One Dish

In the final episode of the first series of One Dish, comedian and writer Jack Rooke brings a lovely little ramekin of one of his favourite foods: stuffing. Intended to keep meat moist, and to eke out expensive cuts so they go further, they’re now an indispensable component of a special occasion meal for many people - including Jack. He shares some of his favourite stuffing memories, and admits that when it comes to the preparation he’s very much a sous chef and it’s his mum who’s in charge in the kitchen. Andi and Jack learn about the long and varied history of stuffing in Britain; it’s had many guises over the years, from pudding to forcemeat to the ‘just add water’ type out of a box. They find out how the popularity of sage and onion is connected to commercial chicken farming, and Jack persuades Andi to cook one of the more outlandish historical stuffing recipes she’s discovered (although not quite as outlandish as stuffed porpoise). And Kimberley Wilson has some fascinating intel on the delicate art of cooking different cuts of meat and the scientific reason why it sometimes goes dry and tough. Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Exec Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe Commissioning producer: Lynda Davies A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

Presenter, comedian and actor Jayde Adams joins Andi Oliver this week to discuss a mutual favourite dim sum dish: cheung fun. These steamed rice noodle rolls filled with pork, prawns or other delicious things weren’t familiar to Jayde until relatively recently. Although she grew up with a close family connection to Chinese cooking, it was her mum who introduced her to the joys of dim sum in a Chinatown restaurant on a visit to London.

Andi and Jayde learn about the extensive history in China of cooking with rice noodles like this, and also about the interesting possibility that the dish may have evolved in the absence of another ingredient. Kimberley Wilson explains the science behind why this type of steamed noodle dish remains delightfully chewy and bouncy despite not containing any gluten. And you’ll never guess what technological innovation Jayde’s planning to install in her new kitchen; probably no use for making her own dim sum though!

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Exec Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe

A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

Andi Oliver is joined this week by musician and actor Jordan Stephens and he’s brought a dish that’s close to both of their hearts - ackee and saltfish with dumplings.

It’s a Jamaican national dish beloved in Britain by people from all parts of the African and Caribbean diaspora. During Jordan’s childhood it was a crucial part of the Guyanese buffet at Stephens family Sports Days in North London parks.

Neither ackee nor saltfish originated in the Caribbean, so how did they end up on a plate together there? Jordan and Andi explore the history of the dish and its connection to the transatlantic slave trade, as well as how food intersects with the complex experience of Black British Caribbean identity.

And there’s a cautionary scientific tale from Kimberley Wilson, on how surprisingly dangerous ackee can be if not handled correctly.

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Executive Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe

A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

Presenter and former Made In Chelsea star Jamie Laing meets Andi Oliver this week, and he’s talking about his mum’s Thai chicken noodle soup.

Jamie grew up with underwhelming boarding school food - piles of sausages and meat and two veg. But his mum’s passion for cooking meant that when he went back home his mealtimes were much more exciting.

Andi enlightens Jamie on the origins of his dish - actually a Ken Hom recipe for a Northern Thai dish called Khao Soi which originated from historic Chinese and Burmese migration into Thailand. They consider the varied global forms of chicken soup, why chicken thighs taste more of happiness than boneless skinless chicken breast and what the pungent savoury notes of fish sauce add to this soup.

And Kimberley Wilson looks into whether there’s any peer-reviewed scientific evidence for it being more than just comfort food. Can chicken soup cure the common cold?

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Executive Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe

A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

It’s comedian Suzi Ruffell in the hot seat this week, and she’s brought Andi a baked treat that’s been in her family for decades - bread pudding.

It’s important to note early on, as Suzi does, that this is very different to bread and butter pudding, though it does also provide a great opportunity for using up stale bread. Employing working class thriftiness to make the most out of ingredients past their best, bread pudding is a dish that Suzi associates with her beloved late nan Joan, who’d always have one on the go.

Its origins go back much further than a couple of generations though. Suzi and Andi discover the unexpectedly historic roots of the dish, and that it’s not always even been sweet. Find out what cleaned animal intestine has in common with a supermarket bag of mixed fruit as they discuss bread puddings through the ages.

And Kimberley Wilson has some interesting scientific insight into why bread goes stale in the first place.

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Executive Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe

A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

Food writer and cook Ixta Belfrage is Andi’s guest, and her One Dish is actually one of her own invention: a historic and important Brazilian fish stew - Moqueca - adapted into a British-style potato-topped fish pie. Ixta shares the history of Moqueca, and how it evolved from an indigenous Tupi Brazilian dish to contain ingredients like coconut milk and azeite de dende (red palm oil) which arrived in Brazil with enslaved people from Africa and Portuguese colonisers. Andi explores the history of pies being made with potato tops rather than pastry cases.

This dish is emblematic of Ixta’s approach to cooking; she grew up in Italy and England with a Brazilian mum and English dad, and has a strong family connection to Mexico too. The astonishing family history that she recounts is reflected in how she uses ingredients in dishes like this Moqueca fish pie. Plus, Kimberley Wilson has a fascinating science segment on a key element of Ixta’s dish: the heat from Scotch bonnet chili.

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Exec Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe

A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

Cookbook author, restaurateur and chef Asma Khan is Andi Oliver’s guest, and she’s brought one of the most important dishes in her life to the table - kala channa.

This stewed, spiced black chickpea dish from India is traditionally eaten in Asma’s family after fasting during Ramadan - although Asma prefers to start with a few samosas first.

Andi and Asma talk about the history of kala channa as an important crop in India, reflect on how access to Indian ingredients has improved over the past couple of decades, and reveal the difference using fresh garam masala can make to the dish.

And Kimberley Wilson is on hand to explain the science of expanding ‘magic’ dried beans. Asma also shares a great tip for building up the deeply flavoured layers of heat in her Kala Channa, and admits a surprising thing she loves to do with the leftovers.

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Exec Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe

A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

Comedian and co-host of the hit food podcast Off Menu, Ed Gamble, is in the studio this week. He's making the case to Andi Oliver for one of his all time favourite things to eat - a cheeseboard.

Crunchy cheddar, a soft goat, a cheese of giants (Comté) and a real stinky blue - these are all essential components of Ed’s dream board. To Andi’s horror, he’s not bothered about the ‘fripperies’ that surround the cheese on a board - but Kimberley Wilson’s here to explain the science behind why eating sweet and savoury things together is so satisfying for (most of) us.

Andi and Ed also learn that our current cheeseboard construction has more to do with Russian than French dining convention, and are shocked to hear what Wensleydale is hiding about its true self.

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Executive Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe

A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

Baker, cookbook author and former GBBO star Benjamina Ebuehi is sharing her One Dish with Andi Oliver. And she’s gone for a classic - carrot cake. Benjamina’s brought a spectacular cake made to her own recipe and Andi’s wondering if there’s nutmeg in it, but in fact it’s spiced instead with cinnamon, ginger, cardamom, cloves, as well as one more - slightly unexpected - ingredient.

This cake holds lots of memories for Benjamina after she started out baking in her teens. Carrot cake seemed so much more sophisticated than cupcakes, and became a firm favourite at her family functions. Its origins more broadly can be traced back to 10th century Middle Eastern puddings, with some surprising twists and turns along the way.

While the cake is now considered to be an US import in the UK due to its use of oil rather than the more traditional butter, that cross-Atlantic relationship is more complex than you might think. And Kimberley Wilson talks about the relationship between sugar and stress, explaining why so many of our comfort foods are sweet.

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Executive Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe

A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

British-Malaysian comedian Phil Wang joins Andi Oliver at the table to share his love of a classic Malaysian dish, Wat Tan Hor. It’s characterised by flat rice noodles, seafood and a gloopy egg gravy spiced with pepper. Phil thinks this dish might be visually unappealing to the uninitiated, but he urges us to see past its humble appearance to appreciate the savoury deliciousness within.

This dish has a real family connection for Phil - it reminds him of his Dad, who took it on himself to feed him up with it as a kid. He tells Andi about the strong and varied influences of Chinese, Malay and Indian food on Malaysian cuisine, paints a vivid picture of the unparalleled joys of a hawker market and explains how spotting a great Chinese restaurant is easier than you think.

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Executive Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe

A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

Joining Andi Oliver this week is presenter, author and journalist Candice Brathwaite, and she's chosen a dish with a history that runs deep for her and her family - fried plantain. Candice loves plantain so much, she’d eat it for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

The plantain’s roots lie on the Pacific island of New Guinea, which comes as a bit of a surprise to Andi and Candice, who have spent their lives eating plantain as part of Antiguan and Jamaican meals respectively. They discuss how plantain’s story is inextricably linked to the transportation of enslaved people from Africa to the Caribbean, and also the deep connection and pleasure this food brings for them. Also, Andi reveals the specific way plantain should always be cut for maximum fried joy.

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Executive Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe

A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

Chef, restaurateur and the internet’s unofficial King of Butter, Thomas Straker has the honour of being the first One Dish guest to actually cook at the studio. He’s making his signature dish of pici cacio e pepe for Andi Oliver. It’s a bit of a cheffy favourite at the moment but, as Thomas and Andi discuss, it’s becoming more well known with British home cooks thanks to its simple ingredients. Thomas explains how cooking this dish was a lifebelt for him during lockdown, why friction is the secret ingredient to hand-rolling great pici, and he and Andi explore the significance of the four classic Roman pasta dishes. Also, Thomas admits to the not-strictly-traditional tweaks he makes to the dish. Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Executive Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

Food-loving comedian Jessica Fostekew is Andi Oliver’s guest at the One Dish table this week and she’s talking about an Austrian family favourite - schnitzel. Whether cold from the fridge or freshly bubbling and crispy from the pan, Jessica is always up for some schnitzel.

Andi and Jessica learn about the 1st century Roman gourmand who first recorded a version of this dish, and discuss the respective merits of other breaded cutlets (tonkatsu or parmo, anyone?) as well as how making schnitzel yourself can save your sad ends of stale bread from the bin.

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Exec Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe

A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

Andi Oliver meets drag queen and star of RuPaul's Drag Race UK Cheryl Hole to discuss her favourite food - lasagne. Cheryl's a true diva who prefers to be cooked for, but she can still turn out a mean Essex lasagne, just as her mum did.

Andi and Cheryl learn about the greedy friar whose lasagne gluttony made it into a 13th-century Italian poem, get geeky about how swelling starch molecules hold the key to the perfect béchamel, and both Andi and Cheryl admit to some frankly shocking cold lasagne related behaviour.

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producer: Lucy Dearlove Executive Producer: Hannah Marshall Sound Design: Charlie Brandon-King Assistant Producer: Bukky Fadipe

A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

In a new series about the dishes that mean the most to us, Andi Oliver meets cookery writer, presenter and GBBO star Briony May Williams to sample her home-made soda bread. Briony makes soda bread just as her incredible Granky did, using a recipe that's now over 100 years old.

Andi and Briony wonder how on earth anyone discovered that using ash from a fire makes a delicious risen loaf, get stuck into the science of acidulation and saccharomyces cerevisiae, and Andi has a bread-related brainwave which will transform the way you roast a chicken and will quite possibly change your life.

Food Scientist: Kimberley Wilson Food Historian: Neil Buttery Producers: Victoria Lloyd and Lyndsay Fenner Series Producer: Lucy Dearlove Executive Producer: Hannah Marshall A Storyglass production for BBC Radio 4

Andi Oliver explores the science and history of of our favourite foods. The first episode drops on Friday, 13th May 2022.