.
Tue, 21 Apr 2020 - 29min - 65 - The Jewelry District, Episode 16: Guest Sherry Smith
In this EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates interview Sherry Smith, director of business development at The Edge Retail Academy, sister company to The Edge. Sherry gives tips and guidance for jewelry retailers on how to navigate owning a retail business during COVID-19. Episode Credits Hosts: Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) and Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/)Editor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap00:30 Rob and Victoria introduce guest Sherry Smith03:18 Rob asks what her clients have been asking most these past few weeks10:30 Victoria asks what is the best course of action regarding employees13:21 Rob asks about what retailer’s online and social media presence should look like15:05 Rob and Sherry discuss the dangers of operating a business during this time23:18 Victoria asks what our retail world will look like on the other side of this crisis Show Recap Sherry Smith, Director of Business DevelopmentRob and Victoria introduce their guest Sherry Smith, director of business development for The Edge Retail Academy. She mentors around 200 companies about best retail practices, and she has received an increased volume of retailers who need help navigating their businesses during the COVID-19 crisis. Before joining The Edge Retail Academy, Sherry owned and operated a jewelry retail store and has hands-on experience running a store during both steady economic times and periods of recession. What Should Companies Do Right Now?Rob asks Sherry what the most common questions she has received from the companies she mentors are—and Sherry tells us she gets a lot of questions about what retailers should do with their employees and their bills. There is a little bit of nervousness during this time, and people are unsure of how to proceed. Victoria then asks what the most important things retailers should do right now, and Sherry weighs in about the best ways companies can be proactive. What to Do About Your Employees?Sherry reports that a minority of retailers have their employees on paid leave. That means many are either being laid off or furloughed—but being laid off means that employees can apply for unemployment benefits. Sherry reminds us that retailers must look at where they want to be on the other side of this crisis and at what actions can be taken to get them there. Your Online and Social Presence MattersOnline presence always matters, whether it be on social media or a retailer’s website—but it matters now more than ever since face-to-face communications have slowed across the country. Sherry gives recommendations about how to keep up with your customer base during this time in a way that is authentic and helpful to your customers. Security RisksMany jewelers are conducting business out of their homes, and some are even going into their stores to keep up with business as best they can. There are security concerns with bringing jewelry home, as that could make jewelers' homes a target for crime.
Mon, 06 Apr 2020 - 29min - 64 - The Jewelry District, Episode 15: Interview with Ruediger Albers
Note: This episode was taped on March 2, and does not reflect the latest news regarding the coronavirus (COVID-19). In this EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview Ruediger Albers, watch expert and president of Wempe Jewelers. You’ll hear Victoria and Rob chat with Rudy about watches, retail, and what’s going on with the spring watch shows. Show Notes 00:50 Introduction of Rudy Albers05:59 Rob asks about the viability of multibrand stores. Victoria asks about trends10:53 Rob asks what the fascination with watches is16:24 Cancellation of spring watch shows, including Baselworld19:32 Wempe’s jewelry and celebrity clientele Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Ruediger Albers, President of Wempe WatchesRudy is the president of Wempe Jewelers and has been a member of the Wempe staff for 32 years. The son of a German watchmaker, Rudy followed in his father’s footsteps, working at his father's shop before becoming a master watchmaker for Wempe. Are Multibrand Stores Viable?Rob talks to Rudy about the viability of multibrand stores. Wempe Jewelers expanded their Fifth Aveune location in 2016, and they hold 20 of the finest brands. Rob wonders if watches appeal to millennial buyers, and, apparently, they’re an acquired taste. Many people have smartwatches now, which aren’t as big a seller at Wempe as some of its others, but Rudy believes both traditional and smartwatches can coexist peacefully in the same market. Trendy Watches and High DemandThere are certain watch brands that are in incredibly high demand. Two of which are Rolex and Patek Philippe. Rudy jokes that a reason his hair is going gray is because people come in and ask to purchase a watch and don't realize there are incredibly long wait lists for some of the popular styles. The demand for watches is huge—but that also means some people are going to have competing prices, and others are going to attempt to create counterfeits. Show CancellationsBaselworld is one of the biggest shows to have been canceled this year. (It's been rescheduled for January 2021.) Rudy has been going for 32 years, and this will be the first one he’s missed. Watches & Wonders Geneva has also been canceled for this year. For Rudy, there’s nothing quite like going to the shows in person and getting to see and feel watches up close—so these events will surely be missed. Wempe Jewelers, Beyond the WatchesWempe Jewelers is, of course, known for selling watches, but it's more than just that. Wempe also sells jewelry. Recently, Mariah Carey performed“ All I Want For Christmas Is You” for her 25th-anniversary event and wore a $500,000 necklace from Wempe. You’ll also hear Rudy tell a few stories of other celebrity clientele, including Sylvester Stallone and Robert De Niro. (Image courtesy of Wempe Jewelers)
Mon, 30 Mar 2020 - 22min - 63 - The Jewelry District, Episode 14: Coronavirus, Spiking Gold Prices, and Fashion Week
Note: This episode was taped on March 2, and does not reflect the latest news regarding the coronavirus (COVID-19). In This Episode In this episode of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk about the visible effects of the coronavirus (COVID-19) on their hometowns in New York and California and what effects it continues to have on the jewelry industry at large. You’ll also hear them talk about how the international scene has affected gold prices and what’s trendy at fashion week. Rob and Victoria wrap up with a Weird Story of the Week. Show Notes 00:30 Rob and Victoria discuss the effects of COVID-19 08:55 Rob brings up how we’re seeing a spike in gold prices 10:33 Victoria discusses the trends we’ve been seeing throughout fashion week 12:03 Weird Story of the Week Episode Credits Hosts: Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) and Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) Editor: Olivia Briley Producer and engineer: Natalie Chomet Plugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Keep Calm and Wash Your Hands In early March, everyone was beginning to grow a little fearful of COVID-19, colloquially known as coronavirus. Rob has noticed an increase of people with face masks walking around and an abundance of Purell in the office. COVID-19 has caused the cancellations of both Baselworld and SIHH—and you'll hear what that could mean for those shows in the future. Gold Prices Spike COVID-19 isn’t the only international event that’s having an effect on the jewelry industry. New hostilities in the Middle East are causing the price of gold to spike at $1,600. In 2018, the average price for the year was just below $1,300—and this year people are predicting the average will be at $1,500. Hear what that means for people who own a bit of gold! Trends of Fashion Week Fashion week pushed on regardless of coronavirus-induced panic. Victoria notes the trendiest things to hit the runway were pearls, fringe, feathers, and solid gold links. If you’re not at fashion week—what can you do? Stay home and support your local businesses! Weird Story of the Week: Toilet Edition Rob tells another Weird Story of the Week—and this one’s a trip. A Dubai, United Arab Emirates, museum and art gallery has revealed a diamond-encrusted toilet, introduced by Coronet, an Aaron Shum jewelry brand. With 4,815 diamonds (334 cts. t.w.) valued at $1.28 million, it could make anyone’s trip to the restroom sparkle. The jeweled throne even set a Guinness World Record for the greatest number of diamonds set on a toilet bowl.
Mon, 16 Mar 2020 - 15min - 62 - Episode 13: John J. Kennedy
In This EpisodeIn this episode of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview John J. Kennedy, president of the Jewelers’ Security Alliance, otherwise known as JSA. Kennedy, with his background in criminal law, crime prevention, and law enforcement, talks about how JSA works to prevent jewelry crime. You’ll hear about what goes on in the minds of criminals, whether guns are a good preventative measure, and what mistakes jewelers often make that could jeopardize the safety of their company. Show Notes 00:30 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest John J. Kennedy04:47 Rob asks about the founding and mission of JSA09:50 How jewelry crime happens12:37 Discussion of different types of crime, including cybercrime15:18 Rob asks Kennedy his opinion of jewelers having guns in their stores18:01 Rob asks about security mistakes jewelers make and preventative measures they can take Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap John Kennedy, The Man Behind JSARob and Victoria introduce their guest, John Kennedy. He is the president of JSA, and he’s been in that role for the past 28 years. Kennedy has an extensive legal background, serving at different points of his career as an attorney, the assistant commissioner of the New York City Department of Investigation, and the chairman of the New York City Department of Criminal Justice. All of these skills have prepared him for working alongside his team at JSA to prevent jewelry crime, and you’ll hear about his daily workflow that helps to make the industry safer. The Jewelers' Security Alliance Founding and FunctionThe JSA is nearly as old as JCK. Since it was founded in 1883, it has only had four full-time presidents, including Kennedy. That’s some serious dedication. During nearly a century and a half, Kennedy says the mission has not changed—it's focused on preventing crime in the jewelry industry. You’ll hear Kennedy talk about why he’s so dedicated to the position, and why the association is so valuable—especially when zero jewelers were killed during the commission of a crime last year, which is a first since record keeping began in the early '80s. How Does Crime Happen?Kennedy has accumulated much knowledge on jewelry-related crime. You’ll hear how crime is organized by gangs, who is helping these people, and the ways in which criminals follow jewelry trends to make themselves aware of what’s hot—for the taking. All Kinds of CrimeCybercrime isn’t something that JSA focuses on in the way one might think. The cybercrime that JSA is involved with is performed with some human contact, through phone and emails. You’ll hear how criminals build up relationships and establish social connections with jewelers before committing fraud. And those outside of the industry aren’t the only ones committing crimes. Some jewelers get themselves wrapped up in fraudulent ways as well. Insurance—More Valuable Than Guns?
Mon, 02 Mar 2020 - 21min - 61 - Episode 12: The Oscars, Tucson Gem Shows, and De Grisogono
In this EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) discuss all the noteworthy jewelry seen at this year's Oscars. You’ll also hear them talk about Victoria’s trip to the Tucson gem shows and the focus on sustainability practices there. Rob gives us the rundown on all things involving the bankruptcy of de Grisogono USA and then lightens the mood with a Domino’s-themed Weird Story of the Week. Show Notes00:30 Victoria gives the scoop on the Oscars and jewelry07:53 Victoria talks about her trip to the Tucson gem shows and sustainability practices15:13 Rob discusses the bankruptcy of fine jeweler de Grisogono19:00 Weird Story of the Week Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap White Diamonds at the OscarsVictoria arrived home from the Tucson gem shows just in time for the Oscars. This year, as in recent years past, colored gemstones took a backseat while white diamonds stole the spotlight. There were big stars in big diamonds, as large statement pieces were a common theme. Hear Rob talk about how important product placement is in shows like these. Tucson Gem Shows and Sustainability Victoria talks about her stay in Arizona for February's Tucson gem shows. You’ll hear what the mood of the shows were and whether the recent outbreak of the coronavirus had any effect on attendance. You’ll also hear Rob and Victoria talk about the continued importance of sustainability in the jewelry industry. De Grisogono: Leaked Files and BankruptcyFine jeweler de Grisogono was recently in hot water over the case of some leaked files connected to stakeholder Isabel dos Santos. De Grisogono USA has now declared bankruptcy following the bankruptcy of their Swiss division—and dos Santos, along with husband Sindika Dokolo, now face criminal charges. Hear what Rob and Victoria think of the details leading up to the downfall of de Grisogono USA and what consumers should consider when choosing the companies they engage with. Weird Story of the Week: A Conversation “Pizza”Rob tells us a new Weird Story of the Week, and this time it’s all about pizza! Domino’s Australia is holding a contest—just submit a video of how you’d use Domino’s in your engagement to your beloved. Rob reveals the prize: Not only will Domino’s bring your engagement plan to life, and cater your wedding with pizza, but you’ll also win an 18k pizza-shape ring worth more than $9,000, featuring ruby pepperoni and diamond cheese.
Tue, 18 Feb 2020 - 22min - 60 - Episode 11: Guests Hayley Henning and Erik Jens
In this Episode In this edition of “The Jewelry District,” you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview a couple for the first time. Hayley Henning, who is an expert in colored gems and is also vice president of sales and marketing at Greenland Ruby, and husband Erik Jens, an expert in diamond industry financing and a strategic partner for companies in the luxury industry, talk about their respective companies, climate change, and JCK Tucson. Show Notes00:31 Rob and Victoria introduce Hayley Henning and Erik Jens11:20 Henning discusses Greenland Ruby15:04 Jens compares the colored gem industry to the diamond industry17:38 Rob and Victoria ask Henning about Greenland and climate change24:56 All things JCK Tucson26:23 Rob asks Jens about his background at ABN AMRO31:13 Rob asks Jens what he sees as the biggest problems in the industry Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Levi SharpeProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing the Power DuoRob and Victoria introduce their guests Hayley Henning and Erik Jens, a couple in the jewelry industry who have been married for three years. You’ll hear the story of how they met at a conference in Moscow and became industry friends, which soon turned to more. Since they met at a conference, they also discuss conferences in general. They question whether conferences really add value and make a difference at all in the face of things such as sustainability. Colored Gemstones Are a Diamond’s Best FriendHenning talks about her experience in the colored stone world. You’ll hear all about Greenland Ruby, where she is the vice president of sales and marketing. She’s fascinated by the originality of the location of gemstones and the process by which these stones go from Greenland to the market. She makes sure to not leave her diamond-industry expert husband out of the mix, as she notes how colored gemstones really are a diamond’s best friend. Jens expands on this. Climate Change and Greenland, the Untapped ResourceRob asks Henning about the independent and autonomous country of Greenland. What Henning finds so interesting about Greenland is the fact that it sits atop one of the world's biggest and richest mineral deposits. It’s an untapped resource that has been under ice and snow for millions, if not billions, of years. Rob also asks about climate change and what that means for the Arctic region. The Pink Polar Bear Piñata PartyVictoria is excited for JCK Tucson and asks the couple if they’ll be making an appearance. Henning and Jens say yes—as they will be hosting the Pink Polar Bear Piñata Party (say that three times fast!). The Pink Polar Bear is a foundation, not for polar bear research, as the title may suggest, but for international polar research, to help all species affected by climate change. Erik Jens: Finance Extraordinaire Jens talks about his background in, and passion for, the world of finance. Jens has experience in banking,
Mon, 27 Jan 2020 - 41min - 59 - Episode 10: JCK Tucson, the Golden Globes, and TiffanyThu, 16 Jan 2020 - 25min
- 58 - Episode 9: Best of Weird Stories 2019
In This Episode In the latest installment of “The Jewelry District,” you’ll hear a compilation of our Weird Stories of the Week. You’ll hear quite a few stories from JCK’s news director, Rob Bates, about people’s consumption of jewelry—but not in the way you might think! You’ll also hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky tell us what her favorite Weird Story has been. Show Notes 00:30 Victoria introduces her favorite Weird Story 01:10 A Moo-ving Proposal 03:55 Hard to Swallow 07:05 Hungry for Wealth 10:07 Tesla Trouble 13:35 Should You Fire That Hippie? 16:30 No Laughing Matter Episode Credits Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyJCK Staff: Emili VesilindEditor: Levi SharpeProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (http://jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap A Moo-ving Proposal Social media was abuzz with ring-shamers, animal advocates, and those looking to jump on the bandwagon with bovine-puns when a farmer from Singapore proposed to his girlfriend by placing a diamond engagement ring on a cow’s udder. Hard to Swallow A woman dreams she swallowed her ring to protect it from a jewelry heist. On waking up, her ring was nowhere to be found. After going to urgent care, it turns out she really did swallow the ring while sleeping! Is there a happy ending to this weird story? Listen to find out! Hungry for Wealth Doctors remove a whopping 1.6 kilograms (3.5 pounds) of jewelry from a 22-year-old woman’s stomach. That jewelry totaled £53,000 ($64,310)! When the woman was suffering from abdominal pain, she decided to go to the doctor. What the Bengali doctors found was striking: 69 chains, 80 earrings, 46 coins, 8 lockets, 11 nose rings, 5 anklets, and 1 watch dial—all in her stomach! Somehow, her family didn’t expect anything, as the jewelry went missing over a length of time. Tesla Trouble Ben Baller, the man who created a $400,000 diamond and ruby ring for Elon Musk, got locked inside of his own Tesla for 40 long minutes. While stuck, he posted video of the incident to his Instagram feed. Conflict and conspiracy theories ensued. Should You Fire That Hippie? An article that was published in 1975 with an inflammatory title is the focus of this weird story. Did the article make points that are still relevant to the industry today? How does it reflect on millennials and their attitudes? No Laughing Matter
Mon, 23 Dec 2019 - 19min - 57 - Episode 8: Guest Sally Morrison
In This Episode In this edition of “The Jewelry District,” you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview Sally Morrison, the chief marketing officer of Lightbox Jewelry. The three talk about how Morrison got into the industry and her own impressions of coming up in the diamond industry. You’ll also hear her discuss how society is changing, her partnerships with designers, and about the sustainability and ethics of diamonds. Show Notes 01:45 Sally Morrison talks about how she got into the industry. 14:20 Rob questions Morrison on our changing society and ad campaigns that try to keep up. 18:45 Victoria asks Morrison how she teams up with designers; Rob asks her about social media. 24:00 Morrison tells us about Lightbox Jewelry. 34:39 Morrison talks sustainability and ethics in the diamond industry. 38:00 Some final thoughts from Morrison about Lightbox and what it's like to be a woman in the jewelry industry. Episode Credits Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky Editor: Levi Sharpe Producer and engineer: Natalie Chomet Plugs: jckonline.com (http://jckonline.com), @jckmagazine (http://instagram.com/jckmagazine) Show Recap How Sally Morrison Jumped Into the Jewelry Industry Morrison had a long career in different industries in the United States before she got her start in jewelry. On getting her first job at Diamond Information Center, she relates what she learned and her first impressions of the industry. Women self-purchasing diamonds and people’s changing attitudes toward gold jewelry also pop up in the conversation. Morrison shares what ad campaigns she thinks should be emulated. Changing Times Call for Changing Measures Morrison realizes that there’s a need to keep up with cultural changes and trends. Rob and Morrison talk about early De Beers ad campaigns and their effect on the diamond industry, even years later. Morrison also enlightens us on the importance of partnering with designers. Of course, social media is always something to keep in mind in these changing times, and Morrison talks about the difficulties in navigating that terrain. Lightbox Jewelry As the chief marketing officer of Lightbox Jewelry, Morrison certainly knowns the ins and outs of the lab-grown diamond industry. Rob questions Morrison on whether Lightbox helped legitimize lab-grown diamonds—and Morrison has something to say about the word legitimacy. Morrison reflects on the commercial potential she saw in the brand and why 2017 was the right time for takeoff. Can There Be Transparency or Ethics in Sustainability? As Rob and Victoria covered in the last episode, there’s certainly a lot to discuss when it comes to jewelry sustainability and ethics. Victoria asks Morrison about responsibility in ad campaigns for sustainability and ethics promises from company to company. When asked, Morrison talks about how she sees promises of sustainability functioning for Lightbox. The episode wraps up with thoughts about Lightbox and what Morrison thinks about being a woman in the industry.
Mon, 09 Dec 2019 - 41min - 56 - Episode 7: NYC Jewelry Week, Sustainability, and New De Beers Research
In This Episode In this edition of “The Jewelry District,” you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) cover the latest news, including NYC’s Jewelry Week, and growing concerns over sustainability and how it will affect fine jewelry sales. Rob covers a talk by the Yurmans and a fascinating panel on jewelry ecommerce. The weird story of the week features a dream that comes true, but not necessarily in a good way! Show Notes 00:50 Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky recap NYC’s Jewelry Week, including a talk held by David and Sybil Yurman. 5:45 Rob talks about a panel he was on about ecommerce and jewelry sponsored by eBay. 9:00 Victoria shares why she has been preoccupied about sustainability lately. 16:46 Victoria ponders if there is a product out there that’s 100% sustainable. 20:58 Rob covers the new De Beers research and what it says about our society and the jewelry industry 25:25 Weird Story of the Week Episode Credits Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky Editor: Levi Sharpe Producer & Engineer: Natalie Chomet Plugs: jckonline.com (jckonline.com), @jckmagazine (instagram.com/jckmagazine) Show Recap NYC Jewelry Week Rob relates some interesting tidbits that he learns at the talk held by David and Sybil Yurman during Jewelry Week. They shed light on how their life growing up in the 60s and 70s colored their business. Rob also discusses the panel he was on about ecommerce and jewelry, in which designers talked about how to establish themselves on different ecommerce platforms. The Sustainability Question: Who Passes The Test? In doing research for a panel she organized, Victoria meets an Instagram influencer who is a proponent of zero-waste and hasn’t bought a piece of jewelry in many years. Victoria finds it fascinating because there are not many jewelers who would meet these high standards of sustainability. She’s interested in seeing how the relationship between fine jewelry and green living evolves over time. New De Beers Research and a Rapidly Changing Society The research raises the question: Is the industry keeping up with larger changes in society, such as changing norms about marriage and commitment, and growing concerns over the environment. Rob talks about how proposals have changed over time, and how the bridal industry bases its business on perhaps an outdated standard in our culture. Weird Story of The Week May Be Hard to Swallow A woman dreams that she swallows her ring to protect it from a jewelry heist. When she wakes up, she was unable to find the ring, so she went to urgent care, where it was confirmed that she did in fact swallow it in her sleep! Listen to find out if there’s a happy ending to this tale.
Mon, 02 Dec 2019 - 28min - 55 - Episode 6: Guest Bill Furman
In This Episode This episode of “The Jewelry District” pays tribute to JCK magazine’s 150th anniversary. JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with a panel of JCK writers about fascinating discoveries they made while combing through the vast expanse of the JCK archives. The weird story won’t be from this week—but 1975 instead! Interspersed throughout the episode, you’ll hear the voices of current and past employees as they reflect on their experiences working at this historic publication. You’ll also hear Rob and Victoria interview Bill Furman, former ad manager, who spent 46 years working at JCK. He’ll share how he got there and some amazing memories from along the way. Show Notes 00:36 Victoria and Rob give an overview of the 150th anniversary issue. 3:10 Victoria kicks off the conversation with a few notable things she learned in her research. 8:40 Rob relates a great quote from Marty Hurwitz of MVI Marketing about his impression of JCK. He also shares the ad that former editor Peggy Jo Donahue answered when she began working at JCK. 10:20 Rob shares a weird story from 1975, “Should You Fire That Hippy?” 12:55 Hedda Schupack talks about her favorite story from working at JCK. 15:50 Victoria introduces the panel of JCK writers and tees up Melissa Bernardo’s story. 16:22 Melissa talks about the amazing covers she found when doing her research, including which eras had the oddest, ugliest, and most beautiful covers and ads. 19:55 Melissa explains how the cover of the 150th anniversary issue was created. 21:15 Emili Vesilind (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/emili-vesilind/) talks about what she discovered while researching the fashion retrospective she authored. 25:35 Ettagale Blauer shares a favorite moment from working at JCK: interviewing Lazare Kaplan. 26:22 Russell Shor talks about his history working at JCK and his journey to India for work. 27:50 Amy Elliott (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/amy-elliott/) relates her process as she researched her piece on pearls, including what coverage JCK had on Breakfast at Tiffany’s and how it affected the popularity of pearls. 31:20 Brittany Siminitz (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/brittany-siminitz/) gives a peek behind the scenes of her epilogue, where she talked to young people in the industry about what the top issues would be in 50 years. 33:45 Mark Smelzer reflects on his favorite experience at JCK. 35:55 Robert Weldon reveals the most important thing he covered while at JCK: East African gemstones. 36:09 Victoria and Rob interview Bill Furman, who worked at JCK for 46 years. Episode Credits Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky JCK Staff: Melissa Bernardo, Amy Elliott, Brittany Siminitz, Emili Vesilind Guest: Bill Furman JCK Voices: Ettagale Blauer, Hedda Schupak, Russell Shor, Mark Smelzer, Robert Weldon Editor: Levi Sharpe Producer & Engineer: Natalie Chomet Plugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine
Thu, 31 Oct 2019 - 53min - 54 - Episode Five: Guest Tiffany Stevens
In This Episode In the latest installment of “The Jewelry District,” you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates recap the latest news, including a Fashion Week recap and a look at how the trade war and tariffs on China will affect the industry. Victoria and Rob also cover the new JCK print and digital plan for 2020 and share a weird story of the week. You’ll also hear Rob and Vic interview Tiffany Stevens of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee on how she got there, what she does, and current issues concerning the JVC. Show Notes 00:45 Recap of Fashion Week and the jewelry trends and best jewelry so far. 07:42 Are the 90s coming back into fashion and what does it mean for jewelry? 09:10 Trade wars and tariffs on China, and how this affects the industry. 15:40 Overview of JCK’s print and digital plan for 2020, including change in magazine frequency. 17:50 JCK’s 150th Anniversary Issue—a print keepsake that will still have value. 19:10 Weird Story: A dairy farmer in Singapore proposed by putting a ring on a cow’s udder. 22:15 Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky interview Tiffany Stevens, President, CEO and General Counsel of JVC. 22:30 Tiffany covers her history and beginnings at JVC and what drew her to the jewelry industry. 24:44 Tiffany gives some background on JVC’s history, mission, and what they’re doing now. 27:20 Tiffany talks about how lab-grown diamonds affect the JVC mediation practice. 28:35 Rob asks Tiffany how consumers can get in touch with the JVC if they have an issue they want to bring to their attention. 29:45 Tiffany speaks on what the State Department asks of the industry regarding sourcing. 33:15 What you can do to show you’re compliant: filing suspicious activity reports. 39:00 Rob asks Tiffany how effective Anti-Money Laundering laws are in flagging things. 40:15 Tiffany speaks on the FTC guides and their aftereffects. Episode Credits Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky Guest: Tiffany Stevens Editor: Levi Sharpe Producer & Engineer: Natalie Chomet Plugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, jvclegal.org Show Recap Fashion Week Highlights Vic covers some of the best jewelry moments of the week, and some emerging trends that she has noticed. Some takeaways are a strong 60’s-70’s structural trend, especially from Marc Jacobs. These striking pieces show that fashion designers may be starting to acknowledge jewelry design and craft rather than adding jewelry as an afterthought. Ulla Johnson paired her outfits with pieces from Grainne Morton, a U.K. designer that does these sculptural earrings and necklaces with lots of dangling pieces. Another designer, Brandon Maxwell, paired denim outfits with colored stones and lots of chains. Vic has noticed chains as an emerging trend that will extend to 2020. Are The 90’s Making a Comeback? Vic and Rob notice that some 90’s styles are starting to make a comeback, and they speculate what it could mean for jewelry. Besides the Tin Cup pearl necklace, popularized by the movie it was named for, Vic can’t pinpoint any jewelry styles that were big in the 90’s, and characterizes it as a sad time for jewelry. She supposes that every time an era’s trends come back, they do so with a dash of the modern sprinkled in, which could bring some hope for jewelry trends moving forward. Trade Wars are Back 15% tariffs were put on products from China beginning on September 1st. Though many products were exempt, jewelry products were not among them. Though some large manufacturers say they are not affected, others are sorting through the chaos. Rob explains that it’s not as simple as not purchasing products from China. Many small parts, boxes,
Thu, 19 Sep 2019 - 45min - 53 - Episode Four: Guest Joe Thompson
Episode 4: Guest Joe Thompson In This Episode In the latest installment of “The Jewelry District,” you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates recap the summer news, including the first Jewelers of America Convention and an inside look at how the JCK 150th Anniversary issue is shaping up. You’ll also hear Rob and Vic interview Joe Thompson of Hodinkee on how he got his start at JCK in the 1970s, and the memories he has of the people he worked with during that time. Show Notes 01:00 Rob covers the highlights of the first Jewelers of America Convention. 01:55 A member of the State Department talked about the importance of traceability. 02:31 Rob led a talk on traceability and Blockchain. 08:00 The challenges and future of detection of lab-grown products. 11:02 JP Morgan economist talked about the economy vs. the jewelry and retail industry. 13:58 Victoria speaks on the 150th anniversary issue of JCK, and how people across all different time periods grappled with the same things. 18:20 Rob does the Weird Jewelry Story about doctors who removed a large quantity of jewelry from a patient’s stomach. 21:56 Rob introduces guest Joe Thompson of Hodinkee, who got his start at JCK in the 1970s. 25:30 Joe talks about his early days at JCK and what he found in the archives from that time period. 37:40 Joe describes the different watch revolutions he’s seen over the course of 40 years in the business, including the smartwatch revolution today. 41:15 The watch business used to be the pillar that JCK was built on, and now watch advertising in the industry has declined. Vic asks if Joe sees this as a continuing trend in the watch industry. Episode Credits Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky Guest: Joe Thompson Editor: Levi Sharpe Producer & Engineer: Natalie Chomet Plugs: jckonline.com (http://jckonline.com), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/), hodinkee.com (https://www.hodinkee.com/) Show Recap The First Jewelers of America Convention Rob attended the first annual JA Convention and recounts some of the talks that took place, including a sternly toned talk by a woman from the State Department on traceability. People were taken aback by her hard line. Rob led a panel on traceability and Blockchain. It’s something that the outside world is calling for, but it will be a challenge to figure out how to enact. Vic wonders if this will be easier to implement when technology catches up and Blockchain becomes a ubiquitous, household term. Inside the Anniversary Issue Vic has been diving into the archives and has seen that the same issues jewelers grapple with today are things the industry struggled with in the 1800s through today, including synthetic stones, how to sell certain stones or watches, survival of retail, etc. Vic reads certain sentences that—if it weren’t for the syntax—if they were from the past or present day. It helps build a feeling of camaraderie with our predecessors. Weird Story: Hungry for Wealth Doctors removed 1.6kg of jewelry from a woman’s stomach, worth £53,000. The woman was suffering from abdominal pain and went to the doctor. Baffled doctors in Bengal, India discovered the woman had 69 chains, 80 earrings, 46 coins, 8 lockets, 11 nose rings, 5 anklets, and 1 watch dial in her stomach. The coins likely came from her brother’s store,
Thu, 08 Aug 2019 - 44min - 52 - Episode Three: June Edition
In This Episode
In the latest installment of “The Jewelry District,” you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates recap their favorite moments from JCK Las Vegas and the highlights of its grand return to the Sands Expo.
You’ll also hear several interview snippets that Rob and Victoria captured live from the show floor, with Jennifer Dawes, Roger Kadet, Eddie Le Vian, Charles Stanley, Iris Van der Veken, and more.
Show Notes
00:49 Victoria Gomelsky and Rob Bates recap their favorite highlights from JCK Las Vegas.
06:20 Victoria and Rob go over key takeaways from the show.
discuss some of the talks they attended on lab-grown, traceability, and sustainability.
11:33 Interview from show floor Ben Hakman from Diamond DNA.
15:02 Lightbox presentation recap: Lab-grown diamonds.
20:10 Victoria interviews Omi Gems and Omi Privé’s Niveet Nagpal.
24:01 Victoria and Rob discuss the President of Botswana’s speech and the protester who made a brief appearance.
32:02 Rob cover’s the first lady of Botswana’s speech at the Forevermark breakfast.
32:56 Rob interviews Charles Stanley of Forevermark.
36:00 Select clips from Rob and Victoria’s interviews captured live from the show floor including Robbie Vanderlinden, Eddie Le Vian, and more.
Episode Credits
Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky
Guests:Jennifer Dawes, Ben Hakman, Roger Kadet, Eddie Le Vian, Niveet Nagpal, Charles Stanley, Iris Van der Veken, and Ronnie Vanderlinden
Engineer:Brett Fuchs
Editor: Levi Sharpe
Producer:Natalie Chomet
Plugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, jcklasvegas2019.com
Show Recap
The Talk of the Show
The mood at JCK Las Vegas was high, and people are thinking hard about ways to meet business challenges, including the launch of many new initiatives. Exhibitors and attendees alike were happy to make a triumphant return to the Sands. It wasn’t the most dramatic show, but in a positive sense. The new lab-grown pavilion shows acceptance of this product entering the market, and conversations about lab-grown diamonds are maturing. There’s less clash and controversy, rather a deepening of the sustainability and tracing conversations.
Interview Clip: Ben Hakman from Diamond DNA
Ben Hakman explains the way things have been evolving in different price points and categories of lab-grown diamonds. He believes the future is moving towards transparency regarding grow type, treatment type, and country of origin.
Thoughts on the Lightbox Presentation
Rob gives his reactions to the Lightbox presentation. Some thought that De Beers’ aggressive pricing last year was intended to push the lab-grown pricing down. Their perspective is that the pricing will come down anyway, and when it does, they will be well situated because they’ve had a chance to build their brand. That said, Rob has heard some wildly different predictions for lab-grown over the past few years. Victoria comments on the progress since last year’s presentation.
Interview Clip: Niveet Nagpal from Omi Gems and Omi Privé
People are loving the colored stones, rarer gems, and edgier designs. People aren’t shying away from more interesting pieces that tell a story. He describes his inventive window display and the concept behind it, called “A Gemstone Journey.”
President Masisi of Botswana’s Speech
President Masisi emphasized the connection between American retailers and the mining countries and people involved in production. Victoria remarked on the feeling of awe and respect at hearing this dignitary speak. The protester who interjected to voice her displeasure at Botswana’s lifting of the ban on elephant hunting momentarily shifted the emphasis of President Masisi’s speech, but he navigated it with grace.
Interview Clip: Charles Stanley from Forevermark
Charles Stanley speaks about the First Lady of Botswana’s speech. He found it inspirational. The benefit diamonds have given to Botswana, and importance of investing in their future. Forevermark has a new and timely bridal campaign that aims to be more relevant to the bridal consumer.
Interviews from the Show Floor
Ronnie Vanderlinden, President of Diamond Manufacturers & Importers Assn; United States Jewelry Council
Eddie Le Vian, Director and CEO of Le Vian
Iris Van der Veken, Executive director of Responsible Jewellery Council
Roger Kadet, Owner and CEO of Roger Kadet Ltd.
Jennifer Dawes, Owner of Jennifer Dawes Design
Tue, 25 Jun 2019 - 41min - 51 - Bonus Episode: JCK Las Vegas Excitement
Bonus Episode of the Jewelry District In This Episode In this bonus episode, you'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates share in some pre-show excitement for JCK Las Vegas with Yancy Weinrich, Senior Vice President at Reed. Yancy recounts how she got her start in the jewelry business, her memories from her first JCK Las Vegas show, and how much it has grown since. The team remembers what was so wonderful about the old Sands and teases what's new, improved, and exciting for this year's show. Show Notes 01:00 Yancy explains how she got her start at Reed and in the jewelry industry at large.02:48 Yancy talks about the first JCK show she attended and what she loves about the trade show business.06:25 Yancy and Victoria recall details about the show when it was at the old Sands.07:30 Yancy walks through the decision to move to Mandalay Bay from the Sands and back again.11:03 Victoria and Yancy talk about the Sunday night party at Tao and new restaurants.14:05 Yancy offers her top tips to be prepared during the busy show experience. 15:25 Rob asks Yancy about what's new and different this year.17:20 Rob and Yancy discuss Baselworld and the future of trade shows.19:00 Rob inquires about consumer and influencer interest in the JCK show.21:40 Yancy shares her favorite JCK show memories. Episode Credits: Hosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyGuest: Yancy Weinrich, Senior Vice President, ReedEngineer and Editor: Levi SharpeProducer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (jckonline.com), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/), jcklasvegas2019.com (jcklasvegas2019.com)
Tue, 21 May 2019 - 50 - Episode Two: May Edition
In This Episode
In the latest installment of “The Jewelry District,” you’ll hearJCKeditor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates discuss the gender discrimination and harassment allegations at Signet Jewelers. Victoria covers how watch retailers are embracing the secondhand market.
You’ll also hear a Weird Story of the Week about a jeweler/fan of Elon Musk who has a surprising issue with his Tesla! Rob and Victoria interview gem dealer Joe Menzie about his history in the industry, and gemstone expeditions around the globe.
Show Notes
01:10 Victoria Gomelsky talks about JCK’s history and what she’s found in the 150 years-worth of archives.
02:40 Victoria and Rob Bates talk about the bombshell report on Signet’s treatment of female employees over the years.
07:40 Rob covers the other struggles Signet is having with their retail stores and new marketing strategy.
09:20 Victoria covers watch retailers and their recent embrace of the secondhand market
12:40 Rob tells the “Weird Story of the Week”.
15:55 Victoria and Rob interview Joe Menzie, gem dealer and former president of ICA, about his career in the jewelry industry and the gemstone expeditions he leads
Episode Credits:
Hosts:Rob Bates and Victoria Gomelsky
Guest:Joe Menzie, gemstone dealer
Engineer and Editor: Levi Sharpe
Producer: Natalie Chomet
Plugs:jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, menzie.com
Show Recap:
Signet’s Alleged History of Gender Discrimination
Victoria and Rob react to the exhaustive New York Times Magazine cover story that details the many alleged incidents of gender discrimination and sexual harassment that took place in Signet Jewelers’ Sterling division over the years. Rob voices his opinion on how the company has responded since the article came out. Victoria underlines the overarching issue of when a company culture breeds this kind of behavior.
Retailers Embrace Secondhand Watch Market
Victoria interviewed Hamilton Powell, founder and CEO of Crown & Caliber about the pre-owned watch market’s increase in popularity. She sees it as a way to hedge against other issues in the marketplace. She also discusses Les Ambassadeurs’ recent partnership with WatchBox – a secondhand watch powerhouse.
Weird Story of the Week
Rob tells the story of Ben Baller who created a $400,000 diamond and ruby ring for Elon Musk. He then gets locked in his own Tesla for 40 minutes. Baller posts a video of the incident to his Instagram feed. Conflict and conspiracy theories ensue.
Interview with Gemstone Dealer Joe Menzie
Victoria and Rob discuss Joe’s storied career and how he ended up in the gemstone industry. Victoria reminisces about the first time she met Joe in Tucson, and his dependable insight into this unique niche of the jewelry world over the years. Joe talks about his trajectory, beginning in social work, to accounting, then finally finding his way to his grandfather’s gemstone dealing trade. He describes how he ended up as the president of the ICA. Joe also details some of his exciting gemstone expeditions, and Victoria recalls her experience at a tanzanite mine.
Thu, 02 May 2019 - 40min - 49 - Episode One: March Edition
March Edition on the Jewelry District, Episode One
In This Episode
In the March installment of JCK‘s new podcast, “The Jewelry District,” you’ll hear JCK senior editor Emili Vesilind talk about major jewelry moments at the Oscars and trends on the Fashion Week runways. News director Rob Bates covers the recent financial and legal troubles of retail-veteran Samuels Jewelers.
You’ll also hear a Weird Story of the Week about a dental assistant-turned-jewel thief! Rob interviews diamond analyst Ben Janowski, who shares an industry insider’s perspective on mined and lab-created diamonds.
Show Notes
1:10 Emili Vesilind discusses big jewelry moments at the Oscars with Rob Bates.
11:05 Emili rounds up the trends she observed during Fashion Week.
17:35 Rob Bates covers the latest news on Samuels Jewelers.
22:55 Rob tells the “Weird Jewelry Story of the Week.”
25:45 Rob interviews Ben Janowski, diamond analyst and president of Janos Consultants, about new trends in diamonds and jewelry
Episode Credits
Host:Rob Bates
JCKStaff:Emili Vesilind
Guest:Ben Janowski, President, Janos Consultants
Engineer and Editor: Levi Sharpe
Producer: Natalie Chomet
Plugs:jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, janosconsultants.com
Show Recap
Oscar-Winning Jewelry Moments
Emili Vesilind reacts to the big jewelry moments at the Oscars––the SuperBowl for fine jewelry brands. This year, she was dazzled by Lady Gaga who wore the historic Tiffany diamond, which has not been worn since Audrey Hepburn sported it at a Breakfast at Tiffany’s publicity event.
Emili rounds up the JCK editorial team’s Oscar jewelry favorites including Julia Roberts in Cindy Chao; Charlize Theron in Bulgari; and Spike Lee sporting the LOVE/HATE knuckle rings from Do the Right Thing.
Trendspotting at Fashion Week
Emili has seen some key trends emerge in 2019 that carried through to Fashion Week. These include big chains from Oscar de la Renta, IDM, and Tom Ford who created dresses that featured curb chain elements. Large hoop earrings were another recurring theme—some traditional, and others more crumpled in shape. Rob asks Emili how Oscar and Fashion Week looks influence each other and inform jewelry retailer trends. Which trends will fizzle and which will soar?
Reports of Samuels Jewelers and Bank Fraud
Listen for Rob’s coverage of the latest report on Samuels Jewelers. Rob recounts the saga of the 112-store retail chain, which filed for bankruptcy last year, and announced the closing of all its stores just six months after its parent company Gitanjali Gems was charged with bank fraud.
Weird Story of the Week
Rob reveals the weird and unsettling story of a dental hygienist who may have relieved several patients of their jewelry while they were under sedation. The local police chief asserts that, “Although she was using laughing gas, this is no laughing matter.”
Interview with Diamond Analyst Ben Janowski
Rob gets Ben’s insights into lab-grown diamonds. Mr. Janowski was an early adopter who told Rob that manmade diamonds would be the next big thing before Rob heard anyone else talking about it. Ben shares his thoughts on the history of lab-grown and where it’s going. He talks about what the marketing gets wrong and what it gets right in both the new lab-created and traditional diamond market.
Fri, 15 Mar 2019 - 45min - 48 - Pilot: New Year Edition
0:35 Melissa Rose Bernardo shares a 140-year-old article from the archives of JCK Magazine on lab-grown gems.
4:25 Rob Bates and Emili Vesilind discuss holiday jewelry sales.
9:10 Rob and Emili discuss lab-grown diamond sales and the future of lab-grown.
22:06 Emili’s Golden Globe jewelry fashion report.
25:40 Emili covers the new year fashion trend “maximalism.”
34:05 Rob tells the "Weird Jewelry Story of the Week
39:37 Rob interviews diamond analyst Paul Zimnisky about lab-grown diamonds and the future of the industry.Hosted by: Rob Bates
JCK Staff:Melissa Rose Bernardo, Emili Vesilind
Guest: Paul Zimnisky, Diamond Analyst
Engineers: Levi Sharpe, Ed Patenaude
Editor: Jamie Berger
Producer: Natalie Chomet
Plugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine, paulzimnisky.comShow Summary
From the Archives
In honor of JCK magazine’s 150th anniversary, Managing Editor Melissa Bernardo dug up an article from the February 1878 issue of The Jewelers Circular and Horological Review, which is what JCK magazine was called at the time. This over 140-year-old news item concerns something we think of as the latest technical innovation: lab-grown gems. This vintage article documents a “highly successful” attempt at producing artificial rubies and sapphires in France that “might perhaps lead to the manufacture of diamonds.” A century ago, JCK covered the prediction that lab-grown diamonds could be on the horizon.
Holiday Sales and Trends
Emili Vesilind reports that jewelry retailers had a solid, strong season, though she reads that traffic was slightly lower in stores, along with a more dramatic rise in online traffic. Rob says that sales went up, but not as much as it did the year before. Hopes were high, and the trends stayed fairly standard rather than having a dramatic rise. Rob and Emili also discuss lab-grown diamonds, and whether their attractive prices or their eco-friendly pitches mark a trend that has staying power.
Golden Globe Trends
Emili observes that the trend that emerged at the Golden Globes was a parade of glamor and maximalism. The Golden Globes marked a break from the past, when simple everyday pieces and “daily gold” had been the most prevalent trends. Now, chunky pieces are entering the scene. Emili also marks a return to ‘70s and ‘80s-style layering, as opposed to the single statement pieces of the more recent past.
Weird Story of the Week
Rob tells the story of a British Reddit user who gets swept up into the trend of New Years’ Eve proposals. The confused fellow who lives with his long-term girlfriend purchases an engagement ring with the intent to propose to a love interest he’s started seeing at work. On New Year’s Eve, he spontaneously proposes to his girlfriend, giving her the ring, and turns to Reddit for legal advice: is it possible to call the whole thing off and return the engagement ring? Tune in for the exciting conclusion!
Interview with Diamond Analyst Paul Zimnisky
Rob interviews Paul Zimnisky about how he got into the business of diamond analysis. They delve into the supply and demand of the diamond business, and their effect on pricing.
Paul has observed demand for diamonds grow for the last four to five years, despite talk of fewer millennials getting married. He sees the incremental increase in supply in 2017 as a contributing factor to the pressure on diamond pricing in the recent past.
Rob gets Paul’s take on how lab-grown diamonds fit into the supply/demand equation for the rest of the diamond market. Paul raises the concern about accurate sourcing of diamonds, and small lab-created diamonds making their way into the natural supply chain. They share their opinions on the future of lab-grown diamonds, and whether the end consumer will differentiate between lab-created and natural. Will they prefer one over the other and why?
Though opinions may differ about the future of the natural and lab-grown diamond industry, Paul reminds listeners that diamonds are luxury items, ones that are often purchased for emotional reasons, and this makes their future harder to predict than items purchased for practical reasons.
Wed, 30 Jan 2019 - 56min - 47 - Episode 45: Guest Shelia Bayes
In This EpisodeYou’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) ...
Tue, 25 May 2021 - 28min
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