The Surfer's Journal presents Soundings with Jamie Brisick

Born in 1952, Jack Shipley moved from Maryland to Oahu by way of Ohio when he was nine years old. Soon after, he took a surf lesson from a Waikiki beach boy and knew right away where his life was headed.

Shipley worked at surf shops in his teens, first Hobie, then Surf Line Hawaii. In 1970, he and fellow Surf Line employee Gerry Lopez founded Lightning Bolt Surfboards, which would soon become the most recognized surfboard label in the world.

Lightning Bolt had the best shapers of the period: Bill Barnfield, Tom Parrish, Reno Abellira, Barry Kanaiapuni, Tom Nellis, and Tom Eberly. They also had the best surfers: Mark Richards, Rabbit Bartholomew, Shaun Tomson, Margo Oberg, Jeff Hakman, Rory Russell, and, of course, Lopez himself, who was pushing the boundaries in barrel riding at Pipeline.

Starting in 1978 and continuing for over 40 years, Jack was one of competitive surfing's most revered judges, traveling on the pro tour around the world, paying witness and making the call on some of surfing's most memorable performances. In short, he's seen it all.

Today, Shipley lives near Diamond Head, where he spoke with Jamie Brisick about Lightning Bolt's early days, the legacy of Gerry Lopez, watching surf history unfold in real time, and the qualities that define the greats.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin)

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com

Born in 1971, Taylor Knox started surfing at age eight, riding the beach breaks of his local Oxnard, California. At 13, he and his family moved to North County San Diego, where his surfing thrived. But at 15, he had a major spinal surgery that put him in a body cast for six months. This mortality brush with his dreams may in some way account for the ferocity with which Knox surfs.

After a strong amateur run, he entered the pro ranks in 1993 alongside his Momentum Generation brethren. But while airs and reverses had entered the surf lexicon, Knox was a power surfer—all about deep rail carves. His run on the World Tour was a long one, from 1993 to 2011.

Knox retired from the world tour in 2012 at age 41. He's since thrown himself into a rigorous physical fitness routine. And he continues to do his trademark cutback.

In this episode of Soundings, Knox talks with Jamie Brisick about recovering from injury, the Momentum Generation, his competitive career, seeing lines and angles, his influences, bridging eras, surfing Todos Santos, and the making of his profile film Arc.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin)

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com

Born in 1953, raised in Hawaii, Keone Downing started surfing at age five at Waikiki. He's won many surf contests, but his crowning achievement, undoubtedly, is winning the 1990 Eddie, on a board shaped by his father, the late George Downing, one of the founders of modern surfing, a big-wave pioneer, a design innovator, and a Waikiki beach boy.

Keone inherited his father's waterman ethos. A devoted outrigger canoe paddler, he and his team won five Molokai to Oahu races in the 1980s, and Keone was the 1988 World Canoe Surfing Champion.

Today, Keone and his sister, Kaiulu, run Downing Hawaii, the shop their father launched in 1968. Keone shapes, surfs, fathers, grandfathers. He's attuned to the ocean and conscious of surfing's roots, history, and spiritual leanings in a way that's palpable.

In this episode of Soundings, Keone talks with Jamie Brisick about his father, the birth of modern surfboard design and the influence of wartime innovations in aerodynamics, the values of teamwork, and surfing Waimea Bay.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin)

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com

Born in Florida and raised in Puerto Rico, Dylan Graves is widely known as the creator and host of Weird Waves, a web series in which he chases all manner of freak waves, among them the Severn Bore in England, the Eisbach River in Germany, and the Bono Seven Ghosts in Indonesia, where he got a five-minute ride and did something like 46 turns.

It wasn't always like this. Graves started out doing contests and dreaming of a more conventional kind of pro surfing. But he followed his bliss and took his career into his own hands.

A couple years back, Graves launched his own YouTube channel. His episodes are personal, diaristic, offering a strong sense of who Graves is and from where he came via traveling to locales and waves that most surfers would bypass altogether. Graves does the writing and the editing. The episodes are along the lines of Anthony Bourdain's No Reservations, but instead of pork dumplings and pastrami sandwiches, we get waves kicked up by ship wakes and calving icebergs.

Travel is at the heart. And traveling brought Graves to the Gold Coast of Australia, where he now lives with his wife and their son.

In this episode of Soundings, Graves sits down with host Jamie Brisick to talk about the joys of being an outsider, chasing rarity in the water, grief, the editing process, and preparing for the unknown.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin) Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com

Born in 1950, raised on the west side of LA, Craig R. Stecyk III is a multidisciplinary artist whose work spans film, fine art, commercial design, writing, and photography.

He's widely known for the "Dogtown Chronicles," which featured in Skateboarder magazine in the 1970s. In fact, Stecyk co-founded Zephyr, which spawned the hugely influential Z-Boys. During that time, in addition to documenting the scene through his writing and photography, he applied his singular graphic design sensibility to create the Rat Bones and the Dogtown Cross. Later, he co-wrote the award-winning 2001 documentary Dogtown and Z-Boys with Stacy Peralta, which further chronicled the Dog Town scene and its characters.

Since the 1970s Stecyk's written many pieces about surfing, most notably "The Curse of the Chumash," which appeared in Surfer in 1976. Focused on Malibu, it blended local history, surf-skate mythology, and a heap of counterculture irony. His art installations include Road Rash, in which he scraped up roadkill, bronzed it, and returned it to the exact spot where he'd found it. In 1989 he made Papa Moana, featuring Hawaiian objects and artifacts. He helped curate Surf Culture: The Art History of Surfing, a 2002 exhibition at the Laguna Art Museum. He's written essays for several surf-related books, among them 1936-1942: San Onofre to Point Dume. A surfboard shaped and painted by Stecyk resides in the permanent archive of the Smithsonian.

As filmmaker and artist Thomas Campbell puts it, "Craig's our patron saint of outsiderness, of being creative without bounds. His influence is so omnipresent you don't even see it."

In this episode of Soundings, Stecyk sits down with host Jamie Brisick to talk about growing up in coastal Los Angeles, the Dogtown era, the strange artifacts that find their way into an artist's life, the challenge of making something that withstands time, and getting checked out of school by Miki Dora to go surf.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin)

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com

Dion Agius burst on to surfing's global stage with a spectacular Gorkin Flip in the 2009 surf flick Secret Machine. He fell in with filmmakers Joe G, Taylor Steele, and Kai Neville, appearing in a slew of films, among them Castles in the Sky, Stranger Than Fiction, Modern Collective, Lost Atlas, Dear Suburbia, Cluster, Year Zero, and Strange Rumblings in Shangri-La. Agius' parts punch—he surfs with a powderkeg intensity. Every hack, every blowtail, every fanging air is done as if his life depends upon it.

A man of style in and out of the water, Dion co-founded Epokhe Eyewear, The Octopus is Real, Standard Procedure. He's the creative director at Ritual Vision. He's collaborated on shoe and clothing collections with Globe and Former, and surfboard models with Hayden Cox.

In 2024, while nursing a broken leg, he created NOID, an art project in which he upcycles old, broken surfboards into sculptures, side tables, lamps, mirrors, and more. Dion currently lives on the southeast coast of Australia.

In this episode of Soundings, Agius sits down with host Jamie Brisick to talk about his favorite surf movies, moving from rural Tasmania to the Gold Coast of Australia as a kid, traveling the globe, his surf heroes, and shaping old foam into artwork.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin)

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com

Jack Johnson is a multi-platinum-selling singer-songwriter, surfer, and environmentalist.

Before turning to playing music professionally, Johnson had designs on a career as a pro surfer. Having grown up on the North Shore of Oahu, and, in particular, having made his way toward the center of the peak at Pipe, he was well on his way by his early twenties. However, he headbutted the reef out there, got more than 100 stitches in his forehead, and lost teeth.

Johnson subsequently went to UCSB to study film. He and his friend Chris Malloy cooked up the idea for what would become the seminal surf flick Thicker Than Water. A couple years later, they followed up with The September Sessions.

Johnson had been playing guitar and writing songs since childhood, and on one of the trips for his movies, he wrote a song called "Rodeo Clowns," which related to a trick his buddy Kelly Slater was working on. Johnson recorded the song with his friend G. Love of G. Love & Special Sauce. "Rodeo Clowns" became a hit.

His music career took off. One day he was a shy kid playing to a small crowd at the Belly Up in Solana Beach. The next he was on every radio station. Nine records, many hits, and a laundry list of awards followed.

In 2008, he and his wife, Kim, created the Johnson Ohana Charitable Foundation, a non-profit public charity supporting environmental, art, and music education worldwide. They have three kids and live on the North Shore. Johnson still surfs regularly. In fact, his life is not terribly dissimilar to the one he knew growing up—though he's now a household name, sells out major venues, and sometimes hears his own music playing in the supermarket.

In this episode of Soundings, Johnson sits down with host Jamie Brisick to talk about growing up in Hawaii, his early dreams of pro surfing, the art of the soundtrack, connecting with nature, the making of Thicker Than Water and The September Sessions, penning lyrics, and the accident that changed the course of his life.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin)

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com

Jared Mell is a surfer and shaper who grew up in Orange County, California, surfing Blackies and riding alt equipment—primarily longboards, but also eggs, fishes, alaias, etc. Mell's competed in many events, and landed many decent results, but they seem almost incidental to what he brings to the surf buffet.

"Jared will be walking the nose backside and at the last second he'll turn switch," says Alex Knost, "and as I'm watching and celebrating that sort of maneuvering, he'll take an extra step with one foot over, do a head dip and whip his hair back, and dramatically recover into a matador-like soul arch with his eyes wide as can be and just staring into my soul, and then he'll burst into laughter as he rides past."

"I used to call Jared the one-man party," says filmmaker Jack Coleman. "Any function or hang was always full of mischief and laughs, hence the nickname, 'J-Rad.' He surfs radical and lives radical, always pushing the limits on land and in the water. Jared's a performance artist. Spontaneous. Unpredictable. From his reverse tube riding to his sultry transitions, Jared makes you watch."

Mell has appeared in many surf films, among them Polyester, Groove Move, Free Jazz, Forbidden Trim, and Yi-Wo. His waves stand out. He surfs with an ease and grace and looseness that seems less the product of a serious training regimen than not trying too hard—like someone who perhaps adds a few beers to that "not trying too hard." And maybe a couple of cigarettes, too.

"Jared Mell is the personification of the modern transitional surfer spanning the front-footed universe, into the back-footed and beyond," says Thomas Campbell. "He's the king of fun. He's a professional professional at having fun."

Today, Mell is based in Bali, where he moved around 2009. He lives and shapes in the Canggu area.

In this episode of Soundings, Mell talks with Jamie Brisick about growing up in Newport Beach, maintaining perspective, staying loose, scoring waves at unexpected moments, and ditching contests to see Chaka Khan perform live in concert.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin). Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com

Paige Alms was born in British Columbia, moved to Maui when she was nine, found surfing, found surf contests, and, around the age of 15, found big waves. They would become her forte, specifically Jaws, located not far from her home in Haiku.

She spent a lot of time out there, riding waves of course, but also learning the lineup. It paid off. In 2015, she knifed her way into a bomb, angled high, and got terrifically barreled. That year she won the Women's Best Overall Performance at the WSL Big Wave Awards. In 2016 and 2017 she was named big-wave world champion. Alms is a three-time winner of the Peahi Challenge—in 2016, 2017, and 2019. She's the subject of The Wave I Ride, a feature-length documentary about her surfing life. In 2023, she became one of the first women to compete in The Eddie.

Alms lives in Maui with her longtime partner/shaper, Sean Ordonez. She continues to push the boundaries of the riding giant surf while also helping to teach ocean safety through Big Wave Risk Assessment Group courses.

In this episode of Soundings, Alms sits down with host Jamie Brisick to talk about paddling out to Jaws for the first time, training, the evolution of big-wave surfing, ocean safety, and competing in The Eddie. Presented by Rainbow® Sandals

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

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Born and raised in Newport, Rhode Island, Sid Abruzzi came to surfing and skateboarding in the early 1960s. In 1969, 18-year-old Abbruzzi drove down to New Jersey to buy a few Rick single-fins, as surfboards were hard to come by in Rhode Island back then. He swiftly sold the boards, then sold another batch, and found a liking for this buying and selling business.

In 1971, Abbruzzi opened Water Brothers Surf and Skate, which became the hub of surf-skate culture in Rhode Island. And in the spirit of "If you build it, they will come," the various quarterpipes, halfpipes, and full-scale skateparks that Abbruzzi spearheaded attracted the world's greatest skateboarders.

Hailed as the "Godfather of New England surfing," Abbruzzi is a regular at Ruggles, the fabled reef break along the scenic Newport Cliff Walk. When it became endangered, he stepped up as the spot's most vocal advocate, fighting the good fight—and winning.

Abbruzzi is a punk rocker. In 1981, he, his brother, and some friends started the band Big World. Abbruzzi was the lead singer. He threw body and blood into the shows. Big World opened for Iggy Pop, The Tubes, and Johnny Thunders, among others.

Abbruzzi is the subject of Water Brother: The Sid Abbruzzi Story, a 2024 feature documentary.

Now 74, Abbruzzi lives with his wife Danielle not far from the break where he first rode his first waves some 60-plus years ago.

In this episode of Soundings, Abbruzzi talks with Jamie Brisick about the founding of Water Brothers, the commitment of cold water surfing, building his legendary skatepark, playing music, and shaping New England's surf and skate scene for over half a century. Presented by Rainbow® Sandals

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

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Hailing from Noosa, Australia, Harry Bryant is a frothing, underground charger who'll drive halfway across Australia to hunt for remote slabs. He's also a bonafide surf star—his blond bowl-cutted head recognizable in lineups worldwide.

One window into his full throttle operation and persona is 2024's Motel Hell, a full-length surf feature that he made with director Dave Fox. It contains a storyline, scenes shot in Outback pubs, a mysterious psychedelic milk, and a glut of meaty tubes.

Bryant experiments with all manner of surfboard design, takes a healthy interest in surf history, and throws himself into his travels, which is to say he goes slow, gets down with the locals, and often rides boards from area shapers.

His most recent offering is Roasted, also directed by Fox. The title describes what happens to the skin after a marathon session in warm climes. There are, of course, many barrels and many rail carves and vicious hacks.

In this episode of Soundings, Bryant talks with Jamie Brisick about road tripping through Australia, finding balance, the chaotic making of Motel Hell, his introduction to Hawaii, and his fascination with surf craft.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com

Australian-born, California-raised Rob Machado is known for many things, but perhaps most of all he's known for making it look easy.

After an accomplished amateur career, Machado, a member of the New School generation, joined the world tour in 1993. He rose to second overall in 1995, the year he famously high-fived Kelly Slater in the semifinals of the Pipe Masters with the title on the line. He finished in the top 16 in following years, including number three in 2000, the same year he won the Pipe Masters.

But a broken wrist caused him to drop to 46th in 2001. He hoped to get the injury wild card into the 2002 season. But he didn't. At the time, after almost a decade on the world tour and numerous event wins, it felt like a slight. Now it looks like divine intervention.

Machado set off on the path that he's been on for the last 20-plus years. Free surfing. Board exploration. Far-flung travel. One of the world's best surfers unshackled from the constraints of competition and let loose.

Machado's been featured in many surf films, including Momentum in 1992, What's Next? in 1996, Thicker Than Water in 1999, Shelter in 2001, and The Drifter in 2009. He founded the Rob Machado Surf Classic in 1997. He's thrown the first pitch at more than one Padres game. He's jammed onstage with Eddie Vedder and Jack Johnson. The list goes on and on.

In this episode of Soundings, Machado talks with Jamie Brisick about stepping away from competition, unlocking states of bliss in the water, the peak moments of his career, desire, creativity in surfing, and his high-five with Kelly Slater in the channel at Pipe.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com.

The daughter of an American father and a Japanese mother, Shirley Rogers was born in Japan in 1953. She spent her first nine years there, then a few years in Texas. At 16, she moved with her parents to Oahu. At Campbell High School on the Westside, she took photography classes and found a passion for it. She also found surfing—the act of riding waves, the culture, and the community.

In 1971, her parents moved back to Texas. Having freshly graduated, Rogers chose to stay in Hawaii. She moved to the then rural and untapped North Shore and fell in with the surf luminaries of the era—Jeff Hakman, Gerry Lopez, Rory Russell, Eddie Rothman, Shaun Tomson, and Peter Townend, among many others.

One day at Waimea Bay, filmmakers Jack McCoy and Dick Hoole handed Shirley a 650 Century lens and a tripod and told her to, essentially, "have at it." She was amazed by what she saw through that telephoto lens. These were the days before auto-focus, and it was a true challenge to follow the surfer and nail the shot, but Rogers was a quick study. She submitted her photos to Surfer, Surfing, and Tracks magazines. They ran them. Soon she was getting paid for her work.

There were few female surf photographers on the 1970s and '80s North Shore. Rogers gained a reputation for her tight, sharp, well-composed images, typically shot from the beach. Her portraiture emitted a candid and all-access quality—she was merely shooting her pals, who also happened to be the most sought-after surf stars of the time.

She traveled—to Indonesia, Australia, Tahiti. She photographed the nascent women's pro events. She moonlighted as a bartender at the Kuilima, today known as the Turtle Bay Resort. In her spare time, she rode dirt bikes. In the late 1980s, Shirley gave up surf photography, got a sales job, and moved from the North Shore to Honolulu. Now 72, Rogers lives in Huntington Beach.

In this episode of Soundings, Rogers talks with Jamie Brisick about changes on the North Shore, capturing waves less trodden, surfing's commercialization, her favorite spots to shoot, and tiger tracks in Indonesia.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com.

Born in 1984, Kai Neville came to surfing at age 11 on the Sunshine Coast, where his dad pushed him into his first waves. He loved it, aspired to be a pro, but soon realized he might be better off behind the camera rather than in front of it.

He got a job at McDonald's, saved up for a High-8 Sony Handycam, and started creating short surf films, which led to a job making promo DVDs for Australia's Surfing Life magazine, and then a gig working with renowned filmmaker Taylor Steele. Under Steele, Neville got a crash course in surf filmmaking when he worked on 2008's Stranger Than Fiction, for which he was a videographer and editor.

Neville's first major surf film, 2010's Modern Collective, landed with a major splash. Not only did it announce a group of surfers that would define the decade to come—Jordy Smith, Dane Reynolds, Dion Agius, Yadin Nicol, Mitch Coleborn, Dusty Payne, and Craig Anderson—but it announced Neville's singular vision as the lenspiece of a new generation.

Then came Lost Atlas in 2011, Dear Suburbia in 2012, and Cluster in 2015—all of them oozing with innovative surfing. The Neville thumbprint is distinctive: He has a love of unbridled aerialists. His musical tastes are broad and experimental. His titles are also as eclectic as his eye. For instance, his shorts: "The Quieter You Are, The More You Can Hear." "Welcome Elsewhere." "No One Knows Me Like the Ocean."

Along with his surf films, Kai is an accomplished commercial director and photographer, working with brands like Corona, Nike, IWC, Schaffhausen, and Shiseido. He also loves print media, and co-founded What Youth with Travis Ferre.

Today, Neville lives with his wife and two boys in the Northern Rivers region of New South Wales, not far from Byron Bay.

In this episode of Soundings, Neville talks with Jamie Brisick about chasing creativity, learning his trade under Taylor Steele, the magnetism of misfit surfers, the art of titling and soundtracking, his enduring love for print, and the grind behind some of his most iconic films.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com.

Born in 1954, hailing from Victoria, Australia, Maurice Cole started surfing at age 12. He got good fast, and won Victorian State Titles in 1973 and 1976. However, he got busted for possession of hash oil, which, after trial, led to a little over two years in jail. That obviously stalled his competitive ascent, but also proved to be formative.

He got out in 1978 and surfed vigorously around the Bells region, where he lived. He got third in the National Titles in 1979. That qualified him for the 1980 World Surfing Championships, held in the southwest of France. He traveled there, finaled, and fell in love with the place and its abundance of untapped, A-grade beachbreak.

Maurice was also a prolific shaper. He had a good life at home—R&Ding his designs at mysto spots and pushing the envelope in big waves with his sparring partner, Wayne Lynch.

But France beckoned. In 1982, he and his wife, Anne, moved to Hossegor. Maurice shaped under his own label, helped establish Quiksilver and Rip Curl, and played a key role in the foundation of the European surf industry, notably the Surfrider Foundation. But perhaps most memorably to Maurice himself, and to readers of the early '80s surf mags, he got terrifically barreled.

A few years later Maurice came up with the reverse vee design. Tom Curren picked one up and surfed incredibly well on it, which led to a period where seemingly every top pro had ordered a reverse vee from Maurice.

In the mid-1990s, Maurice moved to the Margaret River area of Western Australia. He continued shaping boards for the world's best, among them Taj Burrow. In the late '90s, Maurice and cohorts Ross Clarke-Jones and Brendan "Margo" Margieson brought tow-surfing to the West Oz scene.

A raconteur, an environmentalist, an outspoken critic of what he refers to as "vanilla," Maurice is the quintessential designer/surfer, who's still devoted to the craft of shaping and test piloting surfboards.

In this episode of Soundings, Maurice talks with Jamie Brisick about his biggest shaping influences, learning from the Hawaiians, intrinsic joy, outgrowing introversion, his time in prison, falling in love with Hossegor, developing the reverse vee, and working with Tom Curren.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com.

Nathan Florence, the middle of the three Florence brothers, was born in Hawaii in 1994. Like his older brother, three-time world champion John, and younger brother, Pipe charger and ace skateboarder Ivan, Nathan grew up in a beachfront house looking out to Pipeline, and made the seamless progression from building sandcastles on the beach to getting spit out of tubes in what was ostensibly his backyard.

Nathan competed in amateur events, but they were never his thing. He preferred big, heavy waves, and he got friendly with Mack truck-sized barrels. Technology conspired in Nathan's favor, specifically YouTube. He started vlogging and his clips connected.

Today, with more than half-a-million followers, Nathan's on what he's dubbed "the Slab Tour," where he searches the planet far and wide for mutant waves. Nathan's wife, Mahina, shoots many of the clips.

Nathan and Mahina live on the North Shore. Complimenting his heavy-water surfing is his role with Florence, the family brand, for which he and his brothers are hands-on in the R&D, test piloting, and overall vision.

In this episode of Soundings, Nathan talks with Jamie Brisick about mastering fear, growing up at Pipeline, his brothers, why competition was never a fit, training, close calls, how vlogging changed his life, foiling, and the Slab Tour.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com.

Born in 1937, Mickey Muñoz moved from New York to Los Angeles at age six, started surfing at age 10, and swiftly found Malibu's First Point. He became one of the top surfers out there, and made friends with the regulars—Joe Quigg, Matt Kivlin, Miki Dora.

Muñoz eventually moved to Hawaii, where he rode Waikiki and worked restaurant jobs to get by. He soon found his way out to the North Shore, which was a new frontier at the time, becoming part of the pioneering crew at Waimea Bay.

Muñoz appeared in the new Surfer magazine in 1960, riding at Malibu with Dora and Mike Doyle, all three on the same board, as well as doing the first ever "Quasimoto," a head dip with the front arm aimed forward.

Muñoz competed in and won contests, among them the Tom Morey Invitational noseriding event, in 1965, for which the prize was a whopping $750. He shaped surfboards for Hobie, got deep into sailing and catamarans, and brought what he'd learned on the open seas to wave-riding and board design. He wrote a memoir, No Bad Waves: Talking Story with Mickey Muñoz, published in 2011.

But Muñoz's legacy is as much about simply living and perpetuating the joy of the surfing life as it is about benchmarks or achievements. And he's still doing it, at age 87.

In this episode of Soundings, Muñoz talks with Jamie Brisick about Malibu's golden age, experimenting with shorter boards, early days on the North Shore, riding Waimea, modern performance surfing, riding waves into his eighties, and Miki Dora.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com.

Born and raised in San Diego, Devon Howard came to surfing at age seven. He gravitated to longboarding—both the wave-riding approach and the culture. A graduate of the University of San Diego, he served as managing editor of Longboard magazine from 1999 to 2004. For the next decade or so, he worked as a freelance writer and photographer, and held marketing positions with Patagonia and Spy Optic.

But he never let his surfing slip. He competed in pro longboarding events in the 1990s, then did the short-lived ASP Longboard Tour through the early aughts. He appeared in several surf films—The Seedling, Sprout, One California Day, Single Fin Yellow, and Self Discovery for Social Survival. In 2014, at age 40, he won the Deus 9-Foot & Single contest in Bali.

Today, Howard works as the Global Marketing Director for Channel Islands. He's also known widely as a proponent of the egg, or midlength, design.

In this episode of Soundings, Howard talks with Jamie Brisick about what makes a great surfboard, working in surfing, the allure of eggs, riding for Donald Takayama, and traditional longboarding.

Presented by Rainbow® Sandals.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Become a TSJ member at surfersjournal.com.

Born in Hawaii in 1983 and raised in a beachfront home on the North Shore, with a view out to Pipeline, Jamie O'Brien started surfing at age three.

As an amateur, he went on a contest trajectory—making the finals of the menehune division of the 1995 and '96 US Surfing Championships, and the finals in the 1999 and 2000 World Junior Championships. Most impressive, though, was his close relationship with Pipeline. He seemed to toy with the world's deadliest wave. In 2003, he won the Hansen's Energy Pipeline Pro. In 2004, he won the Pipe Masters.

In the aughts, O'Brien revealed his defiant side when he burned an ASP rulebook in a Red Bull-sponsored video. He took his career into his own hands, starring in the videos Freak Show, Freak Side, and Who is JOB?, the latter of which led to a web series. In it, he was self-effacing, absurdist, and refreshingly not serious.

The videos resonated with viewers, and soon O'Brien became his own brand, making YouTube clips that would shoot into the million-views realm. He rode soft tops at big Pipe. He pulled wild stunts, including famously bringing pyrotechnics to Teahupoo.

Now 42, O'Brien lives just down the beach from the house he grew up in. He's recently founded a surf school, The Jamie O'Brien Experience. And he's still charging, playing, and documenting it all.

In this episode of Soundings, O'Brien talks with Jamie Brisick about growing up on the North Shore, the hierarchy at Pipeline, his relationship to competition, getting creative in the lineup, and documenting his day-to-day life on camera.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Born in Tustin, California, James Nestor spent his teens surfing and playing in a straight-edge punk band called Care Unit. After graduating high school, he moved to the Bay Area, where he studied art and literature and earned an MFA.

Nestor's professional life began as a copywriter. Soon he moved into magazine journalism. His essays and features have appeared in Outside, Scientific American, The New York Times, The Atlantic, Dwell, The Surfer's Journal, and many others.

His 2014 book, DEEP: Freediving, Renegade Science, and What the Ocean Tells Us About Ourselves, follows clans of extreme athletes, adventurers, and scientists as they plumb the ocean's depths and uncover surprising new discoveries.

But his big book is, of course, 2020's Breath: The New Science of a Lost Art, which explores the million-year-long history of how we humans have lost the ability to breathe properly, and why we're suffering from various maladies because of it. Along with drawing on thousands of years of medical texts and recent cutting-edge studies in pulmonology, psychology, biochemistry, and human physiology, Nestor also found answers in the muddy digs of ancient burial sites, secret Soviet facilities, New Jersey choir schools, and the smoggy streets of Sao Paulo. In sum, Breath turns the conventional wisdom of what we thought we knew about our most basic biological function on its head.

Nestor has been a guest speaker at Stanford Medical School, Harvard Medical School, Yale School of Medicine, and the United Nations. He currently lives in Portugal.

In this episode of Soundings, Nestor talks with Jamie Brisick about the fundamentals of breathwork, Ocean Beach, growing up in Orange County, his early days as a reporter, the values of freediving, and writing books.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett.

Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Born in 1955, hailing from Durban, South Africa, Shaun Tomson won the IPS world title in 1977. He did 14 seasons on the world tour, and won 12 events, including the 1975 Pipeline Masters, in which he made giant leaps for backside tube riding. He starred in many '70s and '80s surf films, among them Free Ride, where he's seen pumping through the barrel at Backdoor and Off the Wall—an entirely new thing at the time.

But Tomson's surfing was only part of the equation. He was business minded, and in the late '70s launched a clothing label, Instinct, and in 1985 a surf shop, Surfbeat, in Santa Monica. He holds a BA in Business Finance. In 1991, Australia's Surfing Life mag named him as the world's all-time best tube rider. Tomson co-produced Bustin' Down the Door, a 2008 documentary film chronicling the rise of pro surfing in the early '70s. He's the author of the best-selling Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life.

In this episode of Soundings, Tomson sits down with host Jamie Brisick to talk about transformative experiences in the tube, growing up in South Africa, the influence of his father, the highs and lows of his professional career, writing his book, and the passing of his son.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Born in 1976, hailing from Narrabeen on the northern beaches of Sydney, Oscar "Ozzie" Wright burst onto the scene in the mid-1990s and swiftly ascended to global surf fame—never in contests, but nearly always doing something imaginative, like flying through the air, doing spell-casting things with the tube, or surfing remote Indo in a pair of handcrafted bat wings.

Wright appeared in a number of Volcom-produced videos, among them BS!, Psychic Migrations, Lobotomy, and One Hundred and Fifty Six Tricks. A prolific maker of artwork in a variety of mediums including painting, drawing, sculpture, collage, ceramics, furniture, skate ramps, film, and video, Wright is also lead singer of the Goons of Doom, an experimental, piss-taking punk band.

In this episode of Soundings, Wright sits down with host Jamie Brisick to talk about the differences between North and South Narrabeen, airs, childhood memories, the influence of grunge, dealing with criticism, style, unlocking the self through creativity, going on tour with his band, and finding fun in subpar waves.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Born in Hawaii in 1961, Danny Kwock rode his first waves at Waikiki when he was ten. Surfing took a brief hiatus when he moved with his family to the San Fernando Valley, but picked up soon thereafter when they moved to Newport Beach, right at Wedge, which is where Kwock made his mark, charging big waves and becoming one of the brightest, flashiest surfers of the Echo Beach scene, wearing pink boardshorts and riding polka dot twin-fins when most Californians followed a far more understated ethos.

Kwock was featured on the cover of Surfer and Surfing magazines in the early 1980s, did a short stint on the world pro tour, but soon became a forerunner to what we now know of as a professional "freesurfer." But he also saw the virtues of the long game. When the opportunity arose to work in a behind-the-scenes role at Quiksilver, he jumped at it, and he hit his straps as the marketing director, a position he held from the early 1980s up until the mid-aughts. (It should be noted that Kwock's relationship with Quiksilver began a few years earlier, when he and his Echo Beach buddy Preston Murray got caught stealing boardshorts from the warehouse.) Kwock's early team captain/marketing position started in what were wild days. The industry grew fast, and he played an instrumental role in that growth.

In this episode of Soundings, Kwock talks with Jamie Brisick about meeting Duke Kahanamoku, surfing Wedge, the Echo Beach era, fashion, negotiating contracts, Andy Warhol, the wild days of the surf industry, and signing Kelly Slater to Quiksilver.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

For more than two decades, Sachi Cunningham has been training her lens on women and the pioneers of big-wave surfing.

After earning a BA in history from Brown University and a Masters of Journalism from UC Berkeley, Cunningham started the first video team at the LA Times, where she produced the award-winning series Chasing the Swell, which documents the first ever Big Wave World Tour. She was the first person, male or female, ever to have water shots published of wily Ocean Beach.

Other "firsts" include serving as the first female board member of Save the Waves Coalition and first woman to receive the Wave Saver Award from the non-profit. She documented the first women's heats at the Mavericks WickrX Invitational, the Puerto Escondido Big Wave Challenge, the Da Hui Backdoor Shootout, and The Eddie. Cunningham has been included in both Surfline's list of top filmmakers and Surfer magazine's list of top photographers. Her feature-length documentary, SheChange, about the quest for pay equity in big-wave surfing, is presently in post-production, and has been featured in the New York Times and on the Today show.

A mental health advocate and cancer survivor, Cunningham lives with her husband and daughter in the Outer Sunset neighborhood of San Francisco, where she's a Professor Emerita at San Francisco State University.

In this episode of Soundings, Cunningham sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about shooting from the water at Ocean Beach and Maverick's, the importance of journalism, her quiver, motherhood, and her battle with cancer.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Born in Seattle, Washington, in 1949, Randy Rarick moved with his family to Hawaii when he was five. He started surfing at age 10, under the tutelage of the Waikiki Beach Boys. He was a Hawaiian state junior champ, and made the semifinals of the 1970 World Championships in Australia.

In 1976, at age 26, Randy and 1968 world champion Fred Hemmings founded International Professional Surfing, aka the IPS, which linked together what at the time were fragmented pro events around the world. They established a ratings system and a world tour, which ended with the crowning of a world champion. In 1983, Randy spearheaded the Triple Crown of Surfing, which linked together the three North Shore events, and also crowned a champion. Randy would helm the Triple Crown for the next 30 years.

Randy is also a surfboard shaper. He was taught how to shape by Dick Brewer and George Downing, and went on to make boards for Surf Line Hawaii, Dewey Weber, and Lightning Bolt.

While Randy might be one of the most widely traveled surfers of all time, having ridden waves in over 70 countries, he's called the North Shore home since 1969, and has lived in the same house at Sunset Beach for more than 50 years. He surfs out front, i.e., his backyard, regularly.

In this episode of Soundings, Rarick sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about about the birth of the IPS and the Triple Crown, learning to shape from the masters, rating systems and standardization, surf purism, the importance of Hawaii, and spending a year traveling up the west coast of Africa.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Hailing from the central coast of New South Wales, Australia, Ross Clarke-Jones joined the ASP world tour in 1986, at age 19. He was good in the small waves that the tour typically competed in at that time. But when the surf jacked up to 20-plus feet in the 1986 Billabong Pro at Waimea Bay, Clarke-Jones heaved himself over leadges and exited the water as one of the world's great big waves surfers—and has held that position ever since. He's been a major force in nearly every Eddie, winning that coveted event in 2001. He's paddled Jaws, towed Mavericks, Nazare, and Shipstern Bluff, and pioneered several mutant, way-out-to-sea slabs. He was the subject of the 2006 documentary titled The Sixth Element: The Ross Clarke Jones Story, narrated by the late Dennis Hopper. He and Tom Carroll starred in Storm Riders, a big-wave surfing reality show on the Discovery Channel, which led to Storm Riders 3D, a feature-length documentary.

In this episode of Soundings, Clarke-Jones sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about glory and catastrophe at Waimea Bay, manifestation, his lifelong relationship with Hawaii, racing sports cars, overcoming injury, maintaining motivation, dealing with fear, and the joys of small waves.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Surfwear tycoon Bob Hurley spent his early days around Huntington Beach, California, shaping for labels like Hot Stuff, Infinity, Wave Tools, and Lightning Bolt. After spearheading Billabong USA from 1983 to 1998, Hurley transitioned to the creation of his namesake brand, centered around an ethos of innovation that he observed in the youthful counterculture of Southern California at the time. While he stepped down as Hurley's CEO in 2015, he remains deeply involved in surfing, still sculpting foam, as well as working with John John Florence on the latter's own namesake company.

In this episode of Soundings, Hurley and Jamie Brisick sit down at the executive's ocean-front home in Newport Beach to talk about the key ingredients for his entrepreneurial success, Southern California's surf scene through the decades, the highs and lows of the industry, sponsoring Occy, learning to shape, and legacy.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Born in 1970, raised in Bondi Beach, Australia, Pauline Menczer found her way to the surfboard at age 14. Actually, it was half a surfboard—a snapped hand-me-down from her brother. Four years later she won the 1988 World Amateur Champs, hopped on the ASP world tour, and finished the year ranked fifth overall. Her surfing was loose, springy, full of hurled tail. She won lots of events, and, in 1993, the world title.

Menzcer has appeared in many surf videos, including 1998's Blue Crush (the surf video, not the feature film), 2001's Peaches: The Core of Women's Surfing, and 2004's Surfabout: Down Under. She's the unofficial star of the 2021 documentary Girls Can't Surf. She released her memoir, Surf Like a Woman, in 2024. She was inducted into the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame in 2018.

In this episode of Soundings, Menczer talks with Jamie Brisick about grommethood hazing in Bondi Beach, winning a world title, overcoming adversity, battling stereotypes, adjusting to life after pro surfing, and writing her memoir.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Born in 1986, Chris Burkard grew up on California's Central Coast and knew from a young age that he had to get out. Photography became the avenue. Primarily self-taught, Burkard won the Follow the Light Foundation grant in 2006, and away he went, working as a senior staff photographer for Surfline, Water magazine, and Surfer magazine, as well as freelancing for The New Yorker, National Geographic, and ESPN.com. In 2009, he was contracted by Patagonia to be a projects photographer.

Burkard's photo books include The California Surf Project, Come Hell or High Water: The Plight of the Torpedo People, Distant Shores, High Tide, and The Boy Who Spoke to the Earth. Along with still photographs, he makes films, including Russia: The Outpost Volume 1, Faroes: The Outpost Volume 2, The Cradle of Storms, and Under an Arctic Sky.

You might glean from those titles that Burkard has a penchant for the colder locales. On that note, he started photographing Iceland about two decades ago—and fell so in love with the place that, a couple years ago, he up and moved there with his wife and two sons. Along with photography, Burkard is also an avid adventurer, recently completing a 90-mile fat-tire bike ride across Vatnajökull, Europe's largest glacier.

In this episode of Soundings, Burkard talks to host Jamie Brisick about traveling, Ansel Adams, the allure of cooler climates, finding purpose, moving to Iceland, the state of surf photography, and the challenges and rewards of environmentalism.

Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by PazKa (Aska Matsumiya & Paz Lenchantin).

Born in California in 1948, Jeff Hakman's father introduced him to surfing at age eight. Four years later, the family moved to Oahu, and the year after that, at the age of 13, Hakman surfed Waimea Bay for the first time. In 1965, he was invited to the inaugural Duke Kahanamoku Invitational, held at Sunset Beach. Hakman was 17. He won. In the ensuing years, on his Dick Brewer-shaped boards, Hakman transitioned seamlessly from longboards to shortboards—and went on a winning streak. He won the Duke again in '70 and '71; won the first Pipe Masters in '71; won the Hang Ten Pro and Gunston 500 in '72; and the Hang Ten again in '73. Bookending his stellar competitive run, he won the Bells Beach event in 1976. After winning that event, Hakman sat down with the owners of a fledgling Aussie brand called Quiksilver and convinced them to make him the US licensee.

Today, Hakman lives in Bidart, France, where he sits down with Jamie Brisick for this episode of Soundings to talk about surfboard design, growing up on the North Shore, the birth of the surf industry, humility, and the challenge of returning to an everyday existence after living the extraordinary.

Born and raised on the northern beaches of Sydney, Holly Wawn's father started pushing her into waves at their local Bungan Beach when she was three. She started competing in her teens, won local events, and won the 2012 Australian Junior Titles at age 15. From 2015 to 2019, she competed full-time on the 'QS, bagged a few thirds, but came to realize that she was happiest surfing outside of the contest forum. Now 27, based in Coorabell, near Byron Bay, Wawn is a freesurfer known for her big, swooping hacks.

In this episode of Soundings, Wawn sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about lineup hierarchies, her relationship to competition, life as a freesurfer, producing content, the importance of self-expression, and her cinematic goals.

From Newport, New South Wales, Australia, Derek Hynd is known for his unconventional approach to surfing and all else. Hynd was a pro surfer in the late 1970s and early '80s, making his name both for his surfing in a jersey and for the pieces he wrote for the surf mags of the era. In 1980, while competing in South Africa, he suffered a brutal injury that resulted in the loss of vision in his right eye. He retired after the 1982 season and became a coach, first for Billabong, then for Ripcurl. In 1992, Hynd came up with The Search, Rip Curl's iconic film series starring Tom Curren. Around this time, Hynd bought a prime plot of land at Jeffrey's Bay and built an architectural marvel of a house looking straight out to Supertubes. Design experimentation led Hynd to FFFF, aka Far Field Free Friction, aka finless surfing. Today, he lives near Byron Bay, where he practices his latest obsession: mat riding.

In this episode of Soundings, Hynd sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about his career as a professional surfer, unconventional surfcraft, writing, childhood's golden moments, J-Bay, the allure of going finless, sharks, and how he lost his eye.

Born in 1960 in Sydney, Australia, Cheyne Horan joined the pro tour in 1977 at age 16, and finished second in the world four times, in 1978, '79, '81, and '82. He surfed with an urgency and potency, weaving in and around the pocket on his needle nose, fat-tailed Lazor Zap single-fins. His boards had vibrant, elaborate airsprays. His wetsuits were bright and loud. His hair was peroxide blond. He became a macrobiotic vegetarian, a yogi, a devotee of astrology, and the I Ching. He was outwardly pro-weed and pro-psychedelics.

Horan retired from the pro tour in 1993. Soon after, he began to focus on big waves, riding giant Waimea Bay, Outer Log Cabins, and Jaws. In 1999, he won the Quiksilver Masters World Championships. Today, Horan shapes boards and runs a surf school in Queensland.

In this episode of Soundings, Horan sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about dealing with fame, committing to the single-fin, pro surfing's wild days, and his victory at the 1989 Billabong Pro at Sunset Beach.

Born and raised on Oahu, Kelia Moniz is a two-time world longboarding champion, freesurfer, wife, mother, and entrepreneur. From a deeply rooted surfing family, Moniz rode her first waves around the time she learned to walk. She started competing at age 15, racked up a string of victories, and turned pro shortly thereafter. She is the 2012 and 2013 world longboarding champion. She spent much of the 2010s as a traveling freesurfer. In 2015, on a trip in Tahiti, she rode serious Teahupo'o on a longboard. Now 31 and a mother of two, Moniz and her husband, photographer Joe Termini, recently opened the Honolulu Pawn Shop, which sells clothing and Joe's work.

In this episode of Soundings, Moniz talks to Jamie Brisick about competing, longboarding, her Town roots, living out her dreams, her most memorable trips, overcoming self-doubt, Rell Sunn's legacy, starting her own business, and surfing as a universal language.

Born in Honolulu in 1951, Tom Pohaku Stone made a name for himself at Pipeline in the early 1970s as a stylish goofyfooter. Around that time, he was imprisoned after a drug bust. While incarcerated, he found books and higher learning. He studied, and, after his release, got a job as a lifeguard and enrolled in college. He got his BA in Hawaiian Studies from the University of Hawaii in 1998 at the age of 46. A few years later he earned his MA for his thesis paper about the ancient Polynesian practice of riding papa holua boards—which are long, wooden sleds—down grass-covered mountains. Now a professor of Hawaiian History at University of Hawaii, Pohaku Stone's commitment to the preservation and revival of ancient Polynesian knowledge and practices extends beyond academia and into his personal life as a surfer and shaper.

In this episode of Soundings, Pohaku Stone sits down with Jamie to talk about the early days at Pipeline, finding solace in the past, his Hawaiian heritage, sobriety, Jose Angel, finding academia, and memorable moments on the North Shore.

Michele Lockwood is an artist, writer, photographer, clothing designer, mother, activist, and environmental scientist. She grew up in the boroughs of New York City and started sneaking out to hip-hop gigs, house music clubs, and punk shows while in high school. She hung out at the Brooklyn Banks in the late 1980s, and played the character "Kim" in Larry Clark's 1995 film Kids. The X-girl logo, designed by Mike Mills, was based on her face, which led her to becoming a clothing designer in Tokyo with her own brand, called Material. Lockwood has lived in Australia for the last 20-odd years with her partner, Andrew Kidman, on a rural property in the hills between Byron Bay and the Gold Coast. Recently, Lockwood has started working for a not-for-profit Indigenous organization that helps to build more resilient communities and ecosystems. In her spare time, she studies and publishes papers on a local endangered frog species.

In this episode of Soundings, Lockwood sits down with Jamie Brisick at the Big Sky compound to talk about her teenage years, creativity, fashion, surfing in California, Kids, music, the artistic process, moving to Australia, and the study of frogs.

Born in 1944 in Queensland, Australia, Bob McTavish started surfing at age 12 on a 16-foot plywood paddle board. Best known as a surfboard shaper, he started working with Sydney's biggest board builders at age 17, then became a major player in the shortboard revolution. He worked closely with George Greenough and Nat Young, helping Young design "Magic Sam," the thinner, lighter, shorter longboard that would win Young the 1966 World Championships in San Diego, California. In 1967, McTavish produced the first vee bottom, nicknamed the "Plastic Machine." Shortly thereafter, he and Young were seen tearing it up at Honolua Bay in Paul Witzig's The Hot Generation. In the late '70s, McTavish wrote several essays for surf magazines talking up the long- and mid-range boards he was shaping. In 2009, Bob penned Stoked!, his memoir. Now in his eighties, a father of five and a grandfather, McTavish is still actively shaping and surfing.

In this episode of Soundings, McTavish sits down with Jamie Brisick inside his factory to talk about his prolific shaping career, stowing away to Oahu, Magic Sam, The Hot Generation, Dick Brewer, and his most memorable moments in the water.

Born in 1981 on Oahu, Mark Healey started surfing at age three, turned pro by the time he was 17, and made his name in heavy, scary waves, first in Hawaii, then around the world. But big-wave surfing was only part of it. An avid diver, Healey won the World Cup of Spearfishing in La Paz, Mexico, in 2008. And then there were sharks. In 2011, he traveled to Mexico's Guadalupe Island to dive with great whites for a Nat Geo TV shoot. Outside magazine called him "the greatest athlete you've never heard of." Recently, he founded Healey Water Operations, synthesizing all his singular skills into a personal brand.

In this episode of Soundings, Healey sits down with Jamie Brisick on the North Shore to talk about his first Pipe session, the nuances of discerning the personalities of sharks, weaving together experiential and scientific knowledge, chasing after big surf, the ins and outs of spearfishing, and staying composed in heavy situations.

Kylie Manning is a painter, surfer, and fisher based in Brooklyn, New York. Her parents were both art teachers, and, while she was growing up, the family moved between their home in Juneau, Alaska, to various regions in Mexico, which would inform her artwork—and her surfing. She is a graduate of Mount Holyoke College, Massachusetts with a double major in philosophy and visual arts. While she was getting her MFA at the New York Academy of Art, she had a captain's license to operate 500-ton commercial fishing boats on international waters, and spent her summers catching salmon on the Pacific coast. Manning has gained global respect for her abstract figurative paintings, which embody powerful yet delicate compositions with brushstrokes that seem to be in motion. Her work is held in numerous collections worldwide, including the Columbus Museum of Art, Ohio; Institute of Contemporary Art, Miami, Florida; and the X and Yuz Museums in China.

In this episode of Soundings, Manning talks with Jamie Brisick about weather and wonderment, beauty and brawls aboard commercial fishing vessels, atmospheric fascination, style, her proudest artworks, the nuances between grit and growth, and her collaboration with the New York City Ballet.

Born in 1950 in San Diego, California, Jeff Divine is one of surfing's preeminent photographers and photo editors. Divine began photographing anything and everything around his hometown of La Jolla, California, as a teenager. Surfer magazine first published his photos in 1968, and by the early 1970s his work was all over the surf sphere. He shot everything—water and action, portraiture, lifestyle, landscapes, travel. He was the photo editor for Surfer from 1981 to 1998, then occupied the same position at The Surfer's Journal until 2016. He's published several books, among them Masters of Surf Photography: Jeff Divine, Surfing Photographs From the Seventies Taken by Jeff Divine, and Surfing Photographs From the Eighties Taken by Jeff Divine. His work has been featured in many gallery and museum exhibitions.

In this episode of Soundings, Divine talks with Jamie Brisick swimming at Sunset Beach, the legacy of Ron Stoner, the beauty of the North Shore, art and artifact, Windansea, photographing Andy Irons, color palettes, the evolution of lens technology, and the transition from film to digital.

Lee-Ann Curren is a freesurfer, musician, and artist. She grew up and lives in Biarritz, in the southwest of France. Her father is three-time world champion Tom Curren. Her mother is Marie-Pascale, a top-ranked European surfer in the 1980s. Her grandfather is the late Pat Curren, one of the pioneers of Waimea Bay and shaper of big-wave elephant guns. Her aunt Marie-Paul is the 1967 French national champ, and her aunt Marie-Christine is a six-time French national champ. Though she's won a couple of French national championships herself, Lee-Ann is primarily known as a freesurfer who has woven traveling, music-making, and art into that moniker.

In this episode of Soundings, host Jamie Brisick meets with Lee-Ann in the Basque Country to talk about her family's influence, touring with her band, finding her place, maintaining artistic purity, criticality, and the poetics of movement in sound and water.

Thomas Victor Carroll is a surfing godhead from Newport Beach, Australia, known for his radicality, focus, and power. He competed on the world tour from 1979 to 1993, winning the world title in 1983 and 1984, and taking home a total of 26 event victories, including the Pipeline Masters in 1987, 1990, and 1991. In 1988, he made history by signing surfing's first million-dollar contract. He won the 1984 Surfer Poll and was inducted into the Australian Surfing Hall of Fame in 1990. In the aughts, he teamed up with Ross Clarke-Jones to chase big waves around Australia. In his 2013 autobiography, TC: Tom Carroll, written with his brother, surf journalist Nick Carroll, Tom was very forthcoming about his drug use. Now 62, he's been sober for many years. A calmer, quieter presence, Carroll meditates daily, but still surfs voraciously. In this episode, Carroll talks with Jamie Brisick about the evolution of performance at Pipeline, his first Pipe Masters win, competing in the face of tragedy, helmets, battling addiction, the complexities of a hunger for attention, and his favorite surfers to watch.

Ed Templeton is a professional skateboarder, contemporary artist, and photographer. A teen skate prodigy from Orange County, California, Ed turned pro in 1990, just before graduating high school. He did a lot of touring for skate demos, along the way picking up a camera and documenting the scene around him. He painted and drew, and later incorporated his artwork and graphics for Toy Machine, the skateboard company he founded in 1994, which he continues to own and manage. Templeton's visual artwork first gained recognition in the late 1990s as part of the Beautiful Losers collective loosely gathered around Aaron Rose's Alleged Gallery on Manhattan's Lower East Side. He and his wife Deanna—also a photographer—are the subjects of the 2000 Mike Mills film, Deformer. Templeton's subject matter focuses on the ethos of suburban and street life, which sometimes includes beach culture, surfers, and surfing. He has published over thirty books and zines of his photographs and artwork, including one of his most famous titles, "Teenage Smokers." His work has been shown in galleries and museums around the world, most recently at the Long Beach Museum of Art, in an exhibition titled: Wires Crossed: The Culture of Skateboarding, 1995-2012. In this episode of Soundings, Templeton and Jamie Brisick talk about crafting a sustainable career as a skateboarder, capitalism, skateboarding's DIY ethos, documenting skate culture, becoming a painter, identity, individualism, and Mark Gonzalez.

Leah Dawson grew up in Florida, and moved to Oahu to attend University of Hawaii, where she earned a BA in Creative Media in 2008. Soon after, she started work as a production assistant for the Vans Triple Crown, launching her into a career behind the camera. As a surfer, Dawson's approach is grounded in freedom of expression and dance, on all manner of crafts, with nods to the surfers who have informed her wave-riding odyssey—Rell Sunn, Margo Oberg, Jericho Poppler, and Lynne Boyer, to name but a few. She is the cofounder of Salty Sensations, in which she and her partners, Kassia Meador and Makala Smith, host surf retreats at select spots worldwide. She's also a co-founder of Changing Tides Foundation, a women-led organization that celebrates diversity and inclusivity. In this episode of Soundings, Dawson talks with Jamie Brisick about the importance of believing in something, attaining longevity as a surfer, the Blue Crush generation, the freedom of the glide, lineup dynamics, the power of uplifting others, and the most memorable moments she's captured through the viewfinder.

Matt Warshaw grew up surfing in Los Angeles at a time when surf and skate culture were beginning to meet in Venice Beach and Santa Monica. After a stint as a pro surfer in the 1980s, Warshaw became the editor of Surfer magazine. In 1990, he left his editor's post at Surfer to attend UC Berkeley, where he got his BA in History in 1993. He remained in the Bay Area, parking himself in an apartment in the Sunset District and in countless Ocean Beach barrels. As if personally expanded by all those tubes, Warshaw's writing expanded into lengthy essays, profiles, and books—many books—among them Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing, Above The Roar: 50 Surfer Interviews, Photo/Stoner, Surfriders: In Search of the Perfect Wave, Surf Movie Tonite! Surf Movie Poster Art, 1957-2005, and more. His Encyclopedia of Surfing, first released in 2003, is the most comprehensive tome of surf culture in existence, and he followed it up with 2010's The History of Surfing, a beast of a book that makes music of Warshaw's encyclopedic knowledge. His most recent venture is the EOS dot surf, which is an invaluable online resource for surf obsessives, and features the "Sunday Joint," a reflective op-ed style email that Matt shoots out to subscribers every Sunday. In this episode of Soundings, Warshaw talks with Jamie Brisick about the golden days of Los Angeles, establishing a career as a historian, the value of exploring someone else's world, the importance of preserving history, the challenge of creating a database, his first Jeff Ho board, the Encyclopedia of Surfing, and the art of writing economically.

Born in 1990 in Bangalow, Australia, not far from Byron Bay, Torren Martyn is hailed as one of the great stylists of our time, riding all manner of surfcraft, and with a special penchant for twin-fins. He's also one of surfing's great explorers. In 2016, he and his filmmaker pal Ishka Folkwell spent three months circumnavigating Australia in a Land Rover, riding A-grade waves and documenting their trip in the first installment of the film series Lost Track. In 2018, the duo did a similar trip around New Zealand, this time on motorcycles. In 2019, they bought a Ford Transit and drove it from Europe down to the west coast of Africa on a surf hunt. In 2022, Martyn and his partner, Aiyana Powell, bought a sailboat in Thailand and spent an entire year exploring surf breaks in and around Indonesia, culminating in the film Calypte. In this episode of Soundings, Martyn and Jamie Brisick talk about surfing in the middle of nowhere, forging a free-surfer's path, finding clarity and direction, cultivating a cartographic mindset, gaining confidence as a sailor, his quiver, and the logistics, preparation, and knowledge that went into planning for a year at sea.

Carolyn Murphy is a supermodel, actress, and environmental advocate. Her Vogue shoot with Steven Meisel in the late 1990s launched her into a fruitful, three-decade long career. In 1998 she was named VH1/Vogue's Model of the Year. She played Dubbie in the 1999 feature film Liberty Heights, directed by Barry Levinson. She was also one of the "Modern Muses" on the November 1999 millennium cover of American Vogue. She's also a surfer, and moved from NYC in the late 1990s to be closer to the waves in LA. Today, Murphy is an ambassador for Surfrider, The Wellness Foundation, Animal Haven, Edible Schoolyard NY, Ocean Unite, and No More Plastic. Along with being a mom, activism is a key component in her life. In this episode, Murphy talks with Jamie Brisick about the shock of New York as a young model, the shoots that changed her career, splitting time between Costa Rica and New York, the fashion industry, performativity, the challenges of introversion, surfing, and going against the grain.

Darrick Doerner is a big-wave surfer, tow-surfing pioneer, Hollywood stuntman, and former North Shore lifeguard. He grew up surfing in the LA area in the 1960s and '70s, moved to Hawaii his senior year of high school, and discovered himself joyous and at peace in heavy water. Hungry for waves too big to catch manually, Doerner and his pals Laird Hamilton and Buzzy Kerbox started experimenting with personal watercraft assists in the early 1990s. Not long after, they began towing into Peahi, aka Jaws. In Hollywood, Doerner stunt-doubled for Bodhi, Patrick Swayze's character, in 1991's Point Break, and appeared as a stunt surfer in the 2002 James Bond film Die Another Day. In this episode of Soundings, Doerner and Jamie Brisick talk about the allure of Sunset Beach, his memorable ride at Waimea on Super Bowl Sunday in 1988, friendship, the importance of being attuned to your environment, drawing lines on giant waves, and working with Eddie Aikau.

A writer and editor from San Diego, California, Scott's known throughout the surf sphere for his work with The Surfer's Journal, which he edited from 1999 to 2019, and where he remains as its creative director. Hulet was drawn to words from a young age. At six, Hulet was experimenting with making his own hardbound, nail-stapled books. As a college student, Hulet became well-acquainted with the world of print publications, serving as editor for student-led literary journals and writing for magazines like Revolt In Style and Kema. In the early 1990s, before working at TSJ, he was the editor for Longboard Quarterly. He's recently released a new book, Flow Violento, a collection of more than 30 years of his published works, focused on his lifetime spent traveling, surfing, and fishing throughout Latin America. In this episode of Soundings, Hulet talks with Jamie Brisick about lessons learned from Craig Stecyk, the virtues of reading and writing, getting to know his heroes, facing adversity, health scares, his Baja roots, and his new book.

Hailing from Encinitas, California, Ryan Burch is a goofyfoot, a shaper, a husband, a new father, a free surfer, and a free thinker. His approach to wave-riding might be described as experimental, both in the lines he draws and the surfcraft that he rides—everything from asyms to gliders to old-school twin-keeled fishes to sawed-off chunks of raw foam. Burch shaped his first board at age 20, loved it, shaped more, and soon became a leading figure in the backyard, DIY board building scene. He's appeared in a number of surf films, among them 2010's Stoked and Broke and 2019's Self Discovery for Social Survival. His part in 2015's Psychic Migrations earned him a "Best Performance" nomination in the Surfer Poll Awards. In this episode of Soundings, Burch sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about the virtues of working with your hands, receiving feedback from the ocean, getting comfortable in hollow surf, G-Land, fatherhood, living with intention, entrepreneurship, and his influences.

Robert Trujillo grew up on the westside of Los Angeles, where he found music, skateboarding, and surfing at a young age. He first rose to prominence as the bassist for Suicidal Tendencies, which he played in from 1989 to 1995. He was a member of Ozzy Osbourne's band for a number of years starting in the late '90s. Since 2003, he's been the bassist for Metallica. He played—and still plays—with the funk metal supergroup Infectious Grooves. A goofyfoot, he gets in the water regularly, weaving wave riding into his heavy touring schedule. In this episode of Soundings, Trujillo talks with Jamie Brisick about the moment his life as a musician changed forever, the ebbs and flows of a passion-driven career, the importance of establishing a work ethic, Metallica world tours, Ozzy Osbourne, surfing, finding inspiration, playing in front of massive crowds, and staying grounded.

Five-time world champion Carissa Moore started surfing at age 5 with her dad in the hallowed waters of Waikiki. As an amateur, she won 11 national titles. In 2008, at the age of 16, Moore became the youngest winner of the Triple Crown of Surfing. She qualified for the WCT in 2010, and won world titles in 2011, 2013, 2015, 2019, and 2021, with dozens of event wins along the way. She was the first-ever winner of the Olympic Gold Medal in women's shortboard surfing. More recently, Moore has announced that she will be walking away from competition to devote time to family, making films, and investing energy into her charitable foundation, Moore Aloha. In this episode of Soundings, Moore talks with Jamie Brisick about her decision to step away from the tour, representing Hawaii, friendship, finding community, her proudest moments, the values (and dangers) of mimicry, and overcoming self-doubt.

Mark Cunningham, aka The Human Fish, is hailed as one of the greatest bodysurfers of all time. He grew up in Hawaii, became a lifeguard in the mid-'70s, and for nearly 30 years guarded primarily at Ehukai Beach Park, with a view straight into Pipeline's barrel. Through the '70s, '80s, and '90s, Cunningham won nearly every bodysurfing event he entered. But, as Cunningham would be the first to tell you, bodysurfing is not about winning or losing. Cunningham retired from lifeguarding in 2005, at age 49. In recent years, he's become an obsessive reefcomber, finding fins, sunglasses, watches, and other valuables on the ocean floor. He's also become a visual artist, using his findings in sculptures and assemblages. In this episode of Soundings, Cunningham talks with Jamie Brisick about the multifarious duties of a lifeguard, scanning the impact zone, brushes with fate at Backdoor, playing in the shorebreak, the joys of retirement, Puerto Escondido, and the virtue of leading a simple life.

Award-winning author and The New Yorker staff writer William Finnegan came to surfing early while growing up between Hawaii and Southern California. He helped bring surf writing, as a genre, to the literary fore in 1992 with the publication of his two-part essay "Playing Doc's Games" in The New Yorker, which chronicled both his and "Doc" Renneker's pursuits at Ocean Beach, San Francisco. His 2015 memoir, Barbarian Days, which documented his surfing life, won the Pulitzer Prize. Beyond the surf, Finnegan has devoted much of his career to conflict reporting in regions ranging from Mexico to parts of Asia. In this episode, Finnegan talks with show host Jamie Brisick about the modern marriage of surfing and intellectualism, the importance of asking questions, writing, curiosity, outing himself as a surfer in the context of his career, Bali's dystopian reality, the dissemination of surf culture, and how his experience as a teacher in South Africa during apartheid shaped him as a writer.

A core member of the Momentum Generation and an 11-year veteran of the world tour, Shane Dorian is best known for his big-wave accomplishments over the past 20 years. Born and raised on the Big Island of Hawaii, Dorian received his big-wave education under Brock Little, Todd Chesser, and others after relocating to the North Shore as a teenager. Today, with multiple XXL Awards under his belt and a bag full of some of the most defining rides in history, Dorian has proven a trailblazer in the big-wave realm, helping to consistently redefine what's possible via one's own paddle power. In this episode, Dorian sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about swell tracking, risk assessment, the surfing time warp, decision making in critical moments, family, bowhunting, overcoming self-doubt, and the virtue of patience.

Hailing from the Sunshine Coast, Queensland, freesurfer Jaleesa Vincent leads a life deeply immersed in explorative practices of self-expression and connection with nature. If she isn't hunting for waves, she's playing music, painting, cooking, writing poetry, and experimenting with taxidermy. Over the past few years, her output has helped define a new generation of paradigmatic Renaissance surfers in Australia through unbending fidelity to play, creativity, and staying true to oneself—in the water and out of it. In this episode, Vincent talks with show host Jamie Brisick about her robust creative sentiment, the importance of losing yourself in the things you love, rediscovering her inner child, tap dancing, her recent injury, rustic living, Indonesia, touring with her band, and cultivating her sense of what it means to be a woman.

Born and raised in Central California, Nate Tyler eschewed the world of competitive surfing in favor of pursuing the path less trodden as a teenager, building a free surfing career defined by a steadfast dedication to filming, traveling, and artistic exploration. His profile rose through the aughts and 2010's, due in no small part to his performances in some of the most cult-classic surf films of the era: Creepy Fingers (2006), BS! (2009), Year Zero (2011), Strange Rumblings in Shangri La (2014), and Psychic Migrations (2015), among others. Alongside surfing, Tyler has cultivated an art practice, producing kinetic sculptures that interrogate the relationship between materiality and movement. In this episode, Tyler sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about life and love off-the-grid, the California crowd factor, surfing in the elements, the Central Coast, how fatherhood has changed him, and the importance of stepping away from the world you know.

A preeminent figure in surf filmmaking, Jack McCoy started surfing when his family moved from Los Angeles to Hawaii in 1954. In the 1970s, he began experimenting with film and photography and, in 1976, released his first film, Tubular Swells, produced and directed with Australian photographer Dick Hoole. What followed was a four-decade run filming, directing, and producing classics of the surf genre—including Storm Riders (1982), Kong's Island (1983), Bunyip Dreaming (1990), The Green Iguana (1992), Sabotaj (1998), The Occumentary (1999), Blue Horizon (2004), Free as a Dog (2006), and A Deeper Shade of Blue (2012)—defined via McCoy's unparalleled water cinematography. In this episode, host Jamie Brisick talks to McCoy about the evolution of surf filmmaking, capturing emotion, mindsurfing his way through hepatitis, traveling, music, and working with a Beatle.

Jack and Mark Occhilupo are hitting the east coast of Australia this May to celebrate the 25th anniversaries of The Occumentary and Occy's 1999 World Title. Jack has remastered the film and it'll be shown on the big screen for the first time ever. You can purchase tickets at jackmccoy.com.

A three-time Maverick's champion and a central figure in Santa Cruz's explosion onto surfing's main stage in the late '90s and early '00s, Darryl Virostko learned to ride big, heavy surf as a kid at Steamer Lane. His introduction to Maverick's, the wave that defined his career, came when it was still considered a myth in surfing circles. His fast success and notoriety within surfing, and the big-wave community especially, engendered a degree of risk-taking, adrenaline-chasing behavior that eventually pushed Virostko into addiction. Clean since 2008, Virostko is now an advocate for the sober community, providing support for people with addiction through his rehabilitation program, FleaHab. In this episode, show host Jamie Brisick travels to Virostko's home in Santa Cruz to talk about how Maverick's changed the big-wave landscape, the power of commitment, lessons learned from his youth, getting clean, death and love, and surfing with range.

Born in Japan to a mother with a profound passion for classical music and a father whose singing and guitar resounded throughout her early childhood, Aska Matsumiya was playing music before she could talk. Allured by her family's player piano as a child, she became a proficient classical pianist by age 3. But after a move to Orange County, California, at 12, Matsuyima was introduced to the haywire world of punk rock. Matsumiya played in punk bands until her early twenties, when she began experimenting with writing her own songs and scoring clips for friends in the fashion industry. Since then, she's composed over 20 films and television soundtracks for directors like Julia Hart and Spike Jonze, networks like HBO, major brands like Audi, as well as collaborated with prolific composers such as Ryuichi Sakamoto. In this episode, Matsumiya and show host Jamie Brisick discuss her creative process, composing for film and television versus the self, her proudest pieces, working with others, her musical inspirations, and the similarities between surfing and making music.

The mastermind behind large-scale production of the surfboard blank, Gordon "Grubby" Clark's pioneering of polyurethane foam in constructing the modern surfboard enabled the progression of surfing as a culture. Enthralled by materials from a young age, Clark received a combined degree in math and physics from Pomona College before working as a glasser at Hobie Surfboards and as an apprentice to Tom Blake, inventor of the surfboard fin, while splitting time between Hawaii and California. When demand for foam boards proliferated across Southern California in the late 1950s, Clark was quick to employ his background toward industrializing and streamlining the production of polyurethane foam blanks, becoming the defining blank maker from the early '60s until Clark Foam's sudden and shocking closure in 2005. Since then, "Grubby" has lived and worked on a sprawling cattle ranch in Oregon, which is where host Jamie Brisick sat down and talked with Clark about the adaptation of modern surfboard design, the intricacies of foam and fiberglass, the value of an education in science, the emergence of computer programming, the shortboard revolution, and why he closed shop.

A molecular scientist with a PhD in marine conservation and sustainability from UC San Diego, Cliff Kapono devotes himself to putting his two greatest passions—science and surfing—into productive conversation. For Kapono, a Native Hawaiian from the Big Island, surfing necessitates meaningful, intimate care for one's environment and is a practice deeply embedded in the familial and social histories that informed his upbringing. Kapono currently serves as an ambassador for the Save the Waves Coalition, a nonprofit that protects surf ecosystems globally, and his environmental activism and study range from microbiome dynamics to coral health. In this episode, Kapono talks with show host Jamie Brisick about surfing as a means of combating trauma, finding one's identity, sublime connection, high-performance surf zones, commodification of the sacred, the nuances of inclusivity, and growing up in Hawaii.

Steve Olson honed his skateboarding expertise sneaking into swimming pools across Southern California while growing up in the 1970s. His skating was wedded to a surf-centric childhood at a time when the crossover between the two was at its height. Olson earned a sponsorship by Santa Cruz Skateboards in 1979 and quickly became notorious for introducing a punk rock aesthetic and cool defiance to the skate scene. He's also lived outside of surf-skate norms as an actor, artist, musician, and father, blending all those interests into a singular personality. In this episode, Olson sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about their first encounters, his contemporary art practice, the art of trespassing, the surf-skate connection, cat-and-mouse thrills, his greatest moments on a skateboard, extreme individualism, and the memories that have stuck with him.

From one of surfing's most accomplished and recognizable families, Coco Ho was raised in the thick of the surf universe on the North Shore of Oahu. As a kid, she quickly gained notoriety as a high-performance surfer in her own right, winning multiple junior titles before eventually joining the Championship Tour while still a teenager, where she posted solid results and year-end rankings for over a decade. Since letting go of competition, she's gone on to design women's wear collections, put on twin-fin clinics, and started her female-centric board brand, while continuing to chase waves. In this episode, Ho and show host Jamie Brisick sit down to talk about her serendipitous thrust into competitive surfing, competing against her brother, friendship, winter on the North Shore, the inevitable overlap between passion and selfishness, functionality, confidence, and her biggest inspirations.

Dubbed "The Animal," Nat Young has spent nearly 60 years as one of surfing's most influential and esteemed figures. At the forefront of surfing's stylistic evolution during the 1960s, Young's victory at the 1966 World Championships in San Diego on his self-shaped "Magic Sam" helped cement Australia's place as a budding progenitor of high-performance surfing. In the decades since, he's maintained iconic status both in surf culture and in his native country, while writing numerous books, making films documenting the era of transformation he helped usher in, traveling the globe to both surfing and non-surfing locales, and continuing to surf—at a masterful level on all manner of craft—at the world-class points near his home. In this episode, Young talks with show host Jamie Brisick about his long and celebrated career, his biggest influences, and the translation of style across generations.

Two-time world champion John John Florence looms large in surfing's landscape. The eldest of three brothers, Florence grew up on the North Shore, where his mom took the family to the beach every day after school. He quickly made a name for himself as a kid, inching his way from bodyboarding the shorebreak to sitting center peak in the lineup at Pipe. His knowledge, talent, and skillset extends beyond the jersey—even beyond the surf, marked recently by his extended trips sailing the open ocean. A paradigm of the waterman's tradition, Florence sits down with show host Jamie Brisick in this episode to talk about the trajectory of his career, staying wholesome, his biggest inspirations, self-optimization, his proudest moments, his complicated relationship to competition, family, synchronicity, and what the future holds.

Keala Kennelly grew up on Kauai in a geodesic dome built by her parents and began surfing at the age of five, a contemporary of the Irons brothers. Through the 1990s and early aughts, she was consistently ranked top ten on the World Tour and was the first woman to tow Teahupoo. She has since pursued successful careers in both acting and music. Kennelly's life has been also defined by her pushing both physical and social limitations, from her fighting for women's representation in heavy surf to her coming out during a time when that meant detrimental ramifications to her surfing career. In this episode, Kennelly talks with show host Jamie Brisick about being an early advocate for the LGBTQ+ surfing community, what it meant to be one of the few women in the lineup, how the attitudes have changed, losing her sponsors, giving up her spot on tour to work as an actress for David Milch, fighting for equal pay, and her invite to the Eddie, and her DJ career.

His father an olympic diver from Hungary, his mother a professional water skier, Brad Gerlach drew inspiration and drive from his parents' athletic accomplishments and competitive mentality. He gripped professional surfing by the horns in 1985, when, as a rookie on the tour, he took out the tour's major players to emerge victorious at that year's Stubby's Pro. Victories continued to color Gerlach's early career, culminating in his finishing second in the world in 1991. He eventually grew disillusioned with competitive surfing and focused his efforts on big-wave surfing and chasing swells around the globe, where he saw more fruitful possibilities for personal growth, self-expression, and freedom. He's also worked as an actor, teacher, founder, and coach. In this episode, Gerlach sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about the road to realizing one's dreams, unlocking potential, his proudest year, Wave Ki and his fitness philosophy, and fame.

Surfer, artist, and filmmaker Thomas Campbell's unique perspective was informed by upbringing in Dana Point, California, his background as a skateboarder, and his experience serving as editor of Skateboarder magazine in the 1990s. His films The Seedling (1999), Sprout (2004), and The Present (2009), which function loosely as a trilogy, aestheticize surfing on the basis of its inherent capacity for playfulness, beauty, and style, standing in contrast to a society increasingly dominated by industry and consumption. Today, Campbell continues to work as a practicing filmmaker, artist, and producer, and is currently preparing for an upcoming solo exhibition at Utah Museum of Contemporary Art. In this episode, Campbell sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about the divergent cultural possibilities between surfing and skating, the importance of having a strong work ethic, being driven by curiosity, the surfing industrial complex, and finding creativity in quietude.

One of the shortboard revolution's seminal figures and a Pipeline pioneer, Jock Sutherland hails from a family of watermen: His mother swam the northern coast of the island of Molokai, a journey which she later detailed in her 1978 book, Paddling My Own. His father, a World War II navy officer, was a seasoned kayaker, fisherman, and surfer. Sutherland and his family moved to Hawaii from Long Beach, California in 1952, where he learned to surf on one of his father's old planks. He began riding for Greg Noll as a teenager, and went on to place second at both the 1965 Makaha International Junior Surfing Championships and the Ocean Beach World Contest in 1966. In 1967, he won the Duke Invitational. In 1969, he won Surfer magazine's Surfer of the Year award. In 1970, he left surfing to join the US Army at the height of Vietnam. At 74, surfing remains an integral part of Sutherland's day to day life. In this episode of Soundings, Sutherland sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about turning points in surfing's evolution, living with Jeff Hakman in Maui, the psychedelic resurgence, why he enlisted in the Army, being incarcerated for drug smuggling, myth-busting, and Waimea's mechanics.

Journalist and author Michael Scott Moore's interest in piracy emerged from research conducted for his first novel, 2010's Sweetness and Blood, which traces the history and spread of surfing from pre-colonial Hawaii to the rest of the world. His interest in the issue spiked when a trial of ten Somali pirates began in Germany in 2010—the first time in 400 years that pirates had appeared in a European court. As the trial ran on, Moore became set on researching piracy outside the confines of a western judicial system, leading him to travel to Somalia in 2011, funded by a crisis reporting grant provided by the Pulitzer Foundation. In January of 2012, he was taken hostage by a local pirate group in Galkayo, and remained captive for more than two years. In this episode, Moore talks with show host Jamie Brisick about the devolution of hope into fatalism, the importance of remembering trauma, stoicism, his memoir The Desert and the Sea (2018), and learning to live with what you have.

From Kamakura, Japan, Takuji Masuda has been a progenitor of surf culture since the 1980s. After traveling the surfing world and competing professionally with the Oxbow Longboard team, whose members included Joel Tudor, Duane Desoto, and others, Masuda pursued an interest in storytelling and cultural production. In the 1990s, through his reverence of surf and skate magazines and inspiration from the booming technological innovations of the era, he established his own magazine, Super X Media, published in English, Japanese, and French, influential as a cross-cultural hub for the surf-skate industry. Masuda more recently pursued filmmaking, including his documentary 2016 film Bunker77. In this episode, he sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about how surfing allows you to design a lifestyle that reflects who you are, the fashion industry, art and culture in Los Angeles, Pipeline, what drew him to the Bunker Spreckels story, and the joy of making friends through surfing.

The oldest of three brothers, all with prodigious surfing talent, Chris Malloy grew up riding waves between Point Conception and Point Mugu, where he learned how to navigate its competitive lineups. By the early 1990s, he was a core member of the Momentum Generation. An injury, however, forced him into the role of observer and ignited a career in filmmaking, resulting in projects like Thicker Than Water (2000), The September Sessions (2002), A Brokedown Melody (2004), One Track Mind (2008), 180 Degrees South (2010), and The Fisherman's Son (2015). He's also done work for brands like Ford and Chevy and Dodge, currently serves as a Patagonia Ambassador, and operates a working ranch not far from where he grew up. In this episode, Malloy sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about his surf odyssey and the highlights of his career, California, the dichotomy between being a bubble-gum pro and traveling missionary, longevity, the importance of immersing oneself in one's environment, Indo trips with Tom Carroll and Kelly Slater, and maintaining a sense of play in life.

Born in Barbados and raised between Hawaii and California, the late Ashley Bickerton was a surfer, thinker, and artist whose mixed-media practice explored themes of identity and meaning, often critiquing consumerism, modernity, and social communication. He achieved early success in New York in the 1980s, alongside the likes of Jeff Koons and Peter Halley. In 1993, Bickerton abandoned the New York scene to return to surfing in Bali, where exercised a devotion to left-handed barrels. He also found in Bali expression for his work, through an increasingly characteristic use of bright colors. In the wake of what would come to be a fatal ALS diagnosis, Bickerton, prior to his passing in November 2022, spoke with show host Jamie Brisick about love, his recent New York exhibitions, the value of resolution, the evolution of the art world's relationship to surfing, his art-making philosophy, and his biggest inspirations.

When Selema Masekela, storyteller and son of South African jazz musician Hugh Masekela, moved to Carlsbad in high school, surfing became his doctrine. He spent years working odd-jobs to fund his habit until he began producing and commentating for Transworld Skate, before he found his calling as an action-sports commentator and storyteller, using his voice to broaden the scope of representation in sport on an international scale. In this episode, Masekela talks with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about the crossover between surf, skate, and snowboard culture, recounting his exploration of Africa's rich surfing history in his book AFROSURF, finding common ground through music and surfing alike, visiting South Africa after Mandela's release in 1990, fitness, and his father's legacy.

Lisa Andersen's surf story began in the mid 1980s, at age fifteen, in her Florida hometown, where surfing—especially women's surfing—was an underground endeavor. She soon ran away from home and wound up in Huntington Beach, California. By the turn of the decade, she was a professional surfer, turning heads with an elegant and aggressive style that stood out among the ranks of both genders, and changed the way women's surfing was perceived. By the turn of the next, she was an icon: a four-time world champion and the face of a multi-million dollar brand and industry. In this episode, Andersen sits down with show host Jamie Brisick to talk about self-worth, how motherhood has informed the way she carries herself as an athlete, marketability and it's challenges, fear of the unknown, her role in the creation of an industry, reinventing surfing for herself, and what the future of women's surfing holds.

Hawaiian stylist Gerry Lopez couldn't make a takeoff during his first time surfing Pipe in 1963 at age 13. Today, at 74, he is still widely known as Mr. Pipeline, after having devoted most of his life to the infamous patch of reef. His approach is the expression of a life lived in pursuit of stillness, mindfulness, and regard for the natural world. Sixty years after that inaugural and fateful session at "The Pipeline," Lopez sits down to talk with show host Jamie Brisick about the importance of having a meditative state of mind in and out of the water, the moment Pipeline clicked for him, why he doesn't remember many of his waves, the relationship between yoga and surfing, and pathways to a higher consciousness.

On stepping off the world tour, grief, finding solace in competitive surfing, and dealing with the aftermath of his near-shark attack at J-Bay.

On purism and art making, punk, surf culture, misheard song lyrics, art world disenchantment, what keeps him going as an artist, and Black Flag.

On the Gidget enterprise, surfing Malibu in the 1950s, feminism, Malibu's cachet among the Hollywood intelligentsia, the beach, and boys.

The South African on Cape Town's surf landscape, stepping away from competition, his film endeavors, and finding the freedom to be oneself.

The '88 world champ on anarchy, his childhood at Whale Beach, hitch-hiking, method-acting as an athlete, and being disciplined in the pursuit of your dreams.

The California native on the Malibu parking lot scene, the Noosa wave that changed her life, harmonic resonance, walking away from her fifteen-year Roxy sponsorship, Malibu's perfect wave, her surfing influences, and the lessons she learned from Donald Takayama.

Outdoorsman, self-taught blacksmith, and Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard never wanted to be a businessman. Rather, it was from his desire to innovate, change the status quo, and protect the environment that Patagonia was born. A craftsman to the core, Chouinard started applying industrial design principles to making outdoor-clothing as a blacksmith shortly after high school. His recent decision to transfer all of Patagonia's voting stock to the Patagonia Purpose Trust and all of the company's excess profits to the Holdfast Collective, a non-profit devoted to addressing climate change, sets a precedent for a new form of capitalism in America—one that considers quality and social impact over excess and consumption. Chouinard sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about the value of problem solving using principles of industrial science, environmentalism, what inspired his game-changing business decision, invention versus innovation, what marketing means to him, and his heroes.

For loggers, jiu-jitsu practitioners, and the international surfing community at large, the name Tudor rings loudly. The youngest surfer to ever win an ASP event, Joel Tudor has gone on to win world titles in 1998, 2004, and 2021. His foray into jiu-jitsu began during a hiatus from competitive surfing after the birth of his son, Tosh. He quickly progressed in the sport with a characteristically nimble athleticism and began winning competitions world-wide. A father, surfer, and fighter, the San Diego native sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about the nature of performance in competitive surfing and jiu-jitsu alike, why he first gravitated toward logs instead of thrusters, making a name for himself in Hawaii, and his new surfboard factory.

The stylist on his foray into professional surfing, his proudest moments, commercialism, The Search, the California waves that shaped him, surfboard design, and his biggest inspirations.

Santa Barbara-native Tom Curren championed athleticism in surfing with his emergence on the ASP World Tour in 1983. Highly regarded for his humility and integrity, Curren has served as one of the most inspirational figures in the surfing community. On the 25th anniversary year of his film Searching for Tom Curren, Tom sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about his infamous double-pump bottom turn, music, and releasing himself from the confines of competition after winning back-to-back world titles.

The magnetic freesurfer on manifestation, picking reef out of his teeth, hanging with Tom Curren, surfing IQ and the tour education, music, transitioning from landing airs at his home break to surfing big waves, and growing up as part of the Ho surfing dynasty.

For Mason Ho, surfing has been a source of happiness since before he can remember. Son of professional surfer Michael Ho, brother to Coco, and nephew of World Champion Derek Ho, Mason has made a name for himself through his playful style, big personality, and seeing waves where others don't. Ho sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about the role music plays in his surfing, the virtue of patience, and striking the balance between fun, intention, and drive in order to be successful.

The Fletcher family matriarch on what fuels her endlessly-inspired disposition, watching her sons pit themselves against nature, the virtues of being fearless, challenging social norms, and what excites her about technology.

Dibi Fletcher, the self-described progenitor of a "gene pool of cool," has mastered living life to the fullest. An artist, writer, and entrepreneur, her vivacity, lust for freedom, and go for broke mentality has fueled both her own and her sons' enduring desire to push the envelope. Dibi's refusal to be constricted by societal norms has enabled her to engage with the world as a sphere of endless opportunity. In this episode of Soundings, Dibi talks with Jamie Brisick about the (d)evolution of surfing from countercultural lifestyle to mainstream sport, the influence of technology on Astrodeck and the metaverse, and the virtues of coming face to face with your own mortality.

The charger on the dance between grief and greatness, the evolution of professional surfing, nonconformity, and his heaven-sent wave at Teahupoo.

In a family of world-renowned surfers, Nathan Fletcher was fated to push limits. His fire for big waves and airs have established him as a leading innovator within the sport. In this episode, he discusses the secrets to aging gracefully as a professional athlete, what drives him in heavy water, how motocross and skating have helped him assess both pain and risk, and the precarious tension between living in the moment and finding who you are.

The bestselling author on self-discovery, escaping your roots, the multifarious ways in which we relate to the world around us, the surf-travel connection, freedom, and working in the service of your passion.

Paul Theroux is an established travel writer and novelist residing on the North Shore of Oahu. Author of numerous acclaimed works such as The Great Railway Bazaar and The Mosquito Coast, Theroux's stories are imbued with the virtues of globetrotting and self-discovery. As a child, Theroux recalls fantasizing about the distant worlds he read about in books—destinations of possibility that contrasted to his tribalistic upbringing as one of seven children in a small New England town. Theroux joined the Peace Corps in 1963 and began teaching in Malawi. In this episode, he sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about what influenced his birth as a writer, the importance of grasping and respecting the nuances of your surroundings on land and at sea, and the relationship between place and self-discovery.

The waterman on "designing danger" as a Hollywood stuntman, eschewing labels, training for wipeouts, the aloha spirit, the visceral connection between fear and enlightenment, and his family's Westside legacy.

Brian Keaulana is an esteemed lifesaver and surfer who has been an irreplaceable advocate for the importance of life-saving skills and ocean-education within the surfing community. Son of renowned surfer and lifesaver Buffalo Keaulana and brother of three-time ASP World Longboard champion Rusty, Brian has understood the importance of living in symbiosis with his surroundings from a young age, starting with getting in the water with his father at just three months old. In this episode, he discusses his family's legacy, Hollywood, survival, and the power of storytelling as a vehicle for cross-cultural communication.

The bassist for rock band Pixies on the surf-music connection, minimalism, the symbiosis between growth and tragedy, and finding forms of expression—on stage and in the water.

Argentine-American Paz Lenchantin is both a musician and a surfer. Throughout her music career, she's held positions in popular alternative-rock bands such as A Perfect Circle, The Entrance Band, Silver Jews, and, most notably, Pixies. Hailing from a family of classical musicians, Lenchantin's love for playing bass went hand in hand with a certain sense of rebelliousness. In this episode, she sits down with Jamie Brisick to talk about the relationship between music and surfing, and the role rhythm plays in structuring our relationships to the surrounding world.

The most accomplished surfer ever on omens, the virtues of being vulnerable, his odyssey through fame, what the future looks like in midlife, and where to find inspiration after redefining the pinnacles of performance.

Kelly Slater's competitive nature, sheer athleticism, and grace under pressure have won him 11 world titles. Now, at 50, he opens up to Jamie Brisick about the key ingredients for success and how his professional surfing career and life in the public eye have come to shape his understanding of happiness.

The Beastie Boy talks with Jamie Brisick about how he found his way to surfing, life on the road, improvisation, and risk-taking in creative endeavors, the making of "Sabotage," and more. Produced by Jonathan Shifflett. Music by Little Wings.