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- 40 - Episode 38: Guest John Ferry
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, you'll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky and news director Rob Bates talk with John Ferry, the founder and chief executive officer of Prosperity Earth. He'll tell us all about his mining efforts in Madagascar and the beautiful demantoid garnets found there. Show Notes00:30 Introducing John Ferry, founder and chief executive officer of Prosperity Earth.06:51 John explains how Prosperity Earth tries to give back to the local community08:17 Victoria asks John to explain the significance of demantoids.12:31 John tells us all about the mine.15:39 Rob questions if mining can have a positive impact on the community in which it occurs.19:03 A few more fun facts about Madagascar. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com, @jckmagazine Show Recap Introducing John FerryWith most of the Tucson gem shows cancelled, Victoria and Rob will be bringing a little bit of the gem world to you as they introduce their guest, John Ferry, the founder and chief executive officer of Prosperity Earth. John is based in Greenwich, Conn., while his mining company is based in Madagascar. Originally working on Wall Street, John later turned his entrepreneurial spirit to Madagascar, the fourth largest island in the world, which he's now visited around 65 times. Starting out with a chocolate and vanilla business, he soon turned his endeavors in Madagascar to mining. All About Giving BackJohn says creating prosperity is his No. 1 goal, hence the name of the company. And with that comes a component of giving back to the community. That's done by reinvesting in the people who work for his company and the community in which they work. But giving back also includes an environmental factor. There's a high level of interdependency between the people of Madagascar, the planet, community relations, and environmental development. What Are Demantoids?Victoria tells us that she's holding a demantoid garnet of John's and asks him to explain why it's so special. He tells us a demantoid garnet is 10,000 times rarer than a diamond. Its signature features are its fire and brilliance, which John believes make it the most beautiful of all the colored gems. Comparing Madagascan demantoids to ones from Russia, John believes his are better because of their sharp and clean crystallization. Victoria asks John about his deposit supplies in the mine, and Rob asks him about how he plans to get the word out about demantoids. Origins Of Madagascan DemantoidsRob asks John how he found out about the mine, how long it took him to get set up, and how deep it is. The mine has been around for about 10 years. John explains how he knew an Italian geologist, Dr. Federico Pezzotta, who stuck with the deposit to study it and establish the potential of the location. Right now, Prosperity Earth is only mining down about 15 to 18 meters-but it should eventually go down to around 200 to 300 meters. Madagascan demantoid is anywhere from 30 to 50% the cost of Russian demantoid. John says he wants to democratize demantoid, making it accessible to designers. The Impact Of MiningBeyond the mining level, Prosperity Earth has a 10-plus person gem-cutting team that does precision faceting. The gem-cutting process is responsible for job creation, making Madagascar not just the origin of the rough gem crystal, but also where the value addition takes place. Rob plays devil's advocate and asks if mining can really have a positive impact on local economies. John says yes. But he also differentiates between various types of mining operations.
Tue, 16 Feb 2021 - 24min - 39 - Episode 37: JCK Show, Holiday Report, and De Beers
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about the JCK Las Vegas and Luxury by JCK shows in August, Inauguration Day jewelry, and the De Beers Ten/Ten collection. Show Notes 00:30 JCK’s shows have been moved to August: What can we expect?03:20 Pearls are having a moment and really took the spotlight in January.06:58 Rob recaps the holiday reports.09:44 Victoria talks about e-commerce and fun ways to shop digitally in the future.13:56 De Beers recently released its Ten/Ten project, and Victoria dishes about her favorite rings in the collection.17:56 Something unexpected happened in the art deco world at the Paris haute couture showings. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap New Dates for the JCK ShowVictoria and Rob recorded this podcast during the last week of January, and they talk about how long the month felt. They also discuss the overload of webinars and online events they’ve been seeing. Because of so many things being online, Victoria and Rob are viewing the JCK Las Vegas and Luxury by JCK shows now scheduled for August as a welcome break. Victoria predicts pearls will be the strongest category at the shows. Why Pearls?Pearls have taken the spotlight so far in 2021. They made a big splash at the inauguration, where Vice President Kamala Harris and many others were seen sporting the opulent beauties. Harris wore a pearl necklace by W.Rosado, but she’s also known to wear black pearls. There was even a Facebook group devoted to wearing pearls in the days before the inauguration. Rob reflects on what Barbara Bush and Nancy Pelosi did for pearls. Rob and Victoria also discuss the jewelry that Amanda Gorman was wearing, and the Rolex that Biden was wearing. Holiday ReportsVictoria asks Rob about what he makes of the holiday reports he's seen and what they mean for the state of the industry. There were mixed expectations, and mixed results, but overall Rob thinks the holiday season went pretty well. The season may not have been what retailers hoped for, but it was definitely promising, all things considered. They also reflect on which business practices are probably here to stay in 2021. E-commerce in 2021Victoria attended a virtual retail innovation conference by PSFK, a New York–based trend casting agency, and she fills us in on what she learned. One of the things Victoria took away from the conference was that retailers need to make things easier and more accessible for customers, especially at checkout. The conference hosts also spoke about how to get people just as excited to shop in stores as they are to shop online, and there are some interesting ways people have tried to replicate that experience. Rob and Victoria make the case for consumers having fewer choices when shopping versus having unlimited choice. De Beers and Ten/TenDe Beers worked with Blue Nile and a collection of 10 designers to create its newest project, Ten/Ten. The designers were chosen to create wedding jewelry that is now being sold on Blue Nile, in a limited collection of 10 rings per designer. All the rings are priced around $4,000, and all the diamonds used were from Botswana.
Tue, 02 Feb 2021 - 20min - 38 - Episode 36: Guest Jeffrey Cohen
In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch America. He’ll tell us how he got into the watch industry; highlight the importance of innovation and a digital-first, data-driven movement; and give his thoughts on the watch industry going into 2021. Show Notes00:25 Victoria and Rob introduce their guest, Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch America.03:34 Jeffrey drives home the importance of the brand itself over country of origin.05:50 2020 forced Jeffrey to become even more digital-first with his brands than ever before.11:17 Disney, Marvel, Frank Sinatra, and the Grammy Awards: Jeffrey shares watch news on all.14:53 Jeffrey reveals what Citizen Watch America's data is saying about its watch brands.19:16 Victoria wonders if trade shows will be returning in the future. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing Jeffrey CohenVictoria and Rob introduce their guest, Jeffrey Cohen, president of Citizen Watch America. He’s been in that role for over a decade now, and he oversees not just Citizen Watch America but a total of five brands, including Bulova, Accutron, Alpina, and Frederique Constant. His father owned a high-end luxury retail store, which first got him interested in watches, and in 1982, he became a regional sales rep at Movado. In 2010, he joined Citizen. What’s In A Name? Rob asks about the name Citizen, and Jeffrey explains its importance: having a watch for all people to enjoy. Rob asks if working for a Japanese company is any different from working for an American one. Jeffery says no and emphasizes the importance of the brand over country of origin. He most greatly values innovation, and tells the JCK editors about a watch’s movement that was just 1 mm thick and the innovation that went into creating it. Digital-First OperationsJeffrey says that his consumers easily transitioned to online purchasing, but also explains what his company needed more of to make its website work. Victoria also asks about Jeffrey’s direct-to-consumer ambitions, and Jeffrey explains how Citizen has become a digital-first brand. The terminology it uses is "Citizen First," where its consumers get the best experience possible. Jeffrey then explains how he keeps his brands separate. Collaboration With Disney and MarvelVictoria asked how the Swiss brands Alpena and Frederique Constant are doing, and Jeffery explains how Alpena and Frederique Constant's independent retailers did very well during the holiday season. Victoria also asks what we can expect to see from Citizen this year. Jeffrey talks about its collaborations with Disney and Marvel, as well as innovation coming out of the Bulova brand and its Frank Sinatra collection. He also discusses the upcoming 2021 Grammy Awards and Citizen's involvement. Data, Data, DataJeffrey says Citizen has been using data for years now, but that the pandemic really pushed it to become a digital-first company. CRM is what it primarily uses to create additional sales for the company. Jeffrey says the watch industry's consumer is getting younger, and for Bulova,
Thu, 21 Jan 2021 - 24min - 37 - Episode 35: Jewelry Industry Predictions for 2021
In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/)talk about the trends in 2020 that will continue into 2021. E-commerce? Probably here to stay. They’ll also be covering a Weird Story of the Week. Show Notes 00:30 Rob and Victoria wish listeners a Happy New Year and pick out what business strategies worked last year that might be here to stay in 2021.03:33 E-commerce looks like it’s here to stay.07:14 Victoria believes jewelry will join watches in the circular economy.13:07 Rob gives us a little insight to the new defense appropriations bill and what it means for the jewelry industry.16:10 Victoria touches on Pantone's Colors of the Year.20:05 This episode’s Weird Story of the Week will make you happy as a clam. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap What We Accomplished in 2020 Happy New Year! While we're facing plenty of uncertainties going into the new year, Victoria and Rob are hopeful. They acknowledge that we have all learned to embrace e-commerce and digital initiatives, and learned to work on the fly. Our Digital Future People think the adoption of e-commerce is here to stay. While we likely won't continue to do everything on Zoom, we will certainly keep some operations online, as we’ve learned to adapt to this new technology. Victoria says the circular economy is on her mind as we go into this new year—especially for gold and watches. She anticipates the circular economy will become more looped into e-commerce initiatives. The Circular Economy While watches have already been a part of the circular economy for some time now, Victoria believes jewelry will be added into the mix soon. Victoria tells us about Omnique, a jewelry site specializing in antique and vintage jewels that's already connecting old jewels to new owners. Rob mentions De Beers experimented with a trade-in service, but ultimately decided that the way to get best value for diamonds was to let consumers auction them online. A Move Toward Greater Transparency According to the new defense appropriations bill, financial institutions will be required to make their ultimate beneficial owner public. Rob has been listening to podcasts that differentiate the underground or shadow economy from our economy, but he points out that the underground economy is really just a part of our overall economy. Hopefully with this new legislation, there will be more transparency in the jewelry industry. Pantone Colors of the Year Victoria talks about the Pantone Colors of the Year: Ultimate Grey and Illuminating. While perhaps not the most obvious colors for the jewelry industry, they are bright and optimistic. Victoria ponders how these colors will be incorporated this year, and she suggests a few stones that may hit the mark. On that note, the JCK editors mourn Tucson not being held in 2021. Weird Story of the Week 2020 has come to a close. But don't worry, there's still plenty of weird to go around, and Rob supplies it with a new Weird Story of the Week. Gosman's Fish Market in Montauk, N.Y., offers a great cup of chowder, but you won’t believe what came out of a batch of clams.
Tue, 05 Jan 2021 - 22min - 36 - Episode 34: Guest Matt Stuller
In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director
Tue, 22 Dec 2020 - 22min - 35 - Episode 33: Holiday Sales, Online Luxury, Gold Sourcing
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/)discuss Black Friday, Cyber Monday, and the upcoming holidays; Amazon battling it out for space in the luxury industry; and responsible gold sourcing in the watch industry. Show Notes00:30 Speaking on Cyber Monday, Rob and Victoria begin their discussion of holiday sales.05:15 Victoria dives into how retailers can improve their holiday season.09:58 Amazon has been vying for a spot in the luxury market. What does that mean for other jewelers in the category?15:05 Responsible gold sourcing in the gold watch industry takes the spotlight.22:44 Some companies prefer to keep their gold sourcing hushed, but Rob and Victoria give sources for those that want to do better. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Black Friday, Cyber Monday, and "Zoom-worthy" JewelryVictoria starts out by reporting on the passing of a beloved member of the jewelry industry, William "Lecil" Henderson of the Henderson Collection, and passes on her deepest condolences to his family and friends. Victoria and Rob then switch topics to talk about Black Friday and Cyber Monday sales, and more holiday sales to come. Rob thinks the forecasts for retailers are pretty good this season, and he tells us why consumers looking for “Zoom-worthy” jewelry could help drive sales—if retailers put in the work. A Labor of LoveVictoria picks up the question of how retailers can improve their holiday season sales and says that this is certainly a labor-intensive season for store owners. Some states are still allowing backyard or garden showings, which are intimate jewelry showings that have the potential to be very successful. While wholesale may be down for people like Mark Patterson, a designer in SoCal who Victoria spoke to, his retail has more than doubled for 2020. Rob and Victoria both encourage people to shop local to keep small businesses afloat. Amazon, Luxury Jewelry, and e-CommerceVictoria brings up e-commerce in the luxury space, and how it has been really heating up lately. Amazon has been trying to ramp up its luxury offerings, especially luxury fashion. Amazon Fashion is going up against Farfetch—the online luxury platform in which Richemont and Alibaba have invested—and LVMH". In 2020, the online luxury market has gone from taking up just 12% of the luxury market to 23%. Jewelers must have digital operations up to snuff. Gold in the Watch IndustryConversations around responsible gold sourcing have amped up because of the COVID-19 pandemic. Victoria recently wrote an article for the New York Times on responsible gold sourcing in the watch industry —which isn’t discussed as often as responsible sourcing in the rest of the jewelry industry. Despite growing consumer demand, Swiss watchmakers haven’t been more transparent about their gold sourcing, nor do they talk about where they get their raw materials from. Hushed PracticesRolex is a huge brand in the industry but won’t communicate about its sourcing practices. Rob discusses how recycled gold, while sounding good,
Wed, 09 Dec 2020 - 24min - 34 - Episode 32: Guest Caryl Capeci
In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview Caryl Capeci, CEO of Chow Tai Fook North America. She'll be discussing the merger of her company with Hearts on Fire. You'll also hear her talk about what jewelry categories are especially hot right now for independent retailers, and what she fears about the lab-grown diamond industry. Show Notes 00:30 Rob and Victoria introduce their guest Caryl Capeci, CEO of Chow Tai Fook North America06:22 Caryl tells us how she has worked to help the Hearts on Fire brand grow11:35 Chow Tai Fook and Hearts on Fire have joined forces despite their differences, and Caryl explains how16:33 Three categories are doing especially well at independent retailers, and Caryl tells all19:47 Caryl expresses worry over the lab-grown diamond industry Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing Caryl CapeciVictoria and Rob have Caryl Capeci on as their guest this episode. She’s the CEO of Chow Tai Fook North America, and also does work for Diamonds Do Good. She talks about how she fell into the jewelry industry, starting out at an advertising agency and landing herself on the De Beers account back when they were doing integrated marketing before anyone else was. She also explains why De Beers’ campaigns were so successful. Hearts on Fire LegacyCaryl left the De Beers’ account in 1999, and left the industry altogether when she married her husband and they moved to Massachusetts. Hearts on Fire was created in 1996, but Caryl didn't join them until 2007. She describes how she helped to build brand loyalty as they grew Hearts on Fire through connections with sales associates and independent jewelers. Rob asks why Hearts on Fire had more staying power than other brands. Marriage of Hearts on Fire and Chow Tai FookHearts on Fire acquired the wholesaler brand Chow Tai Fook in 2014. Victoria asks what kinds of changes Hearts on Fire has implemented during the past six years. Caryl explains that while the two companies are very different, they had a perfect marriage right from the beginning. Hearts on Fire is also selling in China, in 250 stores in the Chow Tai Fook network. Caryl also talks about her stay in Hong Kong at the peak of the country's first wave of the COVID-19 pandemic. Categories That WorkRob asks Caryl if she sees any difference in consumer buying habits post—COVID-19. She highlights the fact that people want to give gifts with meaning and of lasting value, as they're especially appreciative of their loved ones and close friends that they haven’t been able to see. She says that watches, classic diamond jewelry, and bridal are three categories that are doing especially well at independent retailers. What About Lab-Grown?Victoria asks if the pandemic has reminded people of their community jeweler,
Mon, 23 Nov 2020 - 26min - 33 - Episode 31: Blue Nile x Lightbox, the Argyle Mines, and NYC's Jewelry Week
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about the recent announcement that Lightbox will be selling on Blue Nile. They'll also be discussing the closure of the Argyle mine, and New York City’s upcoming Jewelry Week. Listen Now[EMBED] Show Notes00:00 Rob and Victoria discuss Lightbox and Blue Nile teaming up.04:55 Are lab-grown diamonds just for fashion, or are they fit for bridal wear, too?07:50 The Argyle mines are closing: What that means for the industry.10:00 Colored diamonds were a staple of the Argyle mines. Victoria and Rob talk color variety and nomenclature.16:32 Victoria discusses all the fun to come at the upcoming NYC Jewelry Week. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/), ebay.com (https://www.ebay.com) Show Recap Blue Nile x LightboxLightbox made a big announcement right at the end of October: It will be selling its product on Blue Nile. When Rob spoke to the CEO of Blue Nile earlier in the year, it seemed like the company was leaning toward partnering with the fashion brand, and now it’s official. This partnership is Blue Nile’s first lab-grown diamond brand. Rob argues that Lightbox, despite all the criticism, is offering a genuine attempt to differentiate themselves in the market of lab-grown diamonds. Are Lab-Grown Diamonds for Bridal or Fashion?Even though Lightbox debuted in 2018, Victoria argues that the market for lab-grown diamonds still has such mixed messaging on whether or not the diamonds are up to par with their non-lab-grown counterparts. She recently went to see Mark Patterson, a luxury jeweler, and he told her that his retail business this year is through the roof, and that he had his first bridal lab-grown diamond sales. Despite people starting to buy lab-grown diamonds for bridal wear, Blue Nile and LightBox are still advertising them as just fashion pieces. The Closing of the Argyle MinesOn Nov. 3, the Argyle mine in Western Australia closed after 37 years in the business. Victoria asks Rob what he thinks of the closure and what it means for the industry. Rob says that the industry originally viewed what came out of the Argyle mine as inferior, but the mine managed to create a market for middle-class Americans wanting to buy diamonds at a lower price, thereby “democratizing” the market. Colored DiamondsThe Argyle mine produced 90% of the world’s pink diamonds, and it also produced champagne and chocolate diamonds. Victoria talks about how the gems get their color. She also mentions the 2.83 ct. violet diamond that graced the cover of the July/August issue of JCK. Rob and Victoria discuss the interesting nomenclature of diamonds out of the Argyle mine and how Argyle worked to differentiate themselves. New York City’s Third Annual Jewelry WeekNew York City is holding its third annual jewelry week from Nov. 16 through Nov. 22,
Tue, 10 Nov 2020 - 22min - 32 - Episode 30: Guest Satta Matturi
In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview Satta Matturi, owner of the eponymous brand. She’ll be discussing her interest in the diamond business, which started from an early age, and how she made her way to create and design for her own brand. Show Notes00:30 Rob and Victoria introduce Satta Matturi, owner of the eponymous brand.04:45 Satta talks about beneficiation in Botswana.07:20 With a father who worked for De Beers, Satta has always had an eye for diamonds, and she explains how she got her start.11:05 Satta is passionate about jewelry and draws inspiration from Africa for her designs.16:48 Rob asks Satta about her social media presence, and she enthuses about her new jewelry collection out this week. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing Satta MatturiVictoria introduces today’s guest, Satta Matturi, designer and founder of the eponymous jewelry brand. She splits her time between London and Gaborone, the capital of Botswana; for this episode, she’s calling in from London. Satta was born in Sierra Leone, and her father worked for De Beers, so she says her family is synonymous with the diamond industry. Satta says that Sierra Leone used to be referred to as the "Athens of Africa," and she explains how she got her start as a jeweler. Botswana and the Diamond IndustryRob brings up that Satta now lives in Botswana, which, compared to Sierra Leone, is the poster child for beneficiation. But Satta says the two countries are so different it would be hard to even compare them. Satta tells us a little bit about beneficiation in Botswana and the headway they’ve made. Where She Got Her StartVictoria asks Satta if it was a foregone conclusion she would end up where she is now; she says it wasn’t and details how she went to school in London before ending up at De Beers. She started at that company as a trainee diamond valuer, beginning her training out on the production floors before moving to sales. She became a key account manager in London, quickly transferring to South Africa before going back to London and, eventually, on to India. African Ethos Turned Contemporary CreationSatta tells Victoria and Rob of her passion for jewelry, which led her to start her own jewelry brand. She wanted to identify the market for distinct fine jewelry that was different from the norm, and she drew inspiration from the African continent, where these precious materials come from, to make contemporary pieces with an African ethos. Rob also asks Satta for any advice she would give to someone starting out in the industry, and she describes three things she would have done differently. Social Media and a New CollectionRob asks Satta about her presence on Instagram and how she works to stand out. Since she didn't much capital when she started her business,
Tue, 27 Oct 2020 - 20min - 31 - Episode 29: Publications, LVMH and Tiffany, and Social Commerce
In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about their recent publications, LVMH and Tiffany, and social commerce. You’ll also hear another installment of Weird Story of the Week, and this one involves a Real Housewives star.Show Notes Show Notes 00:30 Rob gives a sneak peek of his new novel A Murder Is Forever.03:15 Victoria’s new piece for the New York Times details the history of wristwatches.09:35 The LVMH/Tiffany schism comes as no surprise to Rob.14:23 Victoria will host a webinar on Wednesday that covers holiday 2020, and she discusses the importance of social commerce.17:55 Kyle Richards of The Real Housewives of Beverly Hills gets wrapped up in the Weird Story of the Week. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap 'A Murder Is Forever'A Murder Is Forever (https://www.amazon.com/Murder-Forever-Diamond-District-Mystery/dp/1603812210) is Rob's first novel. It’s a mystery that's set in New York City's Diamond District. You’ll hear a little about the plot of the first book, which is available in paperback and e-book format on Tuesday. The Wristwatch At 100Victoria has a piece in Tuesday's in the New York Times, “The Wristwatch at 100 (https://www.nytimes.com/2020/10/12/fashion/wristwatch-at-100.html).” It’s a cover story for an international watch section, and she reflects on the past 100 years of wristwatches going back to World War I veterans popularizing the style. Rob and Victoria also spend some time talking about watches of the '80s. LVMH-Tiffany BreakupLast year, Tiffany finally succumbed to the advances of LVMH, the biggest luxury conglomerate in the world, after it received an offer of $16 billion. In the past two months, LVMH has called off the deal after receiving a letter from the French government advising the company to back out. Rob explains why he didn’t think the deal was a very good one in the first place. Both companies have filed lawsuits, so we’ll just have to wait and see what happens come January. 2020 Holiday Season RetailVictoria will be hosting a webinar on Wednesday at 3 p.m. ET for JCK: “7 Ways the 2020 Holiday Season Will Be Different and What Jewelry Retailers Should Do About It,” in which she’ll explain the importance of Zoom consultations. In preparation for JCK’s webinar, she sat in on a webinar about social commerce, in which the presenters described how commerce isn’t developed for shopping; it’s developed for transactions. The shopping experience is hard to re-create, and Victoria explains how social commerce can help. Weird Story of the WeekRob tells a story about Kyle Richards,
Tue, 13 Oct 2020 - 21min - 30 - Episode 28: Guest Andrea Hill
In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District, you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk with Andrea Hill, CEO of Hill Management Group. Andrea says that in order to stand out in this ever-evolving jewelry world, your company needs a story. The trio also covers climate change and technology. Listen Now[EMBED] Show Notes00:26 Rob and Victoria introduce Andrea Hill, CEO of Hill Management Group.05:57 Andrea describes what the jewelry industry is missing, based on past retail management experience.10:15 Building a successful jewelry business is all about telling a story, and Andrea explains what jewelers need to do just that.14:20 Climate change is real, and Andrea tells us about the “Kindness Economy.”15:13 Andrea serves in a mentorship role and leaves us the pillars to success. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing Andrea HillBased in eastern central Wisconsin, Andrea started her tenure in the jewelry industry at Rio Grande. Before she made it there, she worked in a billiards store that started selling video equipment, making her store one of the first video rental stores in the country, pre-Blockbuster. She also worked at Playboy Enterprises, building up their licensing for videos and creating a video catalog. She then bounced around companies as a CEO before landing in the jewelry industry. What The Industry Is MissingAndrea describes her company, Hill Management Group, where she helps people get ready for entering the digital age. You’ll hear her discuss what she has learned from other industries and what the jewelry industry should be taking away from them. She emphasizes that your jewelry company can’t just be the oldest around anymore, as people no longer have to settle for their neighborhood store for jewelry expertise. Jewelry Retail As Storytelling Andrea talks about need to have a rich content strategy. In order to develop your brand in the most efficient way possible, Andrea says you need to know who you are, what you do that makes you different, and why you matter in order to succeed—and that’s just the start. You then need to merchandise your store with products that fit that theme, and someone should always be creating new copy for your website. Kindness EconomyPost-recession, the vast majority of us have accepted that climate change is real and happening, and that something needs to be done about it. We need to be aware of the fact that we are not the center of the world, and other spaces and living things matter too. Andrea describes what she calls the “Kindness Economy” and what customers expect from the retailers they buy from. The Jewelry Industry Should Be Fun Switching topics to the mentor work Andrea does—she argues that mainstream jewelry has become far too generic for its own good. She once again emphasized the importance of your store’s story, giving an example of this in practice. Andrea concludes by telling us all to learn, try new things,
Tue, 29 Sep 2020 - 20min - 29 - Episode 27: Art Deco, Department Stores, and Virtual Styling
In This Episode In this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) talk about the enduring influence of art deco, the decline of department stores, and the rise of virtual styling. They’ll also cover a Weird Story of the Week that involves an antique ring and an unhappy fiancée. Show Notes00:30 Victoria discusses her New York Times article on art deco.07:19 Department stores are seeing a decline, and Rob explains why.12:54 Victoria believes that jewelers should also work as stylists and discusses how this process is going virtual.17:59 Rob brings back the Weird Story of the Week segment with the tale of an unhappy fiancée. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Art Deco Is Here To StayRob introduces an article from the New York Times that Victoria wrote, “Art Deco at 100: Jewelry Can’t Get Enough (https://www.nytimes.com/2020/08/30/fashion/jewelry-art-deco-at-100.html).” She covers the enduring influence of art deco and explains that the century-old style isn’t really making a comeback. Art deco has never really gone away. Many jewelers have defined their whole aesthetic by revisiting or reinterpreting the style. Victoria talks about some of the deco looks she’s most interested in. Brick-And-Mortar DeclineDepartment stores are on Rob’s radar right now, and he discusses how they are having huge problems. The big icons of American retail are suffering due to online shopping. Victoria asks Rob if there are any department stores that he sees plateauing or declining, and Rob emphasizes how those serving the middle class are suffering the most. Victoria delves into the omnichannel approach, and Rob raises what the decline of department stores means for jewelers. The Jeweler As Stylist Victoria brings up how jewelers can work as stylists, and how they should consider themselves to be stylists in the way that they help customers figure out how to incorporate jewelry into their existing wardrobe. Victoria has previously spoken to the founder of The Jewelry Edit, who wanted to “move the jewelry box from the back of the closet to the center of the wardrobe.” You’ll hear about how this process is going virtual as people with expertise show clients how to best accessorize their look. Weird Story of the WeekRob brings back one of our favorite segments, Weird Story of the Week, with a story from a publication called In The Know. He recounts the proposal by a woman to her girlfriend, who said yes. All was fine until the proposed confronted her girlfriend and said she didn’t want the ring that her girlfriend had spent months picking out, but instead wanted her grandmother’s antique ring. Rob and Victoria talk about whether it's ever okay to request (or demand) jewelry from a loved one.
Tue, 15 Sep 2020 - 22min - 28 - Episode 26: Guest Marla Aaron
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District, JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview Marla Aaron, jewelry designer and founder of her eponymous brand. They’ll be discussing Marla’s rise as a self-taught newcomer in the jewelry industry and how she built her online presence and jewelry business from the ground up. Listen Now[EMBED] Show Notes00:30 Rob and Victoria introduce New York City–based jewelry designer Marla Aaron.06:27 Victoria asks Marla how her background has affected her launch into the world of jewelry.11:43 Marla describes some of the more unconventional things her business has done.15:06 They discuss Instagram and Zoom as tools Marla uses in her business.17:23 Marla discusses her Lock Your Mom project.19:16 Victoria asks about Marla Aaron’s new jewelry collection. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Natalie ChometPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing Marla AaronVictoria and Rob kick off by introducing their guest Marla Aaron. She’s a jewelry designer based in NYC and known for her for her “emotional hardware”—her lock jewelry, which has been around since 2012. She had a 20-plus year career in marketing and advertising, but she’s always been obsessed with jewelry and hardware. She worked on creating jewelry for several years while holding onto her full-time job before leaping headfirst into the jewelry industry. She also recounts her fascination with hardware, which started in her youth, and historically traces back to the Victorian and Georgian eras. Marketing and AdvertisingVictoria asks if Marla’s background in marketing has at all affected her line of work, but Marla explains how much she is driven by her own passion, so much so that she says she has thrown out many things she believed to be an absolute truth in order to pursue her dream of designing jewelry. Marla explains how as a relatively new designer she put herself on the map. There were certainly some bumps in the road, but, luckily, Instagram was starting to take root at the same time, which helped her boost her company. Unconventional Business PracticeMarla Aaron is in about 40 stores around the world and has its own showroom in NYC. It's also opening a new showroom on 47th street in the next few months. The company doesn’t do consignment as it would limit Marla in what she could do. Marla describes some of the more unconventional things that her business does that makes it stand out. One of the most unconventional is its fine jewelry vending machine, and you’ll hear her describe this installation at the Brooklyn Museum. Self-Taught, Self-Built Online PresenceYou’ll hear Marla explain her company's online presence and talk about the second Instagram account that her customer experience staff runs. She also explains how she Zooms with her customers using two employees—one at the ready to show off the jewelry and one to answer questions. Her Instagram has 95,000 followers,
Tue, 01 Sep 2020 - 23min - 27 - Episode 25: Recapping JCK Virtual 2020Wed, 19 Aug 2020 - 20min
- 26 - Episode 24: Guests Sarin Bachmann and Kate YoungstromMon, 03 Aug 2020 - 24min
- 25 - Episode 23: Guest Oliver Smith
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview Oliver Smith, owner of Oliver Smith Jeweler in Scottsdale, Ariz. He discusses the changes he’s made to his online presence that have helped his business during COVID-19. You'll also hear that how he recently opened up a new store in Aspen, Colo. Show Notes00:30 Introducing Oliver Smith, owner of Oliver Smith Jeweler06:58 Victoria asks about watches; Rob asks about jewelry11:30 Victoria asks about the Zoom auctions that Oliver has been running15:35 Oliver discusses the chat function he’s implemented on his website17:47 Oliver talks about opening up a new store during COVID-19 Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Katey Clifford and Kathy PasseroPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing Oliver SmithOliver Smith is the owner of Oliver Smith Jeweler based in Scottsdale, Ariz. He’s been in the jewelry business since 1981 and talks about his experience, from his start outside of Philadelphia to California, to opening his store in Arizona. Oliver opened up a second location in Aspen, Colo., over the July 4th weekend. He covers what’s going on in Arizona due to COVID and how they’ve been running their store despite the back and forth on reopenings in the state. Watches, Jewelry and "Cars and Cigars"Victoria asks Oliver about his start in watches, the survival of the Swiss watch, and its impact on his business. Oliver expresses his love for the aesthetics of the jewelry industry and how it keeps him going. He recounts a heartwarming story about the origins of “Cars and Cigars,” which originally started as one client coming to pick up jewelry one Sunday before Christmas, and has evolved into a shopping event where his clients come around on the last Sunday before every Christmas to shop, talk cars, and of course, have a cigar. Making the Most of Zoom AuctionsOliver explains how he uses Zoom to interact with his clients and sell jewelry. In order to keep his business booming during this time, he sends out an auction invite to all of his clients, and they join him for a live auction over Zoom. He’s been using this platform to sell jewelry that he wasn’t selling otherwise, and now this has become a regular way for him to sell jewelry. You’ll also hear him give advice about how he does it and what he’d do differently in doing it again. Keeping Your Clients EngagedPodium offers a chat function that retailers can add to their website so clients can ask questions and get fast answers even when you aren’t in-store. Oliver explains how he has implemented this function on his site and uses one of his employees, Ryan, to man the chat. This allows him to complete transactions with people he never would have been able to otherwise. Opening a New StoreDespite the difficult times most everyone has been facing during the pandemic, Oliver continued on with his plans to open up a second location.
Mon, 13 Jul 2020 - 24min - 24 - The Jewelry District, Episode 22: The Industry Copes With COVID-19
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) discussing this summer’s retail landscape as some states ease their COVID-19 restrictions. Show Notes00:50 Rob discusses statistics on the retail landscape.05:47 With an increase of COVID cases in some states, Rob wonders how long places can stay open.08:38 Victoria discusses some recent digital innovations in the watch industry.13:33 Rob and Victoria hope businesses maintain online aspects post–COVID-1917:05 Rob and Victoria wrap up by discussing some business's resistance to moving online. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Katey Clifford and Kathy PasseroPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Retail Sales on the RiseRob talks about retail sales going up—the biggest one-month rebound in history. Forty million people lost their jobs—but personal income is up because of things like the stimulus check, unemployment, etc. What will happen when government-finance purchasing power ends? Wealthy consumer spending has gone down. More than 20% of luxury jewelry revenue comes from travel. Opening Up AmericaRob talks about how differently openings across America are happening. With an increase in COVID-19 cases, how long will reopenings last? Victoria emphasizes the importance of having an online presence and working e-commerce. Rob and Victoria discuss the importance of customers wearing masks. Digital InnovationVictoria talks about growing digital innovations. While some watch sites have launched e-commerce lately, there has been resistance to do so in the luxury market. Buyers still want to hold onto that touch-and-feel experience that you simply cannot get online. Victoria also mentions one of the recent innovations in the watch world—an augmented reality filter allowing for holographic viewing of a watch on your wrist. Victoria tells a story about a Zoom happy hour with clients. A New NormalVictoria hopes to maintain some of these online aspects once we all go back to normal. Nonetheless, people still love hearing from another person when they’re making large purchases, so a combination of an online and in-person presence works best. Resistance to ChangeThere is still resistance from businesses with regard to moving online. Victoria and Rob talk about Patek Philippe selling online for the first time ever—which they soon stopped in April, just a month after starting. While wrapping up, Rob expresses that he is hopeful for the future—as independent retailers are the backbone of communities across America and JCK.
Mon, 29 Jun 2020 - 20min - 23 - The Jewelry District, Episode 21: Guest David Kellie
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview guest David Kellie, chief executive officer of the Natural Diamond Council (previously the Diamond Producers Association). David discusses the company's rebranding, his thoughts on the lab-grown diamond industry, and diversity in the industry. Show Notes00:52 Rob and Victoria introduce David Kellie, CEO of the Natural Diamond Council05:54 David discusses the rebranding of Diamond Producers Association to the Natural Diamond Council10:27 Victoria asks about stores reopening, and Rob asks about weddings, engagements, and lab-grown diamonds14:43 Rob asks about opportunities in the diamond industry, and Victoria asks about the Jeweler Support Network18:08 Rob asks about the logistics of Natural Diamond Council’s upcoming campaigns20:58 Victoria asks about the Natural Diamond Council's new website, and Rob asks about diversity in the industry Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Katey Clifford and Kathy PasseroPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing David KellieRob and Victoria introduce their guest David Kellie, CEO of the Natural Diamond Council. David was previously with Watches of Switzerland Group and helped with its marketing and communications. Before that he was with the Ralph Lauren Corp. for 15 years, which helped him transition to his career in the luxury sector. Rob asks David about the difference in how outsiders see the diamond industry versus how it is on the inside. David says he wants to downgrade the challenges in the diamond industry—and that there are great opportunities ahead. Rebranding to Natural Diamond CouncilDavid tells Rob that the Natural Diamond Council will do its best to fill the void in marketing and advertising that has existed for the past 10 years. Victoria asks about the company name change, and David says with an audience that consists mostly of millennials who get all of their information online, more time and money needs to be invested there. David says he wants to build strong digital platforms around the world. Engagements, Weddings, and Lab-Grown DiamondsDespite all of the store closings in the last few months due to COVID-19, David feels consumers will return to stores once they feel safe to do so. Rob asks about engagements and weddings, and David explains how he feels about the rest of this year. When Rob asks about lab-grown diamonds, David says lab-growns will have a place in the market in the future, but it will remain small compared to natural diamonds. He’s ready to promote anything that is exciting in the industry. Millennial AudiencesRob asks David where big opportunities are, and what we are underserving as an industry. David says everyone has not been the best at digital—which effects the millennial audience. David believes that it will be all about connections, relationships, friendships, and celebration coming out of this pandemic, as well as reminding consumers about diamonds in the context of all of those occasions.
Mon, 15 Jun 2020 - 23min - 22 - The Jewelry District, Episode 20: Guest Kate Peterson
In this EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) interview guest Kate Peterson, president and CEO of Performance Concepts. They'll discuss stores reopening around the country, changes in consumer behavior, and educational resources to help your business come out of this crisis prepared. Show Notes00:25 Introduction of Kate Peterson, president and CEO of Performance Concepts.03:08 Rob asks Kate what she’s hearing about reopenings around the country.09:10 Kate explains what companies have to do when reopening.14:20 Kate discusses employee-employer relations.17:40 Kate explains the best way for people to educate themselves during this time. Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Katey Clifford and Kathy PasseroPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Introducing Kate PetersonKate Peterson is president and CEO of Performance Concepts and is based in an old stomping ground of Victoria’s—Montgomery Village, Md. The state of Maryland has begun to reopen, but the area immediately surrounding Washington, D.C., is still closed. Kate started out in the jewelry industry working in a store at just 16. She was director of training at the original Kay Jewelers in Alexandria, Va., and training director of Sterling, as well as vice president of training for Littman Jewelers. This was all before she decided to branch off on her own with a business partner in the late 1990s to create Performance Concepts. Now they work with trade organizations; design training programs for retailers; and work with retailers directly to provide training services, organizational design, management development, and general consulting. Changing Consumer BehaviorRob asks Kate what they’re hearing as far as reopening and sales, and Kate says she sees no real consistency across the country. She is, however, seeing some pent-up demand as stores reopen—but that seems to fizzle out after a week. Those who are most successful are those who have put time in over the last two months figuring out what they had to do differently. You’ll hear Kate talk about the biggest changes in consumer behavior and how to prepare for dealing with those changes. Handling the ReopeningRob asks Kate how most people are handling the reopenings, and Kate emphasizes that no matter what companies do they must be consistent. Companies must take a stand on their procedures and stick to them—for instance, if they're requiring people wear a mask. Another helpful hint is to tell people what you can do, not what you can’t—and to think of ways you can present yourself positively to your customers. Employee-Employer RelationsThere are restrictions across the country about how many people are allowed to be in a store at one time—and that includes yourself, your employees, and customers. With such limitations, it’s possible not all of your employees can return to business as usual. Kate suggests if you’re paying your employee to stay at home, you can tell them to volunteer their time toward their community,
Wed, 03 Jun 2020 - 23min - 21 - The Jewelry District, Episode 19: Guest Bruce Cleaver
In This EpisodeIn this edition of The Jewelry District you’ll hear JCK editor-in-chief Victoria Gomelsky (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/victoria-gomelsky/) and news director Rob Bates (https://www.jckonline.com/writer/rob-bates/) conduct their first intercontinental podcast as they interview Bruce Cleaver, chief executive officer of the De Beers Group. You’ll hear them discuss what's going on in the diamond industry, including production, supply and demand, and sustainability. Show Notes00:30 Introduction of Bruce Cleaver, CEO of the De Beers Group03:55 Rob asks how the diamond industry is doing in the face of COVID-1909:54 Rob asks what we can expect regarding production this year, and Bruce recaps the enormous relief efforts De Beers has provided to countries of mining communities15:41 Rob asks about supply and demand19:17 Vic asks about Lightbox and how stores in the United States can begin to reopen22:51 Rob asks about new sustainability projects such as Tracr and reducing carbon footprint Episode CreditsHosts: Rob Bates and Victoria GomelskyEditor: Olivia BrileyProducer and engineer: Katey Clifford and Kathy PasseroPlugs: jckonline.com (https://www.jckonline.com/), @jckmagazine (https://www.instagram.com/jckmagazine/) Show Recap Bruce Cleaver, CEO of the De Beers GroupBruce Cleaver has been with De Beers since 2005. He has been a board director since 2008 and CEO since 2016. He was born in South Africa, but now lives just outside of London, making him the first intercontinental guest The Jewelry District has seen, as Rob and Victoria chat from the United States. Bruce explains his background and how he came into the diamond mining industry. Diamond Sales During COVID-19Rob asks if diamonds are being sold despite the global affects COVID-19 has had on all industries—and Bruce says yes. China has bounced back well, and sales are improving. The rest of the world hasn’t seen as high of a demand, however. You’ll also hear Rob ask about how business is doing on a wholesale level rather than just retail. The diamond industry is a global, interconnected one, and where there is demand, De Beers is determined to service it. Diamond Production and COVID-19 ReliefYou’ll hear Rob ask what we can expect regarding production this year. Bruce says that all of the mines are in slightly different places, and the company wants to start things back up when the time comes in the safest way possible. In better news—De Beers has made significant contribution to COVID-19 relief across South Africa and Canada. It's working to keep mines open and working with governments to step up health care, set countries up with top of the line testing, and other health supplies such as thermometers and food donations. It has also donated $200,000 through UN Women for gender-based violence relief. Supply and DemandYou’ll hear Bruce talk about supply and demand in the diamond industry, including how last year we saw production peak, so we’re likely to see less production toward the end of the crisis than there was before it began. De Beers spent $170 million in advertising last year, and it's committed to driving demand. Coming Out of the Crisis and Lab-Grown DiamondsVictoria asks Bruce about Lightbox and the demand for lab-grown diamonds,
Mon, 18 May 2020 - 27min
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